The Shop I currently have the engine being worked on has used Clevite 77 bearings for as long as they could remember and never had one fail. They do High Performance BuildS, Marine Engines, etc.... you name it they have done it. They are very experienced and also a very respected shop. I pretty much trust what they have to say as they have been in the business for a very long time. I have taken two other engines to them and both are running strong, one being my Younger Brothers G54B Turbo Motor for his Starion. They are machining my parts for performance and longevity. I am still going with Clevite though as that is what they recommend. They are checking clearances and making sure everything is within spec...... If I ever find a Piston/Rod combo available right now. I am loosing faith in Wiseco/K1. The Date keeps getting pushed back!
FS-DE Oil System
- Thread starter MP3racer
- Start date
dacquesta1
Member
- :
- 2000 Mazda Protege ES
i just picked up the last set of k1 long rods and wiseco long rod pistons that were around...i also went with the acl bearings. ive heard a lot of bad things about the clevite 77's. just dumped over 4500 in parts for my forged motor and a g15 trans. not trusting clevite
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
Just cause you're not running Clevite's miguel does not make them bad.
The fact that you think TOGA bearings are better than ACL's scares me... (eyeballs)
The fact that you think TOGA bearings are better than ACL's scares me... (eyeballs)
Mazdaspeed2oo35
600whp - 600wtq at 30 PSI
Im not running them now, I did before and i dont like them at all. Im not saying they suck i just didnt have good luck with them on. I rather to use something else Maxx.. What works for me doesnt necesary needs to work for others and vice versa..
Signature Sound
Banned
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- stock G15
I have about 3,000 miles on the new pump and everything looks great on the filter. I have a stainless steel mesh washable filter that makes it easy to see if there is any metal/ garbage in the system. My pressure is still consistent to its initial setting. What a great upgrade!!!
Tom: How many races on average before you guys have to change your pump? What is the failure within the pump when you do?
Tom: How many races on average before you guys have to change your pump? What is the failure within the pump when you do?
Mazdaspeed2oo35
600whp - 600wtq at 30 PSI
That's awesome i can't wait to put mine in and adjust it! So no more oil starvation!!!
Signature Sound
Banned
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- stock G15
You CANNOT run this system without a gauge!!! Please don't even try to prove me wrong. The PRV does not come preset and there is no other way of knowing what your pressure is unless you have a gauge.
At idle and warmed up my pressure is a steady 12psi. At 3000 rpm its at 40psi. Not too sure over that. Gotta keep the eyeballs in front LOL.
js_protege_03dx
Member
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- 2003 mazda protege dx
if it does not come preset the how do i set it?? on a cold start what should it be at? and if u turn it left it will turn the psi down and vise versa for if u turn it to the right??
i will be crankin up the car with all the forged goodies in 2 weeks!!!
i will be crankin up the car with all the forged goodies in 2 weeks!!!
Yeah I just started mine up this weekend. Started first try (w/ Doc B system and turbo) I was wondering the same thing. I read 80psi when I first started the car, and it gradually came to rest at about 20psi @ idle. I haven't had a chance to drive her around and tune, but when I do, whats the best way to adjust the oil pressure. Should I hit a certain pressure at idle, or is it more important to monitor the pressure at a higher RPM. Or a combination? And +1 on which way to turn the adjuster?
From what I have read the pressure should be linear, once set, thats it. Rule of thumb from reading was 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM but you set it where you want it to your liking.
Let me be blunt here in saying, I hope members here know why they are using this system. This is not a normal mod you can buy anywhere. This is completely custom. You have your engines oil psi at your fingertips here meaning you have to set it. And yes a Oil PSI Gauge is highly recommended and I would say required!
Let me be blunt here in saying, I hope members here know why they are using this system. This is not a normal mod you can buy anywhere. This is completely custom. You have your engines oil psi at your fingertips here meaning you have to set it. And yes a Oil PSI Gauge is highly recommended and I would say required!
Signature Sound
Banned
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- stock G15
Your bearing clearances were hopefully set by your builder for the purpose you plan on using the car. If you are daily driving, you can go for 10 pounds per 1000 rpm. For racing you want to be a little higher at 12 to 14 per 1000 rpm. You first set the pressure at cold start up to be around 20 and let it warm up with just idle. When you get to full temperature your fans should be kicking on. That's when you set it to where you need it. Give the car a few revs in small amounts going higher each time to verify pressure climb. IF YOU DONT HAVE PRESSURE DONT RUN THE MOTOR! obvious I know. If you want to go lower pressure turn the screw counter clockwise. To go higher tighten by going clockwise. The plunger inside restricts flow the tighter you go raising pressure. Flow will have good cooling properties while pressure ensures top end components get what they need. Pressure also gets the squeeze into bearings. This is why you must run the right oil for the right tolerances for the right pressure. Again this is a system.
Will do !
Is anyone on these forums running the external PRV with a sandwich plate adapter as opposed to the oil filter relocation kit?
I know some expressed concern that the sandwich plate might impede the flow a bit..... just curious if anyone has experience with it.
I know some expressed concern that the sandwich plate might impede the flow a bit..... just curious if anyone has experience with it.
Signature Sound
Banned
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- stock G15
Sorry I cant speak from experience, but I personally would not recommend it. Think about the size of the fittings on the sandwich plate. They are made for sensors... WAY too small. The pump is able to kick out enough pressure to make my AN-12 lines flow with no problems and much more room to go. Thats 3/4" lines versus the what? 1/8" or 1/4" npt? It just wouldnt be worth doing if you went that route. Besides, they could not have picked a worse place for the oil filter on our car. You want to relocate it regardless!
