FS-DE Oil System

Well one of your oldest kids will be graduating to a dyno soon. My pump is still putting out consistent pressure. I put a ton of miles on it and each oil change is briefly inspected. Since it all seems reliable now, I have no worries about putting down some good numbers. Thanks a million for helping us all out with what used to be huge problem. You rock Tom!


Het Sig...good to hear from you too!!

Great to hear the pump keeps on pumpin'!!

I'm glad that some development we did to get our motors "raceworthy" has been able to be applied to the Mazda community with good results. A number of blocks gave of themselves during the development to get to where we are now.....

If you guys need any help with other issues just shout...

No problem to post the pics here....I'm looking forward to them myself!
 
Going to try and install my system this weekend actually. Wish me luck.
By the way. I planned on following the how-to on camshaft replacement in order to have a step by step for removing the timing belt. Are there any steps I can omit from that (other than the actual camshaft replacement obviously). And also, what are the key steps for installing the pump itself?
Anyone have a simple step by step description. I don't have any materials in front of me cause I'm at work. But tonight I was going to put together a list of steps based on the shop manual.
 
So the "gel type lubricant" that we need to coat this inside of the pump body..whats a good product for this? This may sound dumb, but can I just use vasoline, or is there a good product I can easily find in autozone/homedepot?
 
So the "gel type lubricant" that we need to coat this inside of the pump body..whats a good product for this? This may sound dumb, but can I just use vasoline, or is there a good product I can easily find in autozone/homedepot?

A thick moly grease will work great.
 
http://
current set- up/ mock up
http:// mazda6 brakes

http://

Only half of the new setup.... The block is at the builders waiting on pistons and rods! Damn that back order! I need to order injectors, oil psi gauge, Gt3071r turbo and new management system

THANKS DOC FOR LETTIN ME POST PICS!
 
So the "gel type lubricant" that we need to coat this inside of the pump body..whats a good product for this? This may sound dumb, but can I just use vasoline, or is there a good product I can easily find in autozone/homedepot?


Vasoline works great! That is what we use at the shop....just can't put it in the instruction sheet without their ok...


Pack the entire pump cavity and outlet. This will allow the pump to create suction immediately.
 
Pack the entire pump cavity and outlet. This will allow the pump to create suction immediately.

Awesome, this is exactly what I did, and I was a little nervous about it.

Pump is on. Filter is relocated. Timing was a bit tricky, but it seems like I got everything lined up okay after about three tries. Still have to build the lines. I tried to get the AN fitting welded to the rear side of the MBSP but I realized afterwards that the spot I got it welded was the worst possible location, where the drive axle bracket is.... so I'm delayed another week trying to get the fitting welded to a different location for the return line.

For future reference -- Don't be like me... mock up the location for the fitting prior to getting it welded if you're going with the MBSP instead of the oil pan. There's not very much space on the rear side.
 
Quick question and this may have been covered but am I going to have to run an additional line to the MBSP for the PRV or can it be Y'd into the Turbo Oil Return line on the MBSP? Just a thought. If not I guess I will have to do as richs970.

edit:
I just noticed I can run the line to the pan as well with a bung welded to it.
 
Last edited:
Quick question and this may have been covered but am I going to have to run an additional line to the MBSP for the PRV or can it be Y'd into the Turbo Oil Return line on the MBSP? Just a thought. If not I guess I will have to do as richs970.

edit:
I just noticed I can run the line to the pan as well with a bung welded to it.


Yes, it is better to have separate lines for returns on both the turbo and the PRV as each can have a significant amount in the return line at various times which can create a back-up if using a shared line.
 
So if we buy the external bypass valve you will still rebuild and coat our old oil pump for additional $10 right? Or is that deal over?
 
So if we buy the external bypass valve you will still rebuild and coat our old oil pump for additional $10 right? Or is that deal over?

What deal is this?!?! It's $100 for the pump rebuild and an additional $130 for the external regulator last time I checked.
 
Oh ok, I'm not sure what I was reading then LOL. So it's $230 for rebuilding an oil pump and external bypass valve?
 
So the oil system upgrade is almost done. I'm doing this along with my turbo system so I haven't started her up yet, but so far so good. Here are some pictures...

Below: Shot of the Oil pump with the timing belt, harmonic balancer, and plastic covers removed. Basically you can follow the how to on camshaft replacement to get to this point (obv don't remove your camshafts).
DSCF0005.jpg


Below: Shot of the new oil pump about to go in. You have to pack the pump with a gel type pre-lube whit Doc B explains in the instructions. I used Vaseline. I'm sure there are other types. That dark ring inside the oil pump is the oil seal. It's important to get one of these (I forgot and had to get it the day of, luckily Advanced had two) I had a lot of problems getting the seal to go in. You need to apply as even pressure as possible or else it bends/breaks/doesn't f'ing fit right), I used a metal socket.
DSCF0009.jpg

DSCF0010.jpg


Below: This is where I relocated the oil filter. Pretty standard place. There is a good amount of room to comfortably pull the filter out towards the passenger side. Careful with the aim of the fittings tho so that the fittings and line squeeze by those various lines.
CIMG1974.jpg


Below: Mounting the PRV on the top of the IM utilizing a couple of those boltholes and some long 60mm bolts with spacers. Those bolts are the standard M6 x 1.0, but 60mm was kinda hard to find. The VICS and VTCS signal connectors miss the strut bar and all of that (it is only mocked up right now since my turbo build is underway).
Turbo%20Build


Below: Adapter Plate on the back of the block. Having some issues getting that to fit nicely with the Turbo Oil lines that T in to the block right next to it, but it'll work.
CIMG1976.jpg


Below: Ok so this is a shot from under the car. Top of the picture is the trunk side. Those two large holes in the transmission bell housing had to be drilled. A few things about this:
1. They have to be big enough to extract the 10mm bolt with a 6" extension I think. I had to use 1/4" drive stuff to get it in there, not just any old socket will fit depending on the hold you drill.
2. There is definitely things to watch out for in there. Towards the transmission side there is a large gear (you can see the teeth in the hole towards the top of the photo. Didn't take the time to look up what it was, but don't hit it. It also has bolt heads sticking out of the flat face of the gear, which can get in the way of extracting the 10mm bolt if it's turned at the right angle. You can push it out of the way, which is what I did, but be sure it does now screw up your timing.
DSCF0006.jpg


It's also good to note, that you should mock up the oil pump without liquid gasket on it first. I didn't, and it was a biatch. There are two flat sides on the crankshaft that have to be matched with the flat sides on the inside of the pump, locate these before attempting to put it on.

Also, when putting on the pump, it's good to have another set of hands because the oil seal likes to flip over and get crunched by the crankshaft in certain areas. Someone should be standing by ready to guide the troubled areas.

Get an impact drill!

That's all I've got for now. Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

New Threads and Articles

Back