FS-DE Oil System

[richs970]

Oh! I almost forgot the most important thing. I tried to get a bung welded to the back of the MBSP for the return line. Like and idiot, I didn't do a final mock up, I just took a quick look and rush out to get it welded. Turns out I got it welded right in front of the drive axle bracket, in the worst possible place. Now I have to go back to the fabricator that welded it for me, and try and find a new spot to weld it. There isn't much space on the back of the MBSP, so choose wisely.

I'm thinking about keeping it where it is, and tryin to angle it down, to clear the bracket. The pressure head from the line above should be enough so that the oil drains freely. Otherwise I may just go to the oil pan....

 

[big Lou]

Oh! I almost forgot the most important thing. I tried to get a bung welded to the back of the MBSP for the return line. Like and idiot, I didn't do a final mock up, I just took a quick look and rush out to get it welded. Turns out I got it welded right in front of the drive axle bracket, in the worst possible place. Now I have to go back to the fabricator that welded it for me, and try and find a new spot to weld it. There isn't much space on the back of the MBSP, so choose wisely.

I'm thinking about keeping it where it is, and tryin to angle it down, to clear the bracket. The pressure head from the line above should be enough so that the oil drains freely. Otherwise I may just go to the oil pan....

Haha i did the exact same thing! im going with the pan spot!

 

[MP3racer]

Just remember if you do weld the bung to the back side of the oil pan to place a diverter over the inside of the opening into the pan to keep oil from back-flowing up into the hose under hard acceleration.

The pieces similar to angle iron welded to the inside of the pan are the diverters for the turbo drain and the external PRV bypass drain

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

good picks rich!

 

[big Lou]

Will do Doc!

 

[DarkAngel]

^^^^^(cool)

 

[Signature Sound]

i get a ton of pm's asking about installation parts, hoses, fitttings and etc. here is a list for everyone to BASE off. i have a totally different set-up and this is NOT a list of what i have. i chose to use AN-12 lines for more capacity, but i also had to get BPT fittings to make it work. yes it was more expensive and a pain in the a$$, but it works great.

oil filter relocation kit ebay item# 330431388141
oil pressure gauge and sending unit ebay item# 270357091470
oil pump ebay item# 130328449925
stainless steel braided lines approx 15 to 20ft ebay item# 230397537751
4 pcs. AN-10 straight flare fitting sumitt racing part# SUM-220090B
4 pcs. AN-10 45 degree flare fitting sumitt racing part# SUM-220086B
2 pcs. AN-10 90 degree flare fitting sumitt racing part# SUM-220087B
oil cooler (Setrab is the best brand for the money) ebay item# 270575771116
FRAM part# PH8A oil filter (AutoZone or WalMart)

if the ebay item number is expired by now, then just do a search. at least you have an idea for what parts are needed for install. the PH8A oil filter is HUGE and probably one of the cheapest out there. even autozone had it for only $3!

i really hope this helps and doesnt cause confusion.

 

[DarkAngel]

richs970, sent you a PM.

 

[richs970]

Had the bung relocated this weekend. It's not as close to the belt as it looks in this picture. It's actually a decent spot considering I didn't want to go into my rusty old oil pan.

 

[DarkAngel]

Not a bad spot. I have thought about mounting the return line there for the PRV but I had second thoughts about it because of the belts. Is there enough clearance with the axle too? What parts did you use that were welded to the MBSP? I have an extra MBSP which I will mimick mine for my brothers P5 if he decides to build his as well.

I can safely assume your bungs are on the oilpan as I can see on the above picture. Clearance ok with yours? I can see the axle and axle shaft are close to the MBSP but not as much to the pan.

 

[richs970]

The axle is really close to the rear face of the MBSP, so there is pretty much no place to mount it on that side. The end that I'm on seems ok. I'll take some more pics when I run the return line this weekend.

I just had a aluminum weld-in bung from jegs welded in (http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/800-8208/10002/-1). The guy did a really nice job too. Far Beyond Fabricating in Bayville, NJ. If anyone's around there, this guy can take care of almost any custom fabricating or welding.

 

[DarkAngel]

Building an engine requires several factors to be evaluated. One of the most important factors we have found is the engine bearing clearance. The Mazda mains are available in various sizes (thicknesses) to enable us to get the clearance numbers we found to work. To get these specific clearances you need to pick the bearing thickness for each journal according to the crankshaft journal diameter for that specific journal.

The Mazda rod bearings do not come in various bearing thicknesses to allow the same choice. Also, in a forced induction motor the rods take quite a beating from the higher combustion pressures. Therefore, we went with the Clevite racing rod bearings which do have a few thicknesses available. The other way to do this is to have your crankshaft cut to a specific undercut size and use +10 bearings. However, this is even more expensive and it is hard to find a machine shop that has that level of a preciscion crankshaft grinder.

This type of precision engine building is the norm for most racing motors whether they be 250 hp or 400hp.

Interesting you mentioned +10 Bearings on the crank as that is what my shop is doing. They redid my crank and are balancing it as well. Rebuild Shop is going with Clevite as well.

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

Interesting you mentioned +10 Bearings on the crank as that is what my shop is doing. They redid my crank and are balancing it as well. Rebuild Shop is going with Clevite as well.

An honest Advice.. Don't use Clevite Bearings they are no better than Mazda OEM.. Go with ACL Duraglide Race bearings even tho your not going to race the car those are the best bearings out there to basically any car. I had Clevite 77 before and i wish i didn't used them....

 

[Maxx Mazda]

An honest Advice.. Don't use Clevite Bearings they are no better than Mazda OEM.. Go with ACL Duraglide Race bearings even tho your not going to race the car those are the best bearings out there to basically any car. I had Clevite 77 before and i wish i didn't used them....

Why? Clevite is a widely trusted brand around the world, used in more professional race engines than any other bearing.

 

[big Lou]

An honest Advice.. Don't use Clevite Bearings they are no better than Mazda OEM.. Go with ACL Duraglide Race bearings even tho your not going to race the car those are the best bearings out there to basically any car. I had Clevite 77 before and i wish i didn't used them....

That's weird my machine shop said that clevite 77's are way better than the duraglides.... and Acl does make a race bearing just not for our cars which indeed are better than the clevites....

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

Why? Clevite is a widely trusted brand around the world, used in more professional race engines than any other bearing.

Well you should know that ACL makes the best bearing for basically any engine... I had Clevite 77 and they were garbage... Ill go with TOGA or ACL before using Clevite ever again..

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

That's weird my machine shop said that clevite 77's are way better than the duraglides.... and Acl does make a race bearing just not for our cars which indeed are better than the clevites....

Well Im running ACL Duraglides 780 and they are infinite better than the previous Clevite 77 i had in the past... I still remember when TBK Performance did my big turbo Upgrade we had to replace the Clevite 77 bearings 2000 miles after, when we removed them they were all crushed and ****** up.. i had to machine my crankshaft and we went with ACL .25mm so far they are great.. but every engine is a whole different story atleast to me Clevite 77 were worse than when i had OEM Mazda bearings...

 

[Alamo1]

We use Clevite in out natural gas engines.... that's pretty much the standard in gas compression.

 

[js_protege_03dx]

ummm im installin the clevite's too for my build.. no build thread yet but workin on it... and so ur sayin that my engine will now **** up cause im using the clevite's??

 

[big Lou]

Well Im running ACL Duraglides 780 and they are infinite better than the previous Clevite 77 i had in the past... I still remember when TBK Performance did my big turbo Upgrade we had to replace the Clevite 77 bearings 2000 miles after, when we removed them they were all crushed and ****** up.. i had to machine my crankshaft and we went with ACL .25mm so far they are great.. but every engine is a whole different story atleast to me Clevite 77 were worse than when i had OEM Mazda bearings...

Miguel i have a lot of respect for you and i also worked at a machine shop... The key word that you used was TBK PERFORMANCE!! Thats why the bearings failed... Improper installation will do that to any part. Also if you read the DOC used stock oem mazda bearings for a few race seasons.....