Alright well it looks like I'm going to go with the Koni shocks, haven't decided on FDS or Sports, I don't know much about it so the idea of someone else messing with the tune on them kind of bothers me. How hard are the sports to tune? Will the back be simple enough that I wouldn't have to worry about the shop making them ride like s*** and having to get them retuned since you can't do it while they are on the car?
Also dumb questions, What is the purpose of the chssis bracing and chamber plates? Please go into a little detail if you can, I have no idea. Thanks
The way you "tune" the shocks is by adjusting the predetermined settings. I'm not sure how many positions they have, but for instance I have KYB AGX on another one of my cars and the fronts are 4 positions and the rears are 8 positions. The rears you turn a knob on the side and the front you spin an adjuster from the top of the shock body, above the strut mount.
Here is the link for the Koni's adjustments...
http://www.koni-na.com/adjustment.cfm
Now I don't know what type of adjustment comes on the MS3 specific koni's, but all of the shocks are already tuned, you just need to pick which setting you want to ride on.
Disregard, here is the directions to adjust the front shocks.
Rebound Adjustment Procedures
Externally Adjustable. These dampers can be adjusted, literally at the turn of a knob, a technique borrowed from Formula-1 racing where KONI dampers have dominated the field for years. One can switch back and forth, in most cases in a matter of seconds, from a comfortable "touring" setting to a more firm setting for a sporty drive. By means of a knob damping forces can be altered to driving conditions or personal preferences.
REBOUND ADJUSTMENT DIRECTION
Clockwise = Softer
Counter Clockwise = Firmer
Here are the instructions for the rear...
Rebound Adjustment Procedures
Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage.
Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly.
Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting.
The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force.
Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns.
Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
ADJUSTING DIRECTION
Clockwise = Firmer
Counter Clockwise = Softer
Now camber plates are to adjust camber, our car doesn't come with adjustable camber, so you would need to add these plates or arms (front or rear) to adjust the camber.
Here is a good reference for suspension setup, toe/caster/camber...
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
The chassis braces are just that, addes braces to the chassis to stiffen it and prevent flexing. I wouldn't recommend them unless you are building a track queen. Our car is very stiff already, maybe it could use some more, but I don't think you'd see much of a difference unless it was pushed to the extremes.
Gmac