Cobb AP Discussion Thread

for those of you that see knock, what brand gasoline do you put in your car? i talked to a tuner a few months back and he recommended sunoco, which is what i used anyways. but i have noticed anytime i filled up anywhere else i would see more counts of knock. other stations he said that were ok were exxon and bp.
 
how the hell do you speed6 guys drive with the AP plugged in, my fatass/size 11s arent really enjoying this port hittin my foot, also afraid to hurt any type of connections. have any of you hardwired the AP into the car? or what did you do to solve this tumor sticking out of the unders.
 
i bought a 90 degree angle obdII extension cable to move the dongle. it was like $12. forget where i bought it though.
 
i have my TSDPBOV in full recirc. is this a big enough difference between stock to want to take it off and put OEM back on for Stage 1 to run properly? im not seeing any problems, just wondering.
 
I only fill at Sunoco, Ultra FTW!

I've never seen an abundance of knock, a random .7 for a 1 sec count here and there but that's about it.
 
how the hell do you speed6 guys drive with the AP plugged in, my fatass/size 11s arent really enjoying this port hittin my foot, also afraid to hurt any type of connections. have any of you hardwired the AP into the car? or what did you do to solve this tumor sticking out of the unders.

i have 13's..never hit it once while driving..bova if u remember where u bought it let us know.. id like to move mine anyways..itll look cleaner.
 
i have been using shell gas .. been seeing KR at part throttle..
funny when i was using 7-11 gas never a problem.. back to 7-11... hahaha...
 
7/11 uses unbranded gas (since it's cheaper) that doesn't have artificial detergents (to make it cheaper). Branded fuels will have various types of detergents aimed at preventinig build-up.

I don't know if that is any way correlated to why you saw knock from a branded fuel versus an unbranded fuel. It could have been a number of factors honestly, like atmosphere or even the condition of the fuel delivery equipment at the different gas stations you went to (i.e. the pump and the tanks that hold the fuel, plus all the lines in between and the filter at the gas pump).
 
You can remove the stock port location by pushing on the 2 tabs on the side. This way you will be able to tuck the AP dongle and port up out of the way of your feet. Use a wire tie to hold it in place. I actually was running exxon 93 for a week. That is the first time I have ever put that in the car. I usually do BP or Shell. No sunoco stations around here.

I have also noticed with this map that when im WOT right after 6 grand I get this hesitation just before redline. I also think im about to blow second gear as many times as im griding with FFS.
 
i did FFS yesterday and it seems smooth as hell to me. maybe i'm just good at feathering the clutch or letting it out quickly but it just seems to be easy to do.
 
I have Launch control and Flat Foot Shifting in my Nova. This feels slightly different (more refined), and overall is easy to do provided you resist the urge to lift your right foot while clutching. It takes a little practice if you aren't used to it.
 
FFS has worked fine in my car. LC seems to be floating a little higher than the setpoint, other than that, everything seems good.
 
FFS has worked fine in my car. LC seems to be floating a little higher than the setpoint, other than that, everything seems good.

I would venture to say that most-likely the stock tach is not entirely accurate throughout the whole rev range.
 
the stock tach does seem to be off from 100-200rpms if you compare to what the AP is showing. but also i did do a log of launch control and it does appear to go a little higher than what you set it at.
 
Does launch control / FFS actually work better or is it just fun to play with?

I enjoy the FFS, but its not something I'll be using all the time. I have yet to actually use launch control.

Right now my LC is at 3800 and FFS at 4500. I think I'm going to drop LC to 3300 and FFS to 3800, and my rev limiter to 6500 as a precaution.
 
I enjoy the FFS, but its not something I'll be using all the time. I have yet to actually use launch control.

Right now my LC is at 3800 and FFS at 4500. I think I'm going to drop LC to 3300 and FFS to 3800, and my rev limiter to 6500 as a precaution.

To answer Coyfish's question, yes, they both absolutely work wonders. During launching, the problem of sometimes lugging down the engine is greatly alleviated and consistency is much improved. You approach your launch at a full, consistent full throttle assuming linear interpolation of clutch disengagement. Flat-foot shifting also benefits from applying the maximum safe throttle over the course of an assumed linear interpolation of clutch disengagement.

In my practice runs, I've found that with my modifications LC works best around 4100, with actual launch revs around 4250 (feathering, of course). During my practicing with FFS, I have discovered that with my powerband stretched to close to 6200, any FFS setting below 5200 isn't really effective. The reason it is unaffective is because the revs do not drop quickly enough to experience that rev level. For users who have lightweight flywheels, you would want to consider that as well... as your revs will drop more quickly than those of us with the stock flywheel.

I have a great deal of experience with LC and FFS as I previously said (on a Nova drag car). This is honestly one of the most-easily customizable and refined systems I've used.
 
Not to mention the notorious 2nd-3rd hesitation and backfiring is eliminated with FFS.
 
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