Chris' Mazdaspeed6 Stereo install log

chuyler1

goes to eleven
:
2013 CX-9
Well folks, its that time again. I've had the speed 6 for a few months and now its time to upgrade the stereo.

Equipment:
Head Unit: Stock Bose (has 2v pre-outs)
Processor: PPI DCX-760 (PEQ/3-way Xover/Time Alignment)
Amps: DLS A5 (85x2 + 300x1) and A8 (40x4)
Highs: LPG 25nfa 1" soft dome tweeters
Mids: Seas CA18RNX 6.5" paper cone woofers
Lows: TBA
RearFill: TBA or not at all

Step 1: Amp rack

The MS6 is advertised to not have folding rear seats. This is not true, the seats fold but there are support braces across the opening which prevent you from passing anything more than a pair of skis or a few 2x4s through it. However, there is an area that is just perfect for installing amps and you'll see over the next few weeks how I plan to use that space. Check out the stock trunk and what's behind the panel to get an idea of what I am working with.

I started by cutting a piece of MDF to replace the factory trunk panel. It is about 18" tall by 43" wide. I fitted this up to the opening and traced the area I had to work with. It comes out like a 6-sided trapazoid-like opening. I squared it off and decided to add curved edges to my opening for the amps. They will have a recessed look with the help of fiberglass (similar to my last install).

Here I am determining a center point so I can use my router with a perfect circle jig to cut a channel in the wood.

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Next I used a 1/2" straight channel bit on the router and with a combination of straight-edge and circle-jig cuts made a channel around the perimiter of where I needed to cut.

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Here I am double checking the fit of my two amps side-by-side. They will fit nicely and there is plenty of room on the bottom for wiring (RCA ends stick out quite a bit...learned that the hard way last time).

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With the channel complete, I used a jig saw to cut all the way through the wood. Then I used a round-over bit to smooth out the edges and provide a lip for stapling the fleece.

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Next I created some 3.5" tall shims to raise the outer trim. Everything was screwed to a scrap board temporarily. These shims and bottom piece will not be part of the final rack.

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Up next, I need to stretch and staple fleece to make up the side of this rack. Then comes fiberglass and bondo. After the first layer I will be able to remove the shims and bottom piece and fiberglass the back side for thickness.
 
I'll second that thought on the table saw. Mine is a rickety piece of junk. Its a craftsman but it just doesn't cut very straight unless you are working with small pieces. Anything larger than a 2x4 sheet of wood and I have to use a circular saw or the router with a straight edge.
 
Too bad you don't live closer. My friend has a complete woodworking shop. But you already know that.
 
I do? Don't remember you telling me. Other than the sawdust I manage. The woodworking part of this project is done for the most part. Now I've got to staple fleece (30 minutes) and fiberglass. However, the weather doesn't look like it will cooperate this weekend.
 
very cool, subs for final result. I want to redo my system, but I am not sure how I'll be going about it.
 
Step 1 Continued: Applying Fleece.

Its still drizzling outside but I tried out my new electric powered staple gun. Woah man it is so much better than my manual swingline...which contrary to Milton's experience jammed way too often.

First I layed fleece down on the bottom of my rack. I didn't get a shot but below the fleece is masking tape. As I mentioned before the bottom piece is only temporary until the glassing is done and I don't want to bind the fleece to the bottom piece.

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Next I secured the amp mounting piece which was cut-out in previous steps. One note on this, I drilled the holes for securing this before detatching the center piece from the outer piece. This ensured that when I fastened it to the bottom piece it would be centered perfectly. Always plan ahead folks.

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Next I stretched the fleece as tight as it would go and used my brandi new staple gun to secure it in place. The routed edge was perfect for lining up the staples. Make sure you keep the staples as close together as possible to prevent the fabric from slipping later on.

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Once the stapling was done, I used a sharp razor blade to cut off the excess fabric. Hold it at an angle and use the routed edge underneath as a guide.

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Here is how it looks with the excess fabric removed.

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And a few test fits with the amps.

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Step 1 continued: Applying Fiberglass Resin

I had about an hour this evening after work so I applied two layers of fiberglass resin to the fleece. I masked off the screws (don't want resin to clog the tops) and masked off the edges to keep the excess resin to a minimum. I should have masked the entire center piece too because I dripped all over it. Oh well...that's what a sander is for. The first layer of resin I gobbed on and made sure it soaked in thoroughly. It took about 16 fl oz. When that cured and cooled down I brushed on another 4 fl oz to smooth out the surface and fill any crevaces. This is primarily so I have more of a base to sand later on before I reach the fleece. I let it cure while my wife and I watched a movie and then was able to remove my rack from the shims and base. Voila, a very light weight amp rack. Ok, Ok, no where near finished. I have to build up the back side for strength and sand/bondo/sand/prime/paint the front. Stay tuned for more updates.

After first layer of resin...

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After second layer of resin, a smooth surface for sanding...

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And after I pulled it from the shims and base...
(sorry it was dark out)

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