Well folks, its that time again. I've had the speed 6 for a few months and now its time to upgrade the stereo.
Equipment:
Head Unit: Stock Bose (has 2v pre-outs)
Processor: PPI DCX-760 (PEQ/3-way Xover/Time Alignment)
Amps: DLS A5 (85x2 + 300x1) and A8 (40x4)
Highs: LPG 25nfa 1" soft dome tweeters
Mids: Seas CA18RNX 6.5" paper cone woofers
Lows: TBA
RearFill: TBA or not at all
Step 1: Amp rack
The MS6 is advertised to not have folding rear seats. This is not true, the seats fold but there are support braces across the opening which prevent you from passing anything more than a pair of skis or a few 2x4s through it. However, there is an area that is just perfect for installing amps and you'll see over the next few weeks how I plan to use that space. Check out the stock trunk and what's behind the panel to get an idea of what I am working with.
I started by cutting a piece of MDF to replace the factory trunk panel. It is about 18" tall by 43" wide. I fitted this up to the opening and traced the area I had to work with. It comes out like a 6-sided trapazoid-like opening. I squared it off and decided to add curved edges to my opening for the amps. They will have a recessed look with the help of fiberglass (similar to my last install).
Here I am determining a center point so I can use my router with a perfect circle jig to cut a channel in the wood.
Next I used a 1/2" straight channel bit on the router and with a combination of straight-edge and circle-jig cuts made a channel around the perimiter of where I needed to cut.
Here I am double checking the fit of my two amps side-by-side. They will fit nicely and there is plenty of room on the bottom for wiring (RCA ends stick out quite a bit...learned that the hard way last time).
With the channel complete, I used a jig saw to cut all the way through the wood. Then I used a round-over bit to smooth out the edges and provide a lip for stapling the fleece.
Next I created some 3.5" tall shims to raise the outer trim. Everything was screwed to a scrap board temporarily. These shims and bottom piece will not be part of the final rack.
Up next, I need to stretch and staple fleece to make up the side of this rack. Then comes fiberglass and bondo. After the first layer I will be able to remove the shims and bottom piece and fiberglass the back side for thickness.
Equipment:
Head Unit: Stock Bose (has 2v pre-outs)
Processor: PPI DCX-760 (PEQ/3-way Xover/Time Alignment)
Amps: DLS A5 (85x2 + 300x1) and A8 (40x4)
Highs: LPG 25nfa 1" soft dome tweeters
Mids: Seas CA18RNX 6.5" paper cone woofers
Lows: TBA
RearFill: TBA or not at all
Step 1: Amp rack
The MS6 is advertised to not have folding rear seats. This is not true, the seats fold but there are support braces across the opening which prevent you from passing anything more than a pair of skis or a few 2x4s through it. However, there is an area that is just perfect for installing amps and you'll see over the next few weeks how I plan to use that space. Check out the stock trunk and what's behind the panel to get an idea of what I am working with.
I started by cutting a piece of MDF to replace the factory trunk panel. It is about 18" tall by 43" wide. I fitted this up to the opening and traced the area I had to work with. It comes out like a 6-sided trapazoid-like opening. I squared it off and decided to add curved edges to my opening for the amps. They will have a recessed look with the help of fiberglass (similar to my last install).
Here I am determining a center point so I can use my router with a perfect circle jig to cut a channel in the wood.

Next I used a 1/2" straight channel bit on the router and with a combination of straight-edge and circle-jig cuts made a channel around the perimiter of where I needed to cut.

Here I am double checking the fit of my two amps side-by-side. They will fit nicely and there is plenty of room on the bottom for wiring (RCA ends stick out quite a bit...learned that the hard way last time).

With the channel complete, I used a jig saw to cut all the way through the wood. Then I used a round-over bit to smooth out the edges and provide a lip for stapling the fleece.

Next I created some 3.5" tall shims to raise the outer trim. Everything was screwed to a scrap board temporarily. These shims and bottom piece will not be part of the final rack.

Up next, I need to stretch and staple fleece to make up the side of this rack. Then comes fiberglass and bondo. After the first layer I will be able to remove the shims and bottom piece and fiberglass the back side for thickness.