BOV help

everyone who has the forge uses the green spring because the smaller black one provided blows off too soon.
 
everyone who has the forge uses the green spring because the smaller black one provided blows off too soon.


(first)
thank you very much ma man! ill be sporting a new forge pretty soon...probably buy the one off your hands in the new weeks if you still have it of course
first few posts here and im already hooked by the hospitality. here i thought mazda forum people were rude...hey better than the bmw forum people hahah
 
ha ha no rush man i just put it up for sale last week, ill do you a favor and try and hold it for you. My fs comes with the black spring installed plus the green spring (next step up) and the yellow spring (higher than stock psi) plus the silicone line to connect to the hotpipe and the intake plug, and three worm clamps with a smooth underside. only thing you should need to buy would be the extra vac line plus the t-fitting to tap into the break booster line (to the left of the check valve that is located on the drivers side of the brake booster line) My suggestion to you is to research the maf relocate and ask a few people on those threads if they think it would work for plastic pipes. then talk to mazdaspeedwerx or any other people who had or have a forge bov about performance when using a dedicated vac line and running the maf relocate (mazdaspeedwerx did not maf relocate, he just ran the bov like I did and put up with the stalling). then talk to people like terbow about the procedure for t-ing into the brake booster line to run your dedicated line for the bov. I would hate for you to buy the bov from me and decide you did not like the setup or not know about the steps needed to make it (or any bov for that matter) work properly
 
thanks mgerst right most likely i'll research a lot more i asked on the MAF relocate thread if relocating it with stock pipes is possible...i dont want to get hard pipes hahah i think tapping into the line is the easy part right? i mean you snip away part of the line and get a t-fit and run the vac line into the brake booster right. That part i can do the bov install i understand now pretty well its now the MAF relocate with stock pipes thats got me worked ahahaha
 
yeah that is the long and short of it for tapping into brake booster line. i picked up a vibrant vac distribution block from another forum member that i will use to tap into brake booster line. dont know if you want to grab one of those but it has six ports on the underside to tap into the vac line and the unused ones are just plugged. not sure where to buy it but im sure there are sites. just a thought. sometimes with those older threads you get a better response from private messaging some of the people on there who posted as they may not be monitoring that thread. let me know if you need anymore help.
 
thanks bro so i talked to terbrow and stock pipes is not the way to go
Basically ive come down to this...buy hard pipes, relocate the MAF, and add the forge where the bvp was.
But he did say "its not a true bov, it half vents. so u shouldnt stall."
which sounds about right...the website does also say it should stall regardless...

man im still very much confused im getting mixed messages hahaha
 
Tell me about it man... I was and am in your boat... confusing what to do. After much research I finally decided on stuff to buy. So I did purchase hardpipes and an HKS BOV... My main purpose was to eliminate the turkey and add a little better performance in the most simple manner. This was the following setup choices I received thru a PM from 505zoom after I selected my products:
There are 3 different ways to set up the system:
1. BOV only. This setup is usually the loudest which a lot of people like, but you can get some stalling issues when you go to neutral. (put the valve wherever you like for this setup)

2. BOV/BPV setup. With this setup, you won't get as much sound out of the HKS, but it generally sounds pretty good. Stalling is either eliminated or greatly reduced over the BOV only setup. (put the valve near the throttle body for this setup)

3. BPV only with upgraded (at least 1") fittings. This is what I run. Not nearly as loud, but the performance is much better. No stalling at all, and the car doesn't go super rich when you make a quick shift. (works best to put the valve on the hotpipe for this setup)

I like knowing that the wooosh is loud with setup #1 but dont want to experience any stalling. So I'm going with setup #2, which seems ideal as it uses the stock BPV, and will in the end eliminate or lower the chances of stalling. Since I'm going with setup #2, I'll be placing my HKS BOV similar to this pic:
dsc00530smaller.jpg


I should have it installed early next week, I'll put some pic's and sound clips as soon as it's complete. Hopefully no more turkey.
 
sweeett phony i will wait till you finish your set up and if its good i'll do the same but with a greddy or some other bov cuz i really dont like the hks sound...
 
thanks bro so i talked to terbrow and stock pipes is not the way to go
Basically ive come down to this...buy hard pipes, relocate the MAF, and add the forge where the bvp was.
But he did say "its not a true bov, it half vents. so u shouldnt stall."
which sounds about right...the website does also say it should stall regardless...

man im still very much confused im getting mixed messages hahaha

which website says it will stall regardless?
 
I guess I am the only one that owns a msp that likes the forge bov. I have never had a problem with it. for the price and ease of installing it works great. I have a fmic with a stand alone ems and I still have not gotten rid of it. I am also useing map instead of maf now. I am going on 4 years with it. the only thing that seperates me from other msp owners is that I have always run 15 psi, that may be why it works so well for me.
 
i liked it i just decided that i wanted to stick to running a bpv. thanks for the help though while i had it
 

New Threads and Articles

Back