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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
well yeah, the belt goes around the tensioner. You HAVE to change the tensioner with the belt off the car.
2013~2016: Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?
- Thread starter Kjstech
- Start date
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Yes. Depending on the mileage, you also want to consider replacing the water pump stretch belt while you’re there. Based on member’s experience, the aftermarket stretch belt will be much tighter than OEM stretch belt, hence it’s much harder to install.
Thanks, I am going to replace the water pump belt (I did write beltS).
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
I could not get the rag method to work to get the stretch belt on. It was indeed a PITA and I think I struggled with it for about an hour. Laying on the floor under the brake rotor wasn't helping. Single zip tie method didn't work, either. It broke every attempt. But I think I did 2 zip ties and that worked.
Do you guys think all this oil can be from the tensioner? Any other common leaks on passenger side of the engine?
I just replaced it together with the serpentine and water pump belt. About 2 hour job, 30 minute of which was cleaning the oil (so I can track if it stopa). If I have to do it again tomorrow- under 1 hr. No special tools required if you have the basics. The OCV solenoid/seal (top of engine head) is also sipping oil - that job is for next weekend.
Also attaching picture of the latest INA tensioner from RockAuto. I noticed the pulley is no longer replacable. Seemed to be snapped on in there vs held by a bolt. Not a big deal but sad to see more of the one time assembly parts. Manufactured May 1st 2021.
I just replaced it together with the serpentine and water pump belt. About 2 hour job, 30 minute of which was cleaning the oil (so I can track if it stopa). If I have to do it again tomorrow- under 1 hr. No special tools required if you have the basics. The OCV solenoid/seal (top of engine head) is also sipping oil - that job is for next weekend.
Also attaching picture of the latest INA tensioner from RockAuto. I noticed the pulley is no longer replacable. Seemed to be snapped on in there vs held by a bolt. Not a big deal but sad to see more of the one time assembly parts. Manufactured May 1st 2021.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
How many miles on your 2013 CX-5 Sport manual? Looks like you have a 2.0L, which will have more room to do the job than a 2.5L.
Do you use aftermarket belts? If you do, what brand? And ever noticed the aftermarket water pump stretch belt is really tight?
The factory belt tensioner on late CX-5’s, such as the one on my 2016 CX-5, all look like the new INA one you got on pulley, production change. Unfortunately revised tensioners from factory are still prone to leak.
Your leak based on pictures can’t be from belt tensioner as the oil in the tensioner is very thick, and not much in there. IMO it most likely is from the valve cover gasket. You want to replace the VCG and OCV、OCV seal at the same time. Here’s a good source to get OEM OCV:
And read this excellent thread by PatrickGSR94 for changing the valve cover gasket and oil control valve:
2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?
The other possibility on oil leak in that area is timing chain cover. There’s a TSB for it, but the job is complicated, and many times the Mazda dealer has to do it a couple of times, but it still leaks.
TSB No.: 01-018/18 OIL SEEPAGE AT ENGINE FRONT COVER
103k, 2.0.
I got the OEM belts - new one made in Mexico, old one Made in France. Very easy to remove water pump (towel) and put it back on (pushing with fingers while spining the crank). Water pump belt doesn't look bad but the serpentine belt was at a danger zone. OCV seal is here, waiting on the OCV solenoid (from Dubai).
I guess if the leak is from somewhere else, drive it as it is with frequent oil checks and dispose of in couple years. So far, not a single drop of oil on the floor allthough there was some on top of the engine under body cover. The oil spots have been there for couple years but I've been ignoring it. I also had warranty work done in 2015 for the oil leak near OCV. I am suspecting improper seal of the head cover as I see some sip on driver from the cover gasket.
I got the OEM belts - new one made in Mexico, old one Made in France. Very easy to remove water pump (towel) and put it back on (pushing with fingers while spining the crank). Water pump belt doesn't look bad but the serpentine belt was at a danger zone. OCV seal is here, waiting on the OCV solenoid (from Dubai).
I guess if the leak is from somewhere else, drive it as it is with frequent oil checks and dispose of in couple years. So far, not a single drop of oil on the floor allthough there was some on top of the engine under body cover. The oil spots have been there for couple years but I've been ignoring it. I also had warranty work done in 2015 for the oil leak near OCV. I am suspecting improper seal of the head cover as I see some sip on driver from the cover gasket.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Since you’re going to replace the oil control valve solenoid and its seal, might as well to replace the old valve cover gasket at the same time at 103K miles. Actually you almost have to replace the VCG since it’s easy to get damaged when you remove the valve cover to replace the OCV.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Must be because of the trade war with much higher import duty from China as the belts from factory and OEM replacements usually are made in China, now they’re from Mexico? I also noticed when I got a bed frame from IKEA recently, it’s now from Mexico. But the same one I bought a couple of years ago was from China with better quality!
I definitely will get OEM belts when it’s time for me, as the OEM water pump belt seems to be proper sized and easier to put on. Just wish mine has the room to work on like your 2.0L.
And please let us know how long does it take for shipping from Dubai by partsouq.com.Once you replaced the VCG and done properly by following the procedure from Mazda Workshop Manual, I believe your oil leak should be gone.
Ordered Tuesday, shipped Wednesday, scheduled to arrive Monday via FedEx. Unbelievable fast.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
I don't think I had that much oil residue on the block before I changed the VC gasket, OCV gasket and OCV itself. I know the oil pan has looked pretty dry every time I've changed the oil, even before I changed that stuff. But I did notice oil still coming out of the OCV after changing both gaskets, so I bit the bullet on the new OCV and no leaks since then.
One thing of note is to follow directions on the liquid sealant used on the new valve cover gasket where it's applied to the top of the timing chain cover and the exhaust cam's rear cap. Use either Mazda OEM sealant, or Permatex Ultra Grey which I'm fairly certain is the exact same thing. They call for installing bolts hand tight after applying the sealant and reassembling parts. Then after about an hour, torque to spec. Then wait as long as possible, up to 24 hours, before putting the parts back in service, i.e. starting the engine.
I've had issues over the years with various gaskets and parts leaking even after resealing, but I never followed that method. I used to always just reassemble, torque to spec and run the engine within minutes. Now that I have followed that exact method on the CX5 valve cover gasket, the transmission pan, and also my Integra's valve cover gasket, I've had ZERO LEAKS now, which is awesome. Makes me want to pull my Miata engine ASAP and reseal everything on it.
One thing of note is to follow directions on the liquid sealant used on the new valve cover gasket where it's applied to the top of the timing chain cover and the exhaust cam's rear cap. Use either Mazda OEM sealant, or Permatex Ultra Grey which I'm fairly certain is the exact same thing. They call for installing bolts hand tight after applying the sealant and reassembling parts. Then after about an hour, torque to spec. Then wait as long as possible, up to 24 hours, before putting the parts back in service, i.e. starting the engine.
I've had issues over the years with various gaskets and parts leaking even after resealing, but I never followed that method. I used to always just reassemble, torque to spec and run the engine within minutes. Now that I have followed that exact method on the CX5 valve cover gasket, the transmission pan, and also my Integra's valve cover gasket, I've had ZERO LEAKS now, which is awesome. Makes me want to pull my Miata engine ASAP and reseal everything on it.
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- 2018 CX-5 Sport
So your tensioner lasted about 64,000 miles. Right?
No, dealer did some work on the OCV (not sure if they replaced just the seal or seal + solenoid) that time. It is leaking bad now.
It is the first time I am replacing the tensioner and unfortunately I forgot to check it's tension before I removed it. But at $45 - it was a no brainer to replace with the belts since it is such a common failure.
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My 2016.5 Mazda CX5 with 35K miles is having this belt tensioner leak issue per my dealer. They are quoting $510 to replace the belt tensioner and the drive belts. Does TSB have any effect on negotiating a better price for this service? Also, should I request them to change anything when they perform this service? Other than replacing the cabin air filter, I am hopeless when it comes to car parts and maintenance, so have no option but to trust the dealer on this leak.
There's no reason for you to be forced to go to a stealership for non-warranty work. Find a good, honest independent shop (ask friends and co-workers who they go to) and get a quote from them. You can get quotes from multiple shops if you're unsure where to go.
Assuming that an indy shop quote is quite a bit lower, give them a shot at doing the work. Then, if you're satisfied with the job they did, continue to use them for all future work and put that stealershop in the rear view mirror permanently.
What edmaz said. The $510 price quoted is outrageous. Four years ago my dealer quoted $450 for the same job. I bought a Mazda OEM tensioner online for about $100 and changed it myself as have other members on here. The belts were in great shape at 29,000 miles. It's not that hard of a job and a shop with air tools and lift can do it in under an hour (right front wheel removed for best access). If you look at the tensioner, although access is tight, it is held on with one nut and one bolt. The belts 'pop' on and off. I'd guess parts cost to dealer to be maybe $100. JMO.
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- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
Having just changed the belts on our 2014, I can say that the main belt (and tensioner) is pretty easy. As noted above, you jack the car, remove the wheel, unclip the pins holding the access panel, relieve the tension on the tensioner and the belt comes off easy. Then you can unbolt/replace the tensioner itself.
The secondary belt (the one without a tensioner) is a pain in the butt, however. Difficult to get off and even worse to get the new one back on!
The secondary belt (the one without a tensioner) is a pain in the butt, however. Difficult to get off and even worse to get the new one back on!
I haven't had to fight with the water pump stretch belt yet. I understand that technique is important here. Will find out at some point. My belts are still in good shape at 59,000 miles so it'll be a while.
By 'pop off' I meant that there are no bolts to loosen and components moved such as power steering pumps and alternators of days gone by.
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- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
Yeah, I should modify my original statement and say it's not too bad to get off. As per the manual, you just use a rag to pull it off as you turn the belt. That part not too difficult. Getting the new one on was an absolute B*tch. I would advise you buy one of the wedge-style belt install kits available on Amazon before you do this. I did not and really wish I had!
