2013~2016 Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?

[PatrickGSR94]

Just throwing in my 2 cents here. The original tensioner on our 2014 CX5 appears to be leaking (bought car with 53K, now has 113K, I assume it to be original). I just received the INA FT01291 tensioner from RockAuto for under $40. The damper body is marked F-613586-0100, and underneath that says "SLOVAKIA 01.10.20". I assume this to mean that it was manufactured 1 October 2020, given the normal European date format of dd/mm/yy.

I noticed that the pre-installed (and I assume pre-torqued) Torx bolt through the bottom of the damper, has plastic inserts, and the damper itself moves loosely around that bolt. Is that how it's supposed to be? The damper top bolt hole had a metal sleeve and the same plastic inserts, and that sleeve also feels like it can move loosely. Normal?

 

[Digbicks1234]

Just throwing in my 2 cents here. The original tensioner on our 2014 CX5 appears to be leaking (bought car with 53K, now has 113K, I assume it to be original). I just received the INA FT01291 tensioner from RockAuto for under $40. The damper body is marked F-613586-0100, and underneath that says "SLOVAKIA 01.10.20". I assume this to mean that it was manufactured 1 October 2020, given the normal European date format of dd/mm/yy.

I noticed that the pre-installed (and I assume pre-torqued) Torx bolt through the bottom of the damper, has plastic inserts, and the damper itself moves loosely around that bolt. Is that how it's supposed to be? The damper top bolt hole had a metal sleeve and the same plastic inserts, and that sleeve also feels like it can move loosely. Normal?

I haven't observed the plastic inserts but what I can say is that I have the same experience as you. My INA belt tensioner from RockAuto can slide around a little bit on the top bolt but my bottom bolt is pretty snug. At first I thought I didn't tighten it down all the way or something but I think that it's the design of the aftermarket INA one. I've since driven 3-4k now and I haven't noticed any significant issues so it seems to be fine in my case.

 

[yrwei52]

I haven't observed the plastic inserts but what I can say is that I have the same experience as you. My INA belt tensioner from RockAuto can slide around a little bit on the top bolt but my bottom bolt is pretty snug. At first I thought I didn't tighten it down all the way or something but I think that it's the design of the aftermarket INA one. I've since driven 3-4k now and I haven't noticed any significant issues so it seems to be fine in my case.

So even thought the INA belt tensioner and INA made Mazda OEM belt tensioner look the same, there’re some differences at least on tolerance side?

 

[Digbicks1234]

So even thought the INA belt tensioner and INA made Mazda OEM belt tensioner look the same, there’re some differences at least on tolerance side?

That would probably be a safe assumption since the difference between OEM and INA is nearly a $100 difference. I was thinking of getting washers at first but decided not to.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

At least it's not a massive difference like it used to be I guess. The INA part was $36 on RockAuto, and the OE part is as low as $102 from some of the online Mazda parts websites. They probably get you on shipping, though.

*edit* $114 shipped from RealMazdaParts.com. Possibly even a bit less if I order some other parts and get them all shipped at once.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

I noticed that the pre-installed (and I assume pre-torqued) Torx bolt through the bottom of the damper, has plastic inserts, and the damper itself moves loosely around that bolt. Is that how it's supposed to be? The damper top bolt hole had a metal sleeve and the same plastic inserts, and that sleeve also feels like it can move loosely. Normal?

followup: here’s my original Mazda tensioner and the INA one. Both have the same amount of free play in that joint with the Torx bolt. Looks and feels exactly the same to me.

Date on the original one appears to be 04.10.12 which most likely means 4 October 2012, which would make sense, as the car was manufactured January 2013 according to the door jamb sticker.

 

[yrwei52]

followup: here’s my original Mazda tensioner and the INA one. Both have the same amount of free play in that joint with the Torx bolt. Looks and feels exactly the same to me.

Date on the original one appears to be 04.10.12 which most likely means 4 October 2012, which would make sense, as the car was manufactured January 2013 according to the door jamb sticker.

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So your INA replacement tensioner has s/n F-613586-0100 on the damper, what is the s/n on your factory tensioner? Is it F-569897.10 or F-569897.07?

How many wheel well liners did you take out to complete your job?

Edit: saw the s/n on your factory tensioner: it’s 569897.07.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

I took out a few clips and screws on the bottom of the main fender liner (jack stand under front right corner, tire removed), and then the panel covering the crank pulley (4 more clips). Not too bad.

*edit* lower splash shield was already removed since I left it off during my ATF drain/fill procedures. I'll be putting that back on next weekend when I change the filter.

 

[Digbicks1234]

Mileage: 76,785

Decided to randomly check on the serpentine belt and tensioner. Not looking good, there's actually a nice slice right in the middle.

 

[yrwei52]

Mileage: 76,785

Decided to randomly check on the serpentine belt and tensioner. Not looking good, there's actually a nice slice right in the middle.

Can you tell what is the cause? From idler wheel on your INA tensioner?

 

[MyFirstMazda]

Mileage: 76,785

Decided to randomly check on the serpentine belt and tensioner. Not looking good, there's actually a nice slice right in the middle.

To me it looks like maybe a casting on the body of the tensioner is touching the roller.

 

[yrwei52]

To me it looks like maybe a casting on the body of the tensioner is touching the roller.

So INA tensioner ≠ Mazda genuine tensioner made by INA?

 

[Digbicks1234]

Can you tell what is the cause? From idler wheel on your INA tensioner?

I haven't taken a closer look so I am not sure but I am debating whether or not to replace it so early on at this point. It would be the 3rd belt tensioner....

 

[Digbicks1234]

To me it looks like maybe a casting on the body of the tensioner is touching the roller.

It's highly possible that something along these red lines are causing the damage but I'm going to assume it's as manufacturer defect since I didn't notice this with the old tensioner.

 

[yrwei52]

It's highly possible that something along these red lines are causing the damage but I'm going to assume it's as manufacturer defect since I didn't notice this with the old tensioner.

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So may be you can get another new INA belt tensioner under warranty?

 

[Digbicks1234]

So may be you can get another new INA belt tensioner under warranty?

I'll try... Probably be losing about $10 - 12 to get it shipped and then a few months to get it back. Not sure if it's worth it but I'll let you guys know if I decide to do the warranty.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Whatever made that gouge in the roller should have made a fairly noticeable scraping sound, at least until it scraped away enough of it to not be touching anymore.

 

[BGChicago]

Has anyone removed the passenger side top engine mount in order to reach the tensioner? Seems like it will make things easier. However, I have no idea what will that do to engine position (e.g. drop it?).
If not, what is the easiest technique? I will also be replacing sepentine belt so I am curious what is the right order.

 

[yrwei52]

Has anyone removed the passenger side top engine mount in order to reach the tensioner? Seems like it will make things easier. However, I have no idea what will that do to engine position (e.g. drop it?).
If not, what is the easiest technique? I will also be replacing sepentine belt so I am curious what is the right order.

You don’t need to remove the “top engine mount” on the passenger side. Read the posts by Digbicks1234 in this thread such as post #210 and post #227. And

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

by PatrickGSR94.

 

[BGChicago]

You don’t need to remove the “top engine mount” on the passenger side. Read the posts by Digbicks1234 in this thread such as post #210 and post #227. And

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

by PatrickGSR94.

When replacing tensioner and belts at same time, what order would you go? I am thinking remove belts (from bottom), remove tensioner, install new tensioner (more room to work without belts), install new belts.