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- Plano, Texas, USA
Based on some reports, I believe if you use OEM water pump stretch belt, it’d be easier to put on as the one-size-fit-all aftermarket belt (Gates?) seems to be a bit smaller than OEM belt.
2013~2016: Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?
- Thread starter Kjstech
- Start date
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- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
Ha! Well that'll teach ya.Hah! Well, the new one was a Gates belt
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- Plano, Texas, USA
I’ve learned the lesson during the long period of my DIY experience. I’ll use OEM parts all the time (belts、filters、ATF、etc.), even though they usually are more expensive. OEM parts will be the most compatible, and the best fit for replacement. This prevents me wasting my valuable labor time in case the parts don’t fit perfectly.
Replaced the belts and tensioner today on my 2019 AWD non-turbo and wanted to add this these notes:
1.
The top bolt/nut on the tensioner was pretty tight and easily rounded with a 12 point box end wrench.
I would definitely recommend only using a 6 point wrench or socket (which is always good advice on a car) and recommend accessing it through the wheel well using a socket driver and a 3+ inch extension. This would also allow a torque wrench (17-22 ft lb, info thanks to Digbicks1234). Pic attached showing where I did that.
If you don't use a socket, I'd recommend buying a new nut (part #19994-00-801, info thanks to Digbicks1234).
The bottom bolt wasn't as tight but could not be accessed with my sockets/driver (I used a regular length box wrench from below) so I'd also recommend a 6 point wrench to break that free. Once it's broken free, any wrench can be used without fear of rounding the bolt and ratcheting wrench offers quite a bit of convenience but if you're using a box end wrench you must stop before the bolt is fully loose and touches the car's frame because then your wrench will be stuck on the bolt.
I'd also recommend a new bolt just in case it rounds (part #9YA0-2A-818, info thanks to Digbicks1234)
2.
Some people reported that Gates and Dayco water pump belts were excessively small and extremely hard to get on.
But aftermarket belts have the advantage of EPDM rubber which lasts way longer so I tried a Continential 4030325S.
It was fairly easy to get on using the zip tie trick - zip tie the belt in the correct place on the bottom of the pulley and then as it rotates around it will stay in the correct place. Just stop spinning and cut the zip tie before the zip tie tries to make another rotation.
I also used a Continental alternator belt which seems to fit well. The tensioner indicator is about 60% towards the max/right/front end of car mark. I'm not sure where it normally is with a new OEM belt.
And I've attached pictures of the numbers on my original tensioner which hasn't leaked at 62,000 miles. At least at some point people were interested in those.
Thanks to everyone who has shared details, pictures, and guides!
1.
The top bolt/nut on the tensioner was pretty tight and easily rounded with a 12 point box end wrench.
I would definitely recommend only using a 6 point wrench or socket (which is always good advice on a car) and recommend accessing it through the wheel well using a socket driver and a 3+ inch extension. This would also allow a torque wrench (17-22 ft lb, info thanks to Digbicks1234). Pic attached showing where I did that.
If you don't use a socket, I'd recommend buying a new nut (part #19994-00-801, info thanks to Digbicks1234).
The bottom bolt wasn't as tight but could not be accessed with my sockets/driver (I used a regular length box wrench from below) so I'd also recommend a 6 point wrench to break that free. Once it's broken free, any wrench can be used without fear of rounding the bolt and ratcheting wrench offers quite a bit of convenience but if you're using a box end wrench you must stop before the bolt is fully loose and touches the car's frame because then your wrench will be stuck on the bolt.
I'd also recommend a new bolt just in case it rounds (part #9YA0-2A-818, info thanks to Digbicks1234)
2.
Some people reported that Gates and Dayco water pump belts were excessively small and extremely hard to get on.
But aftermarket belts have the advantage of EPDM rubber which lasts way longer so I tried a Continential 4030325S.
It was fairly easy to get on using the zip tie trick - zip tie the belt in the correct place on the bottom of the pulley and then as it rotates around it will stay in the correct place. Just stop spinning and cut the zip tie before the zip tie tries to make another rotation.
I also used a Continental alternator belt which seems to fit well. The tensioner indicator is about 60% towards the max/right/front end of car mark. I'm not sure where it normally is with a new OEM belt.
And I've attached pictures of the numbers on my original tensioner which hasn't leaked at 62,000 miles. At least at some point people were interested in those.
Thanks to everyone who has shared details, pictures, and guides!
Last edited:
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- 2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Thanks for the report of your experience on replacing the tensioner and sharing the pictures. Somehow I’m getting “The requested content cannot be loaded” error from your first picture.
Can you tell us what kind of tensioner you’re using? If you use an OEM, what is the current part number?
Looks like the Continental 4030325S water pump stretch belt is better suited for our CX-5 size-wise than other aftermarket belts such as the Gates belt.
Is the picture showing up now? I replaced it with one that has better labels and it may have taken a minute for the site to update.
I used a an INA from RockAuto ($40). RockAuto lists the part number as FT01291 but I forgot to check the numbers on the tensioner before installing it.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Yes, I can see both pictures now.
OEM tensioner has INA mark on it, but the price is tri-fold with a Mazda logo.
