2016 CX-5 Sport Transmission fluid change interval?

I'd consider an AT cooler and extra filter as well but not as easy to retrofit like some models. I've added a cooler to my Toyota/Lexus V8.

Tribe&TrueRacin: Did you retrofit this on a SkyActiv-Drive vehicle?


 
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There's no external transmission lines on my CX-5. No way to add an external cooler for me.
 
No one said that and I quote you... "the transmission will already have become damaged beyond recovery at 60K".

Would you like to see an oil analysis and read all the good stuff in a MAZDA transmission?
Below is one I suggest look at the values.
Here is one of my analyses from Black Stone Oil labs.
I look forward to seeing yours! ;)
I would recommend that you not wait and simply draw a sample from the dipstick area and send it to be analyzed. Please... oh and post your results. I like forum members that like to question information from any member on validity, experience and facts!

When you do get around to the MAZDA transmission service, please post the pictures of your pan and also the magnet. And how fun it was to clean both of them.

**I also recently posted what the varnish looks like on a valve body and that was on a transmission with less than 30k miles.

MY personal Mazda:
I run an addition auxiliary transmission cooler as well an inline oil filter have already done a complete fluid replacement and 3 basic pan filter servicing. I like to think that may be to some over kill. But in monitoring the effects of performance on a dyno regarding the transmission temperature's which are directly following the engine where MAZDA installed the sensors and what the real temperature's are it made me go WTF. So now I monitor 2 independent area's of the transmission temperature and watch that under no driving circumstance the transmission fluid gets over 185F returning from the sump back into the transmission.
I also went into the ECU and shut off the radiator fan control completely and installed my own auto fan and manual override control. Also I have removed the factory thermostat and install a cooler 170F thermostat, lowered the percentage of coolant to water, and have ducked ram air to enter the engine compartment at speeds above 40mph.





** see thread post # 19
Is your CX5 your personal Mazda? If so, where and how did you attach a cooler? Where did you get it? Please post some pics.
 
You run an adapter in place of the OEM 2014-2020 CX5 models with 2.5 (FZ21-19-9F3)
Automatic Transmission oil cooler. I bypassed the cooler (removed it completely) and ran my own lines also replacing the OEM hoses. Once the adapter is in place you can run a cooler or combination fan/cooler in many locations under the body. The transmission oil pump is well capable to pump full pressure even if you decide to run a cooler all the way to rear underbody.

There is no actual adapter to do this mod currently available but you can modify a Transmission service adapter ($30-$55) or easily make your own. Mazda TF832116QC If you can use a jig saw then you can cut 1/4 aluminum, drill and tap holes.

Sorry I can not show pictures as mine is the proto-type (*forum guidelines vendor )and should be upcoming kit offered from a well known MAZDA aftermarket parts *vendor that should be released this summer?



*

  • j ) If you are a vendor and wish to sell products on this site, you must be an "Authorized Vendor"
 
Has anyone tried either the WIX WL10379, BECK/ARNLEY 0440399 or VAICO V320220 on RockAuto? Looks like BECK/ARNLEY uses a rubber gasket but for WIX/VAICO, they do not specify the material being used. Just curious if there have been any issues with leaking ATF fluid from the gasket. I would like to not have to use RTV again on my next transmission pan drop if possible.

BECK/ARNLEY 0440399
Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Their product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.


Features & Benefits:
  • Includes o-rings and/or gaskets that are required for complete filter installation
  • A premium made rubber pan gasket is included if applicable
  • Be sure to use the specific ATF formulated for this transmission
1655998628369.png



WIX WL10379
WIX transmission filters protect transmissions against contaminants in the transmission fluid system. Proper filtration helps improve transmission life by minimizing wear and preventing sticking and scoring of sensitive shift control valves. In the event of a part failure, the filter also guards against secondary damage to other parts, helping to minimize repair costs.


Features:
  • Filter is matched to OE filtration effectiveness, fluid flow rate, fluid pressure and material
  • Reliable construction ensures no unfiltered fluid can bypass the filtration media
  • Lock seamed and sealed filter assembly with application specific sealing components ensures complete filtration
  • Includes sealing gaskets specifically designed for use with today's sophisticated transmission fluids
1655998609157.png

VAICO V320220

Filter + Gasket Combo (Official Website)
Gasket (Official Website): No indication of the gasket material.
VAICO is a division of Vierol - a German auto parts manufacturer. Vaico products are made using high-quality materials and undergo strict quality tests to ensure OE fit, form, and function.
1655999322982.png
 

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Has anyone tried either the WIX WL10379, BECK/ARNLEY 0440399 or VAICO V320220 on RockAuto? Looks like BECK/ARNLEY uses a rubber gasket but for WIX/VAICO, they do not specify the material being used. Just curious if there have been any issues with leaking ATF fluid from the gasket. I would like to not have to use RTV again on my next transmission pan drop if possible.

BECK/ARNLEY 0440399

View attachment 310968


WIX WL10379

View attachment 310966
VAICO V320220

Filter + Gasket Combo (Official Website)
Gasket (Official Website): No indication of the gasket material.

View attachment 310972
Not that brand in particular, but years ago I had a 97 Plymouth Voyager that I used to do a fluid/filter change, originally had RTV sealant on the pan. Eventually some one came out with a reusable gasket with a silicone inlay. It worked pretty damn good.
 
That is the exact filter I use on my 2013 with the 2.0. it comes with a rubber gasket.
Woohoo!! Just a few questions:
  1. How long have you been running this setup for (miles/years)?
  2. How many times have you used the WIX WL10379 setup?
  3. Have you experienced any leaks or noticed anything odd?
 
I do a drain and fill every 30k, drop the pan and change the filter every 60. I'm almost at 105 now, so my second filter change is coming up soon.

No leaks, either. Just remember that it's a gasket, not RTV, so don't kill the bolts tightening them down. You want to snug them, then go a bit more, all the way around several times. If you crank them down, you'll squish the gasket too much, and then it will leak!
 
I do a drain and fill every 30k, drop the pan and change the filter every 60. I'm almost at 105 now, so my second filter change is coming up soon.

No leaks, either. Just remember that it's a gasket, not RTV, so don't kill the bolts tightening them down. You want to snug them, then go a bit more, all the way around several times. If you crank them down, you'll squish the gasket too much, and then it will leak!
That is good information to know, I'm at 98k at this moment and plan to do my transmission pan drop at around 130k (last one was about 65k). Do you follow up with a torque wrench and then torque the bolts to spec afterwards or do you just snug them up? Not sure if torqueing the bolts to spec will destroy the gasket or not.
 
I can understand not wanting to do new RTV. It was one of the easier tasks though in my opinion. Removing the pan and the old RTV was a bigger undertaking. I bought an oil pan separator off Amazon and Motorcraft silicone gasket remover off EBay. That helped me get get pan off quickly and remove all of the old RTV with a brass brush in under an hour. You’ll want the pan and the transmission housing as clean and grease free as possible RTV or silicone gasket.

I can’t remember the torque specs for the pan bolts, but it’s pretty low. We’re talking inch pounds/hand tight. Install the bolts in an alternating star pattern, doing each one on opposite sides. Torque them all to the required specifications in an opposing pattern, and go back and check them all again once you’ve tightened each one. That should do it. No leaks with my Mazda OEM gasket maker. The OEM torque spec should be fine for a pre made gasket.
 
Any of the rubber pan gasket will work if:
The surface area is completely cleaned.
No dents or irregularity on the pan or transmission pan mounting area.
wiper both surface areas with acetone, brake cleaner, electrical parts cleaner or 90% alcohol only and let it dry.
Torque in small even steps and DO NOT over tighten. I prefer slightly less then specification and then retorque after about 3-5 complete engine cycles.
DO NOT LET the gasket budge when tightening (it will leak) which can sometimes happen using factory specification which really were for the use of sealer only.
There is one bolt that needs to have seal applied. You may not get a leak but its better to take care of it now then later.
 
As was stated, the factory torque spec applies to RTV, not a gasket, so you can't go by that.

Use 1/4" drive hand tools, and just use your eyes and your feel to get the proper torque. A speed handle is the tool of the day for this job.
 
I've built one for my Mazda 3 Turbo. BG makes an adapter that makes it easy to bypass the factory warmer/cooler on the side of the transmission. I used this cooler 19 Row Series 10000 Stack Plate Transmission Cooler Kit. Use good quality lines and mount it up front. I live in a severe heat climate so I did not install an inline thermostat. Depending on the size of cooler you go with it is not a bad idea to put one inline. I've been inside multiple Skyactiv Drive units. They are built well but based on wear/torque converter friction shed in multiple versions of these transmissions for my own personal car I will be doing a filter and fluid every 30k Miles.
 

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Any of the rubber pan gasket will work if:
T
There is one bolt that needs to have seal applied. You may not get a leak but its better to take care of it now then later.
While I have not confirmed it this one bolt was slightly longer than all the rest of the pan bolts. The first time I did the filter service I had a small amount of oil about a drop every 100 miles accumulate on the top and surrounding area. So now I simply apply a little sealer and dry a bone until my next 5k filter service.
 

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As was stated, the factory torque spec applies to RTV, not a gasket, so you can't go by that.

Use 1/4" drive hand tools, and just use your eyes and your feel to get the proper torque. A speed handle is the tool of the day for this job.
You can go slightly lower for sure, but as low the OEM specs are it’s splitting hairs imo. If you take your time and use a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench you can’t go wrong. Tribe did a better job explaining how thorough you need to be degreasing the mating surfaces.
 
Good to hear about gasket option. I just turned 70k miles today and last changed fluid at 50k miles. I will be dropping pan and replacing filter in 10k miles.

••Anyone using new bolts like FSM says? Pan bolt PN: 9YA0-10-615A


71-88 in-lbf

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Good to hear about gasket option. I just turned 70k miles today and last changed fluid at 50k miles. I will be dropping pan and replacing filter in 10k miles.

••Anyone using new bolts like FSM says? Pan bolt PN: 9YA0-10-615A


71-88 in-lbf

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I used new bolts for grins and giggles. I also wanted some on hand in case I accidentally lost a bolt in the garage or something. I wouldnt mind using the old ones, but they will have some RTV on them that you’ll want to remove before reusing. Blooms had a good idea to hit them with a dremel and wire wheel, it’ll knock that crap right off. There is also location. I’m in the south with no road salt, so the bolts weren’t rusty. I’d be hesitant to reuse rusty bolts.
 
Good to hear about gasket option. I just turned 70k miles today and last changed fluid at 50k miles. I will be dropping pan and replacing filter in 10k miles.

••Anyone using new bolts like FSM says? Pan bolt PN: 9YA0-10-615A


71-88 in-lbf

View attachment 310993
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1K00GS1.jpg
I bought brand new bolts for my last pan drop and I typically try to always buy new hardware since my area has road salt every year and I don't know when I'll need to chop off a bolt.
 
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