2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

[PatrickGSR94]

What about the upstream O2 sensor? Any point in replacing that even though it's not throwing a code? On my Integra I replaced the O2 sensor years ago, even though it wasn't triggering the CEL, but afterwards I saw an immediate, fairly substantial increase in MPG. RockAuto has the actual OE part from NTK for less than $100 which seems like great price. Includes the harness, plug, and even the harness retaining clip.

More Information for NTK 24369

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Just received my RockAuto order. The INA tensioner appears to be marked F-613586-0100, and then it says Slovakia 01.10.20. Given the European date format I would assume that means it was manufactured on 1 October 2020 (not January 10th). Not sure what that means as far as whether it matches the latest Mazda revised version or not, but I don't really care. The price was low enough that I can just replace it again later if needed.

 

[Mazdiod2]

But if NGK makes the plugs for Mazda, how can they be any different? I literally bought the exact same part number that is on the Mazda box, just without the Mazda logo printed on it.

Could it be Mazda sorts thru the plugs and matches or grades them somehow?

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Given that the NGK spec sheet gives a single value and Mazda gives a range, it’s unlikely that they sort through anything.

 

[yrwei52]

Given that the NGK spec sheet gives a single value and Mazda gives a range, it’s unlikely that they sort through anything.

You shouldn’t worry about using genuine NGK plugs if you feel comfortable. This’s something about personal preference and comfortable level. Just let us know the resistance valves on both old and new plugs out of our curiosity.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Yep, should be getting them in today.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Alright so I got most of the parts done today. Belts, tensioner and valve cover and OVC gaskets. Did not do the final ATF drain and fill as I’ve decided to drop the pan and replace the filter, so next weekend for that.

that stretch belt was a bear. I struggled with it almost 2 hours. Tried the zip tie method several times, couldn’t get it, and one time it broke the zip tie. Finally I put 2 zip ties right next to each other on the water pump pulley, holding the belt, and that got it. Then I had to struggle a bit more to get it aligned on the right grooves on the crank pulley.

On spark plug resistance, new plugs measured right at 5K ohms. Old plugs were about 6,700 ohms. New plugs measured right at .044” gap while the old had .045”. Not bad for 110K+ miles I’d say.

 

[yrwei52]

Alright so I got most of the parts done today. Belts, tensioner and valve cover and OVC gaskets. Did not do the final ATF drain and fill as I’ve decided to drop the pan and replace the filter, so next weekend for that.

By following your posts, I feel you have no problem to drop the pan although it’s more hassle to do it. You’d be delighted after you cleaned up all the gunk and sludge on the magnet and pan, If possible, please take time and post us some photos.

that stretch belt was a bear. I struggled with it almost 2 hours. Tried the zip tie method several times, couldn’t get it, and one time it broke the zip tie. Finally I put 2 zip ties right next to each other on the water pump pulley, holding the belt, and that got it. Then I had to struggle a bit more to get it aligned on the right grooves on the crank pulley.

If I remember it correctly, someone had compared Gate stretch belt and OEM belt for water pump, and Gate belt is a bit shorter and it’s harder to put on. It’s normal for aftermarket belts as they always tend to make one part to fit many car models.

On spark plug resistance, new plugs measured right at 5K ohms. Old plugs were about 6,700 ohms. New plugs measured right at .044” gap while the old had .045”. Not bad for 110K+ miles I’d say.

Comparing your NGK ILKAR7L11 / 94124 plugs ordered directly from NGK website to the same NGK plugs Digbicks1234 got from RockAuto, I just can’t help believing yours at least are having better quality with more consistent resistance, not to mention possible counterfeit issue.

I believe you meant (in KΩ):

1. Spark 1: 4.28 ~ 4.29
2. Spark 2: 4.04 ~ 4.05
3. Spark 3: 4.18 ~ 4.21
4. Spark 4: 5.45 ~ 5.49

1. All 4 NGK plugs are within specification 3.0 ~ 7.5 KΩ @ 77°F. As long as your room temperature is approximately 77°F, these new NGK plugs should be fine.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Yeah I tested all 4 of my new NGK plugs, and they were all four showing 4.8 to 4.9 k-ohms.

Just called my local dealer and they have the filter/strainer in stock, so I'm going to swing by there tomorrow while I'm out anyway and pick it up. Only a few bucks more than online and probably the same or less once shipping is tacked on, and I'll be sure to have it before next weekend. We're doing a road trip on V-day weekend so I want to get all this stuff done by then.

 

[yrwei52]

Yeah I tested all 4 of my new NGK plugs, and they were all four showing 4.8 to 4.9 k-ohms.

Just called my local dealer and they have the filter/strainer in stock, so I'm going to swing by there tomorrow while I'm out anyway and pick it up. Only a few bucks more than online and probably the same or less once shipping is tacked on, and I'll be sure to have it before next weekend. We're doing a road trip on V-day weekend so I want to get all this stuff done by then.

What kind of silicon pan sealer do you plan to use? And are you going to try sticking wood dowel rod method suggested by ruthrj?

Oh! That reminds me. If I end up removing the pan I read a cool tip to help reinstall it. Stick dowel rods in the bolt holes of the transmission body. Use those as guides for the pan so you can mate it perfectly to the transmission. Remove the dowel rods as you go to install bolts. Blew my mind how simple that was.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

I have plenty of spare bolts that I can cut the heads off to make aligning pins. Haven't decided yet on what RTV to use. Something that doesn't cure too quickly, so as to hopefully not have those issues that Digbicks mentioned in his thread. Suggestions welcome.

I recall the Felpro Permadry gasket I installed on my Integra oil pan a couple years ago. The gasket came with several plastic threaded studs with little clips, which would go into the cylinder block, and the oil pan could be pushed up into place and temporarily held by those clips on the plastic studs. Pretty ingenious idea. I might still have some of those around, it would be amazing if the thread was the same size on the Skyactiv ATF pan.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Here's the product, and this size should work with the CX5 ATF drain pan.

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-pan-tool/fel-pro-6mm-bolt-oil-pan-snapups/155048_0_0?rrec=true

 

[minnesotaart]

If I remember it correctly, someone had compared Gate stretch belt and OEM belt for water pump, and Gate belt is a bit shorter and it’s harder to put on. It’s normal for aftermarket belts as they always tend to make one part to fit many car models.

Yeah, that would be me. No matter how many zip ties I used, they all broke and I just could not get it done while lying on the ground. Took it my mechanic who had an easier time of it using a lift.

 

[yrwei52]

I have plenty of spare bolts that I can cut the heads off to make aligning pins. Haven't decided yet on what RTV to use. Something that doesn't cure too quickly, so as to hopefully not have those issues that Digbicks mentioned in his thread. Suggestions welcome.

I recall the Felpro Permadry gasket I installed on my Integra oil pan a couple years ago. The gasket came with several plastic threaded studs with little clips, which would go into the cylinder block, and the oil pan could be pushed up into place and temporarily held by those clips on the plastic studs. Pretty ingenious idea. I might still have some of those around, it would be amazing if the thread was the same size on the Skyactiv ATF pan.

I’d try to follow the procedure from Mazda FSM closely. If the price of OEM RTV is not outrageous, I’d use that one too.

7. Apply a light coat of silicon sealant (TB1217E) to the contact surfaces of the oil pan and transaxle case.

CAUTION:

• Clean any remaining silicone sealant on the contact surface of the transaxle case and oil pan, and degrease the sealant area. Otherwise, oil could leak.

8. Install the oil pan with new bolts before the applied sealant starts to harden.

• Tightening torque 8—10 N·m {82—101 kgf·cm, 71—88 in·lbf}

I’d also review Digbicks1234’s posts on his RTV experience and he used Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV the second time and it’s a success.

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

Finally, RTV is applied on both ATF pan and transaxle case. I thought sticking wood dowel rod into the bolt phole is mainly for applying the RTV around the hole without letting the RTV get into the hole and crack the aluminum case when your put the pan bolt in. There’s a caution about this in FSM. Now I believe those wood dowel rods manly are for the pan installation alignment like the Fel-Pro 6mm bolt oil pan snap-ups for.

And not sure I’d want to replace all ATF pan bolts like FSM suggested.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Yeah, that would be me. No matter how many zip ties I used, they all broke and I just could not get it done while lying on the ground. Took it my mechanic who had an easier time of it using a lift.

I was just glad I got it done, because I cut off the old belt, so there was no turning back! It was definitely a pain. I had to lay underneath the front of the car, feet in front of the front left tire, head near the front right brake rotor, with my arms reaching up in that space between the front strut and the pulleys on the engine.

I’d try to follow the procedure from Mazda FSM closely. If the price of OEM RTV is not outrageous, I’d use that one too.

7. Apply a light coat of silicon sealant (TB1217E) to the contact surfaces of the oil pan and transaxle case.

CAUTION:

• Clean any remaining silicone sealant on the contact surface of the transaxle case and oil pan, and degrease the sealant area. Otherwise, oil could leak.

8. Install the oil pan with new bolts before the applied sealant starts to harden.

• Tightening torque 8—10 N·m {82—101 kgf·cm, 71—88 in·lbf}

I’d also review Digbicks1234’s posts on his RTV experience and he used Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV the second time and it’s a success.

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

Finally, RTV is applied on both ATF pan and transaxle case. I thought sticking wood dowel rod into the bolt phole is mainly for applying the RTV around the hole without letting the RTV get into the hole and crack the aluminum case when your put the pan bolt in. There’s a caution about this in FSM. Now I believe those wood dowel rods manly are for the pan installation alignment like the Fel-Pro 6mm bolt oil pan snap-ups for.

And not sure I’d want to replace all ATF pan bolts like FSM suggested.

ugh, new bolts too?? Whatever in the heck for? It's not like they're one-time-use TTY bolts.

My Integra FSM says to replace the lower control arm suspension bolts front and rear whenever they come apart. I've had them apart dozens of times in the last 20 years and still using the originals.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Alright so I got the transmission filter/strainer from the local dealer, and also picked up 4 new pan bolts. I checked last night and all of my bolts seem to be in good shape, except one which is fairly rust, and another that has a little bit of rust showing on it. Unfortunately I forgot to pick up another bottle of ATF FZ. I still have 4 quarts and 20 ounces but that's probably about 1 qt short.

Looking at the bolts, I have no idea why the FSM says to replace them. They appear to be just regular old 6x1.0mm 10mm hex head dog-point bolts, with a captured washer, just like what's used all over the car. Heck my Miata has bolts just like that holding the fenders on. So I'll just replace the rusted ones, and then re-use the other ones, after I make sure to clean all traces of old sealant off of them.

 

[yrwei52]

Alright so I got the transmission filter/strainer from the local dealer, and also picked up 4 new pan bolts. I checked last night and all of my bolts seem to be in good shape, except one which is fairly rust, and another that has a little bit of rust showing on it. Unfortunately I forgot to pick up another bottle of ATF FZ. I still have 4 quarts and 20 ounces but that's probably about 1 qt short.

Looking at the bolts, I have no idea why the FSM says to replace them. They appear to be just regular old 6x1.0mm 10mm hex head dog-point bolts, with a captured washer, just like what's used all over the car. Heck my Miata has bolts just like that holding the fenders on. So I'll just replace the rusted ones, and then re-use the other ones, after I make sure to clean all traces of old sealant off of them.

Ha, 4 quarts and 20 ounces of ATF FZ is really on boarder line for pan drop. It could be just enough for the job.

About the pan bolts, I’d be debating too if I’m going to replace all as mentioned before. I agree that the reason why the FSM says to use the new pan bolts is because the rust condition and possible left-over silicon sealant on the bolt thread which could crack the transmission case. Digbicks1234 did replaced all although he reused them due to the ATF pan leak.

If you do go back the Mazda dealer for additional ATF FZ, please find out the price on OEM silicon sealant (TB1217E), and is it the red color like the factory pan sealant?

 

[PatrickGSR94]

I noticed that at least some of those pan bolt holes are not blind holes. They're actually open holes in the flange of the gearbox case, and the dog-point tips of the bolts are exposed. I'm not sure if all of them are like that. But at least on those, old sealant on the end of the bolt should not be an issue. But I'll still be cleaning them all off completely. I'll use a brass brush on my Dremel if I have to.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Alright so I finally got everything to finish this ATF replacement job. Got another quart of fluid from the dealer for $15, and the OEM sealant for $11. Package says it’s gray colored.

 

[yrwei52]

Alright so I finally got everything to finish this ATF replacement job. Got another quart of fluid from the dealer for $15, and the OEM sealant for $11. Package says it’s gray colored.

View attachment 294914

OEM RTV Silicone Gasket Maker 0000-77-1217-ES is gray colored. The factory silicon seal on ATF pan is red / brownish color. The video from Japan uses ThreeBond 1207C Liquid Gasket Reddish Brown which looks like factory seal.

And what is your plan on how to apply the sealant? Both on the ATF pan and transmission case aluminum rail like FSM suggested or just on the pan? Smearing or beading?