2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

@PatrickGSR94
Awesome thread. Were you able to replace the tensioner/belts without removing top passenger side engine mount? I don't think the manual call for it but things looks really tight there (I have never done any work on side of any car engine). Also, what year is your CX5? Thanks.
 
Did not have to remove or unbolt any engine mounts, thankfully.

Vehicle is noted below my avatar pic.
And the thread title ⋯

BTW, did you ever remove anything such as wheel well liners like Digbicks1234 did to access the belts?
 
So I finished both belts+tensioner (under 2 hours) and OCV solenoid, OCV seal, head cover gasket (4 hours).
First part was much easier than I thought. Apparently there is more room on the 2.0 engines. Removed wheel, removed plastic cover behind wheel. Worked mostly from the bottom. except tensioner top bolt. The water pumps was easy to remove with a towel and easy to put on by pushing it with fingers while spinning the crank. Both belts were OEM, tensioner INA from Rock Auto.

The top of engine isn't complicated but it is a laggard job. Cleaning the head from older RTV took some time and in my opinion dealer (serviced at 57k for the OCV leak issue) did a very poor job re-installing the cover. There was way too much RTV, even sticking inside the head and I took precautions not to drop any inside (lint free rags in the corners help) while cleaning it. The engine also had oil deposits on left and right side as well as front and I am certain it was from the gasket. Do not even attempt to do this without a precision torque wrench. 7NM for the 15 cover bolts is way to little and you would easily double it if you don't have experience. The solenoid was purchased from ebay seller from Dubai - arrived in less than a week. A week later and I don't see any oil.
I was trying to find some records of what the dealer did at 57k but I couldn't. Likely the only swapped the OCV seal.
 
So I finished both belts+tensioner (under 2 hours) and OCV solenoid, OCV seal, head cover gasket (4 hours).
First part was much easier than I thought. Apparently there is more room on the 2.0 engines. Removed wheel, removed plastic cover behind wheel. Worked mostly from the bottom. except tensioner top bolt. The water pumps was easy to remove with a towel and easy to put on by pushing it with fingers while spinning the crank. Both belts were OEM, tensioner INA from Rock Auto.

The top of engine isn't complicated but it is a laggard job. Cleaning the head from older RTV took some time and in my opinion dealer (serviced at 57k for the OCV leak issue) did a very poor job re-installing the cover. There was way too much RTV, even sticking inside the head and I took precautions not to drop any inside (lint free rags in the corners help) while cleaning it. The engine also had oil deposits on left and right side as well as front and I am certain it was from the gasket. Do not even attempt to do this without a precision torque wrench. 7NM for the 15 cover bolts is way to little and you would easily double it if you don't have experience. The solenoid was purchased from ebay seller from Dubai - arrived in less than a week. A week later and I don't see any oil.
I was trying to find some records of what the dealer did at 57k but I couldn't. Likely the only swapped the OCV seal.
Thanks for the update.

You have verified that the belt tensioner job is easier on the 2.0L due to more space available; and the OEM water pump stretch belt with correct size is a lot easier to install than aftermarket counterpart.

Noticed any differences between INA belt tensioner and the OEM / factory tensioner discussed in earlier posts here?
 
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By far the easiest method I've found for cleaning aluminum gasket sealing surfaces is a brass brush, and/or a brass brush bit in a Dremel tool. They make quick work of cleaning the old stuff off of the timing belt cover mating surface and the cam cap seal area. I usually scrape the bulk of the old stuff off with a razor blade, then use the brass brush to get any last bits of residue off.

I used the same tools when cleaning the bottom of the transmission and the trans pan sealing surface, before applying new RTV sealant.
 
⋯ I usually scrape the bulk of the old stuff off with a razor blade, then use the brass brush to get any last bits of residue off.
Using a razor blade on the aluminum gasket sealing surfaces? I’d try this “plastic“ blade designed only for such job:

PITTSBURGH Non-Marring Scraper Set, 4 Pc.

C5CE4FAB-2146-4AFB-AF07-4F5B022EDE72.jpeg
 
yes sir, a razor blade, or more specifically a razor scraper. I never use a single-edge blade by itself, which I've seen in many YouTube videos and don't understand why people do that. Works totally fine if you work carefully. I've never had an issue with it. 8 months since re-sealing the trans drain pan and still no leaks.
 
yes sir, a razor blade, or more specifically a razor scraper. I never use a single-edge blade by itself, which I've seen in many YouTube videos and don't understand why people do that. Works totally fine if you work carefully. I've never had an issue with it. 8 months since re-sealing the trans drain pan and still no leaks.
You know what you’re doing, so even using the razor blade you may be fine against the aluminum surface. I personally won’t use it as I’m afraid the razor blade or single-edge metal blade scraper may scratch the soft aluminum surface. Those may be fine to metal oil pan or ATF pan on the CX-5. Plastic scraper is softer than aluminum, and that’s the one I’d use.
 
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