200 whp
- Thread starter Nootz08
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kicker22705
Member
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- 03.5 Ti MSP
(yippy)
719prottege
Member
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- 03 msp
as far as taking out the tranny, it is cake. took me a little over an hour. granted, i did have a lift 
but in retrospect, it would definately be much easier to drop the engine and the tranny at the same time. the only part i remember giving me trouble was putting the starter back in, but thats probably just becuase i have huge arms and it was 3am and i was... well... kinda impaired..
but in retrospect, it would definately be much easier to drop the engine and the tranny at the same time. the only part i remember giving me trouble was putting the starter back in, but thats probably just becuase i have huge arms and it was 3am and i was... well... kinda impaired..Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
its just a viscous clutch, so when its working it makes a.... grinding/rubbing type noise, but I'm talking about when one wheel has good traction and the other has nearly none... it works every time you're putting down torque or go around a corner, but the situation i'm talking about is when its being abused.
SeR_Cyclops
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- Mazdaspeed Protege
Does it sound like a clunk? Cause you cant change just the front motor mount. If you change the front and not the rear it changes the pitch of the engine and the engine will hit on that bar that the front motor mount is mounted too. the one running from front to rear of the car.
no, its a really really loud humming noise... it sends vibrations through the floor and into the pedals its so loud. i thought it was related either to the diff, strain on the clutch, or the rear mount is shot and its pulling against the front mount so hard its rattling the frame. im going to go with occams razor here and say the rear is toast. my front mount was in 2 pieces it was torn so bad.
it used to do it once in a while if i got off the clutch a little too quickly on a hill, but its much more prone to it now. ideas?
it used to do it once in a while if i got off the clutch a little too quickly on a hill, but its much more prone to it now. ideas?
Wow, four pages of miss-information and its still going strong...
SeR_Cyclops
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- Mazdaspeed Protege
Buddy you don't know what you are talking about...... If you want ill go take some pics an prove to you that mine was hitting! When you let off the clutch sometimes you would hear a clunk and I thought I had a bad rear mount so I changed it to the AWR rear and it fixed it (BTW the stock rear mount was good when I got it out). You can even see where it was rubbing. I don't care what you think, this might not be the case on all msp's but I know 100 percent it was the case on mine.
Would you like me to snap some pics? to prove my point? BTW after I changed the rear mount it stopped making that clunk sound.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
my brother is running AWR mounts, all of them except the rear and no weird sound
i was running all inserts except for the rear for a while and i didnt have any problems
i was running all inserts except for the rear for a while and i didnt have any problems
a lot of people do run AWR mounts and dont have the sound. maybe their rear mount is in one piece and mine is torn. i have no idea. ive described the symptons and asked a few people but no one has had it as far as i can tell.
once more - i had the groan before i did the mount. it would damn near make the car vibrate. it generally would happen if i slipped the clutch a little too hard or if i was balancing it at low RPM on one of the a huge hills near where i live. then i got the clunk, which i figured was my front motor mount being in two pieces. i found out i was correct when i changed it and it went away.
the groan persists though, and now that the car gets power to the ground with less drivetrain lash it happens more frequently than before - unless i wind the car up to around 2200 RPM and slip the clutch gently. it also happens at WOT in first and second, which it did not do before.
i realize this is a total threadjack but since people are looking at it anyways does anyone have any idea?
SeR_Cyclops
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege
I understand what you are saying, Maybe it was just my part. I remember I had a hard time getting the Front mount on. I had to take that bar out install the motor mount to the bar and then take that big bolt that goes through the mount and install it on the engine and then put the bar on the car. I used a lift so it wasnt bad but I kept thinking that this should be easier for this mount. So maybe you are right maybe my mount was just a little funny.
FWIW, I ran only an AWR front motor mount for awhile (also a SU front mount alone). I've since swapped front mounts 3 or 4 times, and rear mounts twice... in each case, the bolt going through the mount came in and out fairly smoothly, so I don't believe the aftermarket mounts inherently cause a different geometry. What is possible is that running only a front MM can change the axis on which the motor pivots during acceleration/engine braking. I suppose it could also depends on the condition of your other mounts.
As long as we're on the threadjack, yudkib, is this groaning a single short sound (like a suspension groan), or is it a continuous noise (say as you're accelerating through 2nd at WOT)? If it's a continuous sound, I'd be strongly leaning towards a blown motor mount transmitting vibration when certain torques are acting on the engine. That rear mount REALLY transmits vibration into the cabin well, since it's basically bolted to the firewall.
As long as we're on the threadjack, yudkib, is this groaning a single short sound (like a suspension groan), or is it a continuous noise (say as you're accelerating through 2nd at WOT)? If it's a continuous sound, I'd be strongly leaning towards a blown motor mount transmitting vibration when certain torques are acting on the engine. That rear mount REALLY transmits vibration into the cabin well, since it's basically bolted to the firewall.
its a constant thing.
i forgot about how the rear MM is right against the firewall, and i do feel the vibrations through the pedals. it makes me "almost positive" its a bad rear MM instead of "highly suspecting" it was the rear MM.
not surprised since a stiffer front MM transfers more load to the rear... almost exactly what i was thinking.
i forgot about how the rear MM is right against the firewall, and i do feel the vibrations through the pedals. it makes me "almost positive" its a bad rear MM instead of "highly suspecting" it was the rear MM.
not surprised since a stiffer front MM transfers more load to the rear... almost exactly what i was thinking.
slo03.5msp
Member
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- 03.5 yellow msp
To the op,
Yes it is very possible to hit 200 whp on a stock block with 10lbs of boost or less. It will have to be a good tune. And yes the trans can hold it. I am the buddy zuku referred to. 56k miles on the stock tranny a exedy stage 1 clutchand fidanza flywheel. No issues yet. One common problem I see is people useing trans fluid as opposed to gear oil as our transmissions call for.....
Yes it is very possible to hit 200 whp on a stock block with 10lbs of boost or less. It will have to be a good tune. And yes the trans can hold it. I am the buddy zuku referred to. 56k miles on the stock tranny a exedy stage 1 clutchand fidanza flywheel. No issues yet. One common problem I see is people useing trans fluid as opposed to gear oil as our transmissions call for.....
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
trans fluid and gear oil is the same, no?
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
*facepalm* this thread is beginning to fail badly.
.mazda.speed.
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- Mazdaspeed Protege!
lol i agree
Ricktalife
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Where's the reset button?
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