2.2D Photos.

I'm just slightly shorter than GJ and I had no issues during my test drive of the CX-5. My seat was set to lowest position and even with the sunroof, I still had enough head room.

The CX-5 is easy, plenty of space, even the GT.

The sedans are getting in the 38ish and below headroom range, which is where my problems start.
 
The CX-5 is easy, plenty of space, even the GT.

The sedans are getting in the 38ish and below headroom range, which is where my problems start.

Hmm... my current 6 doesn't have a sunroof but I've got enough headroom, probably about a hand's width or so.

But I get each person's body style is different
 
I'm almost 6'6 so unless the CX-5 has drastically less headroom than my current BMW X3, I don't see this being an issue if the seat is all the way down (which I've done with every car I've ever owned) and slightly reclined. No super gangster lean, just a little so I'm not sitting bolt upright and looking out the sunroof
 
I'm almost 6'6 so unless the CX-5 has drastically less headroom than my current BMW X3, I don't see this being an issue if the seat is all the way down (which I've done with every car I've ever owned) and slightly reclined. No super gangster lean, just a little so I'm not sitting bolt upright and looking out the sunroof

Lol, well Im a bit shorter then you and I do the exact same thing in every car. I just like the low-slung seating position (which is why Id never buy anything but a coupe or sedan)

I lean my seat back kind of far. Its comfortable that way :)
 
Anyway! Some more photos for those that fancy a poke around the new model.


The Diesel engine has a high thermal efficiency meaning that most of the heat it generates is converted to energy and sent out of the exhaust. As a result, the warm up time is very long - so much so that the heater has an electric heater incorporated. A lot of effort goes into getting it up to temperature and the sump (oil pan) is fully insulated

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...and they provide a little hatch to get at the 8mm hex plug

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The oil filter is over on the front side

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I've removed the undertray for the application of wax but rest assured, they have provided access panels for all serviceable operations. The exhaust gets super hot during regeneration and you can smell burning when it's operating. In this view you can see some shielding and the ones at the front protect the really hot parts at the front. It would set dry grass on fire without it.

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The underside fibre shields are off here for waxing so you can see the floorpan is largely left in primer coat. The pipes are plastic coated steel and the tank is heavily undersealed

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This is the computer controlled drive coupling to the rear diff. On this model, all the bearings have been beefed up.

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Getting the front wheel arch liner is a bit of a polava but it does make fitting the mudflaps easier

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Out of curiosity, I tried one of my spare pads from the old model and it fits OK despite a part number change.

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Anchorman, I really appreciate you posting these pictures. Thank you.

The oil drain looks more accessible than what I've seen (maybe 2016 gas). And it looks like the oil filter drops straight down. Nice.

Can you elaborate on the beefing up of bearings? Relative to what?

With all of that lining, are the jack points obvious?
 
Anchorman, I really appreciate you posting these pictures. Thank you.

The oil drain looks more accessible than what I've seen (maybe 2016 gas). And it looks like the oil filter drops straight down. Nice.

Can you elaborate on the beefing up of bearings? Relative to what?

With all of that lining, are the jack points obvious?

Yes, the bearings in the rear diff have been doubled up. I'll post some decent PDFs at a later date because the ones I've got are too big too upload. It describes them as tandem bearings being adopted.

In this picture of the full length undershields, you can see they only come out to the sill so rest assured, the jacking points are fully accessible. I will take better photos for you but I've attached a PDF for now. (Next post)

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Thank you. Looks pretty similar to my 2000 Acura. Presumably you can jack the front cross member and put stands at the front pinch welds. Then on the back, instead of a welded loop, on the 4WD you jack the rear differential, then put stands on the rear pinch welds.
 
Thanks for the pics Anchorman! Good to see the some of the stuff we normally don't see.

Next thing I would like is a photo your CX-5 completely taken apart by you with all parts line alphabetically on the ground (wink) (rofl)
 
Thanks for the pics Anchorman! Good to see the some of the stuff we normally don't see.

Next thing I would like is a photo your CX-5 completely taken apart by you with all parts line alphabetically on the ground (wink) (rofl)

Now you tell me. I put it back together again last night!
 
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