Cost to replace brake pads and rotors on 2011 CX-9

[shadow338]

Hello,


What would be an acceptable cost to replace brake pads and rotors on all 4 wheels? Nothing facying just OEM parts.

AAA is asking for $800 but I don't have yet another quote to compare.

They informed me that re-surfacing the rotors is not an option. I never had to re-surface rotors on any car that I owned but they say they recommend do it together with the pads.

Do you replace rotors every time you replace pads?

Thanks in advance.

 

[edmaz]

I don't replace rotors until they need to be, based on their condition and how much of the surface has been worn away. How many miles and years since the pads and rotors were last replaced?

 

[shadow338]

I don't replace rotors until they need to be, based on their condition and how much of the surface has been worn away. How many miles and years since the pads and rotors were last replaced?

I bought the car only last year but it came with a pretty good service record however I see no records for brake pads or rotor replacement in the last 6-8 years at least.

The garage told me that in modern cars they no longer re-surface the rotors because they are already thin from the manufacturer.

I don't when that started or if that applies to a CX-9 from 2011. I do have a strange shaking in the car when I brake hard (and sometimes when I brake not so hard too) so I'm wondering if the rotors really need replacement of re-surfacing together with new brake pads since they informed that the pads have only 3mm left.

However I'm trying to evaluate the cost between re-surface and replacing the rotors. AAA does not re-surface so I will have to find another garage that does that.

Cheers.

 

[rowlands57]

Replacing these days is just about the same as the labor for re-surfacing. I was going to say the only reason to replace them is if they are out of spec for thickness or if you have vibration when braking. Since you have some vibration when braking I'd say just swap them out. $800 is pretty reasonable for all 4.

You did not mention your mileage. Are you sure the rears need to be changed, I have found that often the rears need changing on every second change on the fronts.

 

[shadow338]

Replacing these days is just about the same as the labor for re-surfacing. I was going to say the only reason to replace them is if they are out of spec for thickness or if you have vibration when braking. Since you have some vibration when braking I'd say just swap them out. $800 is pretty reasonable for all 4.

You did not mention your mileage. Are you sure the rears need to be changed, I have found that often the rears need changing on every second change on the fronts.

The car has 150K but like I mentioned I have no records of these parts being replaced. I'm most sure that with 150K at least the break pads were replaced at some point though. They mentioned the rear because the rear break pads only have 3mm left and that's when they recommend also replacing the rotors.

I'm not sure what kind of assessment was done on the rotors but replacing rotors every time pads are replaced seems a bit excessive to me.
I know this depend on many factors but on average how many miles a rotor can last without having to be re-surfaced or replaced? I would think they last more than pads.

 

[Tchman2016]

For $250 you can do all four corners with quality new pads AND rotors from rockauto. Do it yourself and save a ton of money. It's so easy. $800 is Ludacris.

 

[edmaz]

You should be able to get you finger to make contact with the outside surface of the rotors, through the wheel spoke openings. Run your finger over as much of the surface as you can, feeling for significant groves or other unevenness. Basically, the smoother the better, however the very outer part (1/2" or so) of the rotor will normally have a rusted ridge that's not an issue.

Post back what you find, perhaps with a pic or two if you post count is high enough to do that. Now this of course is only an inspection of the outside of the rotors and won't tell you anything about the inside surfaces. If you feel comfortable jacking the vehicle at the corner and removing the wheel, that would provide access to inspect the inside rotor surface as well.

 

[theblooms]

The garage told me that in modern cars they no longer re-surface the rotors because they are already thin from the manufacturer.

That is WRONG. That shop simply doesn't own a brake lathe. Mazda's own service manual says that resurfacing the rotors is a completely accepted practice. Hell, most O'Reilly's Auto Parts stores provides the service for only $10 each!

Doing the job yourself, which is only a 2 on the difficulty scale as far as automotive work does, (it's barely harder than changing the oil!), with resurfacing the rotors and using new OEM pads, you're look at like $200 tops.

 

[shadow338]

That is WRONG. That shop simply doesn't own a brake lathe. Mazda's own service manual says that resurfacing the rotors is a completely accepted practice. Hell, most O'Reilly's Auto Parts stores provides the service for only $10 each!

Doing the job yourself, which is only a 2 on the difficulty scale as far as automotive work does, (it's barely harder than changing the oil!), with resurfacing the rotors and using new OEM pads, you're look at like $200 tops.

I'm pretty hands on and I changed brake pads on my Saab 9-3 without issues however I never replaced the rotors.

 

[theblooms]

To change the rotors, simply pull them off. That's literally it. There are no fasters holding them on, just the calipers and lug nuts, which you've already removed to change the pads!

Every so often in salty areas, they will rust stick to the hub. When that happens, hit it with a hammer or kick it with the heel of your shoe.

 

[shadow338]

To change the rotors, simply pull them off. That's literally it. There are no fasters holding them on, just the calipers and lug nuts, which you've already removed to change the pads!

Every so often in salty areas, they will rust stick to the hub. When that happens, hit it with a hammer or kick it with the heel of your shoe.

what's your favorite online shop to order parts for the CX-9?

 

[theblooms]

I don't have a 9, but I do have a MZ5 and a CX5. I use Mazdaswag, Cox Mazda, Med Center Mazda, Werner Mazda, and Quirkparts.

 

[jal142]

To change the rotors, simply pull them off. That's literally it. There are no fasters holding them on, just the calipers and lug nuts, which you've already removed to change the pads!

Every so often in salty areas, they will rust stick to the hub. When that happens, hit it with a hammer or kick it with the heel of your shoe.

This is not correct.

Here's an old thread about replacing rotors on the first generation CX-9:

2008 CX-9 Brake Rotor replacement

I did a How-to with pictures on replacing the front rotors of an '08 CX-9 GT. It's saved as a word document. I can e-mail if someone is interested (RTM). The OEM rotors were shuddering bad (warped) so I replaced it instead of having it turned. :D. I'll give an update periodically on how...

mazdas247.com

The old CX-9 has a couple Phillips head tapered bolts holding the rotors onto the hub. In theory, these are easy to remove. In reality, these fasteners corrode in a lot of cases and have to be drilled out. On a 2011 that's never been touched, I'd bank on these fasteners being seized.

To the OP, I'd recommend pulling a wheel and checking if you can get those fasteners out. If not, you can try some PB blaster and a hammer/impact screwdriver. If that doesn't work, you may have to drill them out. That thread also has some recommendations on rotors and pads.

 

[theblooms]

This is not correct.

Okay then, I stand corrected. I've never seen a Mazda with rotor fasteners, and I'm ony 5th one, 6th if you count my B3000.

This impact driver will remove even the worst stuck screws, and it's pretty inexpensive.

Lisle 29200 3/8" Hand Impact Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)


Oh, and Mazda does NOT use Philips head fasteners on anything, and they never have. They are JIS. This is true for pretty much any Japanese made automobile, and especially Japanese made bikes. And yes, while subtle, there definitely is a difference between Philips and JIS.

I bought a set of Vessel JIS-1, 2, and 3 screwdrivers, and the fit of the bit and torque you can get onto the fastener is so much better.

It's quite possible that the American made CX-50 has switched to Philips, but I seriously doubt it.

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

OK my time to chime in.....
1) The machining of surfacing rotors is not gone in the service industry.
a) Machining when done correctly will make a better surface and completely flat. Or less then .001 runout.
b) It is ALWAYS a good idea to machine a rotor when replacing pads to ensure that you get the best braking and longest rotor and pad life.
c) If in the budget is there have the NEW rotors at least check for runout on a laythe. You would be surprised how many NIB are not as flat as you think.

2) If you are a DIY READ a HOW-TO brake service guide specifically for your platform and model vehicle. DON"T ASSUME that because you have done brakes with past vehicles that it will be the same procedures


As for parts, these days it really is hard to get very poor quality rotors and pads. The pricing structure is all over the map and price does not mean quality parts.
If you are choosing a PAD that is not OEM or OEM specification I strongly suggest NOT to go by what people recommend and do the research about the different qualities and how a brake pad will perform on your vehicle. Everybody has an opinion unfortunately unless they were able to actually try several pad type and material on their vehicle the reviews are in no way truly accurate. In other words their opinions are based mostly from replacing worn brake parts with new parts and naturally they are going to have great things to say about their choice of parts.

ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS do a BED in procedure with your new brake parts and most importantly for the new pads. LOOK on the WWW and read How-to BED in new brakes.

At one time almost every supplier of brake shoes and pads had a little warning about doing this. Now its rare to see that anymore and even more rare is service shops that will do this for their customers before they pick up their vehicle having had a brakes replaced??? We always did, the biggest reason was to insure the brake job was done correctly and that the pads (depending on material of pad used) were quiet.

 

[jal142]

Okay then, I stand corrected. I've never seen a Mazda with rotor fasteners, and I'm ony 5th one, 6th if you count my B3000.

It has a significant amount of Ford DNA, which may explain the arguably useless fasteners.

 

[shadow338]

I'm not seeing rotors cheaper than $75 each and pads for $60. That's $540+tax just in parts. AAA replaces all 4 rotors and brake pads for 800$+tax and I get 10% discount for being a member. So for ~$230 in difference, I think I will pay them for this 5h job.

 

[theblooms]

>$75 each

That's exactly why I have mine turned: $10 each, not $75!

 

[jal142]

I think you can do a bit better than $540 for parts. I just bought rotors and pads from RockAuto:

CENTRIC10512590Brake Pads
CENTRIC10512580 Brake Pads
CENTRIC12045079 Rotors
CENTRIC12045080 Rotors

$436 shipped. You can probably find a 10% off code somewhere for RockAuto, too, although it's been a while since I got any emails with discount codes from them.

These are decent parts, not the best, but certainly not the worst either.

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

I think you can do a bit better than $540 for parts. I just bought rotors and pads from RockAuto:

CENTRIC10512590Brake Pads
CENTRIC10512580 Brake Pads
CENTRIC12045079 Rotors
CENTRIC12045080 Rotors

$436 shipped. You can probably find a 10% off code somewhere for RockAuto, too, although it's been a while since I got any emails with discount codes from them.

These are decent parts, not the best, but certainly not the worst either.

CENTRIC is a good brand. I have used it myself as well on numerous customer rides.

I am not sure what you gauge your assessment of the quality on? Price as I mentioned many times should not be item to consider a scale of quality.

IMHO you made good choice.

Another thing when using Rock Auto ... there pricing of goods is determined by the discount programs they get from the vendors, distributors or even the manufactures. Naturally a higher stocking level will be lower retail price points.