Dealership is going to cost the most. I’d find an independent shop that has good reviews, and you can bring your own parts to them as well if you’re concerned about part selection. I would avoid places that offer like $99 lifetime brake services. I think those places offer lower quality parts and they’ll just swap them out with the same cheap stuff if you wear them out again.I have a quick question I’m looking to replace my brakes as a result of being worn. What is the best place to do them? Or just going to the dealership? Quality and price wise
On average how much is the cost for four full brake pad replacement?Dealership is going to cost the most. I’d find an independent shop that has good reviews, and you can bring your own parts to them as well if you’re concerned about part selection. I would avoid places that offer like $99 lifetime brake services. I think those places offer lower quality parts and they’ll just swap them out with the same cheap stuff if you wear them out again.
It really depends on the shop and what needs to be replaced. Per axle it’ll likely be around $150 to get just the pads replaced. That’ll go up some if you need new rotors. The pads on my CX-5 at 68k miles had around 75% on the front still when the rears had about 25% left. If the brake fluid needs to be flushed, tack at least $75 on top of that. Ballpark figure, $150-$600 depending on shop, parts, extent of what needs to be done. Get a few quotes from reputable shops and have them provide data to back up their quotes like amount of pad remaining.On average how much is the cost for four full brake pad replacement?
I have a quick question I’m looking to replace my brakes as a result of being worn. What is the best place to do them? Or just going to the dealership? Quality and price wise
You don't mention what year your vehicle is, but beware: If you have the EPB (electric parking brake), you MUST put the vehicle into service mode first. Failure to do so can result in rear brake caliper damage, and a whole lot more headaches and money spent.I have a quick question I’m looking to replace my brakes as a result of being worn. What is the best place to do them? Or just going to the dealership? Quality and price wise
The year of my vehicle is 2019 Mazda CX-5 GT. Also another question my car is currently getting close to 60,000 km and I need to do a replacements for all the pads do you need to change the rooters in the same time as the brake pads?You don't mention what year your vehicle is, but beware: If you have the EPB (electric parking brake), you MUST put the vehicle into service mode first. Failure to do so can result in rear brake caliper damage, and a whole lot more headaches and money spent.
If you go to an independent shop, or worse, get your friends to do it, I can pretty much guarantee they won't know about the service mode procedure and will more than likely ruin your brakes. There are lots of horror stories on here about indie shops and friends that thought they knew what they were doing, and ruined the calipers.
Well, replacing rotors is not always necessary, but I highly recommend it. So much depends on condition. You might be able to get them turned down, but these days, rotors are cheap, and also very thin. Not many rotors today have enough excess material on them to allow for turning them.The year of my vehicle is 2019 Mazda CX-5 GT. Also another question my car is currently getting close to 60,000 km and I need to do a replacements for all the pads do you need to change the rooters in the same time as the brake pads?
If all of the quotes are close in price to each other, yeah, you won’t be able to do better than that. The price i was spitballing is SE United States and prices tend to be lower here. As another poster suggested, your local area could be much different. The only way you’ll save money is by DIY but only if you’re comfortable with it. I’m fairly confident in what I do, but I still ended up breaking a bolt on the rear caliper bracket. Stupid mistake, it was the first time I used a new to me harbor freight torque wrench and it doesn’t click crisp and audibly like my other wrench, lol.As this is my first time doing this I got a few quotes for front and back break pads, rotors and labour cost at around 1,000 is that a regular price?
I do mostly city driving my rear pads are pretty bad it’s 2mm considered “unsafe to drive” my front are a bit better I believe it’s 3-4 mm but I heard it’s best to replace all of them at once? And in regards to rotors I have 0 idea and it’s why I’m here. I honestly would like to just replace the pads but if it’s better I don’t mind doing the rotors too.60k km seems low for needing all new pads to be honest. Do you drive a lot in the city? My front pads had plenty of life left at around 70k miles. I’m curious if those shops provided the break pad depth to you.
I wouldn't consider 2mm as "unsafe to drive" but rather "you should get these replaced very soon"I do mostly city driving my rear pads are pretty bad it’s 2mm considered “unsafe to drive” my front are a bit better I believe it’s 3-4 mm but I heard it’s best to replace all of them at once? And in regards to rotors I have 0 idea and it’s why I’m here. I honestly would like to just replace the pads but if it’s better I don’t mind doing the rotors too.
I did my own brakes in my garage using all OEM parts for less than 1/3rd that amount.As this is my first time doing this I got a few quotes for front and back break pads, rotors and labour cost at around 1,000 is that a regular price?
This is 100% the right answer imo. I had to assume the shops who quoted who really thought you needed new rotors. After sleeping on it, they also think you need new pads all around when I think the fronts have life left in them. If the budget is tight, I’d do only the rear axle. I’d have them measure the rear rotor thickness and determine if they’re within spec and go from there. The rotors aren’t breaking the bank for one axle, it’s the labor cost that’s killing you here. Reminding them there is a maintenance mode for working on the rear axle couldn’t hurt either.I wouldn't consider 2mm as "unsafe to drive" but rather "you should get these replaced very soon"
I wouldn't have any issues replacing fronts only or rear only. It's fine to do just one axle but I would NOT do a single brake or a single side.
Rotors have minimum thickness and run out specs as well and the tech should know what they were. Are you having any problems such as pulsing or vibrations? If everything is in spec and no concerns, I'd just put new pads on.
As far as replacing the front pads now (early) that's just a matter of convenience. If the cost isn't as important to you as the time to bring it back later or it's your family truckster and your talking it on vacation this summer just get it done all at once. OTOH, if your budget doesn't have much wiggle room, run them down a couple more mm whilst you monitor them (knowing they'll need done soon).
I'm not a professional mechanic, just a guy (enthusiast) that does his own wrenching on his family fleet plus some others for 40+ years.
I can’t either, but we’re mechanically inclined and have a garage. It’s bills like these that got me into DIY work from the get go. I got a jack and tools for a project years ago instead of paying labor and I’ve been hooked ever since. No shame in having to go to a shop though.I did my own brakes in my garage using all OEM parts for less than 1/3rd that amount.
Sorry, I simply can't see $700+ in labor to replace some brake pads and rotors. Replacing brakes is only one step harder than changing oil. It's literally one of the easiest maintenance items to replace on a car.
Can't emphasize this enough.This is 100% the right answer imo. I had to assume the shops who quoted who really thought you needed new rotors. After sleeping on it, they also think you need new pads all around when I think the fronts have life left in them. If the budget is tight, I’d do only the rear axle. I’d have them measure the rear rotor thickness and determine if they’re within spec and go from there. The rotors aren’t breaking the bank for one axle, it’s the labor cost that’s killing you here. Reminding them there is a maintenance mode for working on the rear axle couldn’t hurt either.