FS-DE Oil System

Sorry I cant speak from experience, but I personally would not recommend it. Think about the size of the fittings on the sandwich plate. They are made for sensors... WAY too small. The pump is able to kick out enough pressure to make my AN-12 lines flow with no problems and much more room to go. Thats 3/4" lines versus the what? 1/8" or 1/4" npt? It just wouldnt be worth doing if you went that route. Besides, they could not have picked a worse place for the oil filter on our car. You want to relocate it regardless!

I completely agree with you, was leaning toward the relocation as it was lol.

Any certain brand of relocation kit that is better than others? Or just go with an ebay special?
 
I completely agree with you, was leaning toward the relocation as it was lol.

Any certain brand of relocation kit that is better than others? Or just go with an ebay special?

Heres the one I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I modified the hell out of it though. I used my die grinder to eliminate the sharp edges inside and made the passages way bigger for smoother flow. I also bought AN-12 lines and had Tom ship the regulator with AN-12 fittings on it. Drives the price up a bit on the whole install, but to me the added capacity was worth it. Plus I wanted to see if the pump could handle it, and it does VERY well. I have a HUGE Peterson oil filter (washable stainless mesh) and a nice size Setrab oil cooler in the system as well. The pump handles all this so easily! Easily the best upgrade EVER!
 

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okay i just read through the first post and the last 3 or 4 pages trying to figure this out, how exactly does this get rid of the pressure drop? i thought this was a dry sump system but i dont see any info about a dry sump tank anywhere so i guess i was wrong there

im pretty interested in this, a local guy has this system and it looks pretty awesome and works great, just havent had a chance to ask about the specifics so ill do it here
thanks!
 
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okay i just read through the first post and the last 3 or 4 pages trying to figure this out, how exactly does this get rid of the pressure drop? i thought this was a dry sump system but i dont see any info about a dry sump tank anywhere so i guess i was wrong there

im pretty interested in this, a local guy has this system and it looks pretty awesome and works great, just havent had a chance to ask about the specifics so ill do it here
thanks!

The whole issue is the internal pressure relief valve on the stock oil pump sends the bypassed oil directly back into the oil pump gears, creating cavitation of the oil. This results in a pressure drop after sustained high rpm.

Toms system disables the internal valve and adds an external unit that is adjustable... this is not a dry sump system.

The external valve then sends the bypassed oil to the oil pan, rather than back into the oil pump itself.
 
Heres the one I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I modified the hell out of it though. I used my die grinder to eliminate the sharp edges inside and made the passages way bigger for smoother flow. I also bought AN-12 lines and had Tom ship the regulator with AN-12 fittings on it. Drives the price up a bit on the whole install, but to me the added capacity was worth it. Plus I wanted to see if the pump could handle it, and it does VERY well. I have a HUGE Peterson oil filter (washable stainless mesh) and a nice size Setrab oil cooler in the system as well. The pump handles all this so easily! Easily the best upgrade EVER!

did you think the -10 lines were insufficient? Or just wanted to see how it would handle it?

Basically, for my street build, will the -10 lines be sufficient for me?
 
ahhh okay, makes sense...i dont know where i got the dry sump idea from lol
thanks for the help!

Tom's system coupled with a gated oil pan is the next best thing. With a dry sump system there are several nuances to deal with.

Lets not forget about the coating that he has done to the pump. This takes care of the wearing out issue as well as raising its capability. Their race car oil pump used to only last a race or two, now its been thru a couple seasons with the coating.
 
Tom quick question on the PRV. Are there different ways to hook the PRV up to our Systems? I was looking over a thread on the forum and noticed it was not hooked up an all three hookups. Can the return line be eliminated or does it need to be there? Just curious.
 
Tom quick question on the PRV. Are there different ways to hook the PRV up to our Systems? I was looking over a thread on the forum and noticed it was not hooked up an all three hookups. Can the return line be eliminated or does it need to be there? Just curious.

Not sure what thread you are referring to but all three ports do need to be hooked up. The ports are:

1) oil suppy in - supplies oil from the system to the regulator (external PRV here)
2) oil supply out - takes oil from the regulator out to the rest of the system
3) return line - when the system for whatever reason has an event where the oil pressure spikes above the set maximum point on the regulator, the valve in the regulator will open and allow oil out of the system to reduce this overpressure below the max point. This "bypassed" oil needs somewhere to go, the return line takes the bypassed oil back to the oil pan

Hope this helps??
 
No yea I know the workings of the valve. Its just I saw a member on here only use two and a cap on one of the ends. Just curious. Thanks Tom.
 
Tom, my new OEM pump is coming tomorrow, and ill be shipping it out to you first thing Tuesday morning.
 
Tom, I've been looking at pumps and want to know if i should get an oem from mazda or would one from napa work as good?

Thanks
 
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