BOV help

[socal23]

I'm new to the turbo scene so this is all a different language to me.
I read up a lot on BOVs and i have a few questions.
1) Which BOV can i use on VTA and have the least sound under normal driving conditions but most on WOT?
2) What is the difference with a forged BOV?
http://www.***************/Forge_BOV_MAZDASPEED_Protege_p/fmdvmsp01.htm

for info ill use that write up for installing the BOV to get rid of the turkey sound on plastic pipes.

Does anyone have vids or sound clips of a Greddy type S or RS and a HKS SSQV on our cars. Or any other type of BOV.

Any other info you guys have would be much appreciated (cheers)

 

[socal23]

I'm leaning more towards the forged BOV just because its a hassle free installation. Will this get rid of the turkey sound seeing how it replaces the stock one?
I wont lie i do love the sound of the BOVs even if they sound kinda ricer...does the forge have that whistle of the HKS and chirp of the Greddy or is it just a woosh???

 

[PhonyEVO_1]

Whats up man. In regards to the forged BOV, I've came across some threads that said it didn't eliminate the Turkey call... I just ordered an HKS BOV, and some hardpipes from turbohoses.com. I read a couple threads that said HKS was a good choice and I read a few reviews at protegegarage.com that were all good results. Not trying to say Forge is bad or anything. I'm new to the turbo scene too. I also got an HKS because it was a b-day gift, so I kind of had no choice. I came across another thread and now I'm sort of following this guys write up, as he seems to know what he's doing:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40956&highlight=kill+turkeys
Don't know if that helps.. Here are a couple links to clips of some BOV's:
Here is HKS SSQ BOV:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBZL0p4Q-mQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoTzJaTGGeU
Forge BOV:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3H9POV4CEkE&feature=related
Here is another MSP with Forged BOV, but this car may have other mods:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XTVEdBr5o4&NR=1

 

[mgerst1]

the forge can get rid of it you just need to run the green spring that comes with the bov and make sure you are running off of a dedicated vac line (tap into brake booster line) if you want a forge bov I am selling a used one that i bought from a forum member and had installed for a week when i decided i couldnt bring myself to cut into my turbohoses hardpipes and that i needed to find another way to get rid of the turkey. If you want it check out the fs thread in my sig i am selling with everything but extra vac line (wasnt given to me when i bought it) that you get from forge or protegegarage.com. selling price is $130.00 shipped in the U.S. Might be more based on how much customs are if shipped out of U.S.

 

[mgerst1]

if you have plastic pipes it may be hard to run anything other than the forge bov because you have nothing to weld flanges to, but im not sure so dont take me on my word about that.

 

[cmahlig]

If yall want my opinion on the forge, its not that great. When driving over 75 mph it will blow open, it causes stalling since you are not recirculating. The best two options are these.
1. run a dual setup, meaning keep the stock bpv in place and put a hks bov on your coldpipe. you will need an aluminum cold pipe with the flange on it.
2 relocate your maf to the coldpipe. in order from throttle body to intercooler...maf then hks bov.

these are the best setups if you want to run a bov

the hks is the best one imo

if you want to buy my forge, i will sell it for 60 shipped. if you want it, i will make a fs thread with a picture

 

[Velocifero]

The APEXi twin chamber is pretty quiet, but a bit of a whoosh when WOT. You'll need hard pipes for most BOV applications.

 

[socal23]

thanks for all the info you guys
ya i do like the sound of the forge but then again the HKS owns lol
now on installation which is an easier set up? i have stock plastic pipes and most likely will not go metal...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47267&highlight=kill+turkey+sound

i read this and it looks legit what do you guys think on that set up?

 

[mgerst1]

i dont know but if you want to run a bov you could do the maf relocate with plastic pipes you would just need to drill into the plastic coldpipe for the temp sensor and get two couplers and clamps. then just take the stock bpv off and put a bov in the place of the bpv. however this means you would have to run the forge bov to do this since it is designed to be placed in the stock location. buy mine! lol

 

[mgerst1]

are you running stock airbox or do you have a cai or sri

 

[socal23]

after some thought i do not want an HKS in my car
what are your thoughts on the Greddy Type S?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvrqaVEn5tk

i really like this set up

 

[socal23]

are you running stock airbox or do you have a cai or sri

i have a CAI
basically the forge is the only way to go? i mean that write up keeps the BVP in place but adds the BOV

 

[socal23]

If i were to install a forge in place of the BVP, which will kill the turkey sound, and cause no problems? Why are people getting rid of their forge BOVs then????

personally i dont care which one both are legit but which one will be the hassle free set up to get rid of the turkey sound and add flare?

 

[SpeedElixir]

i am getting rid of my Forge for cosmetic reasons. It is a show car and I need to change up a couple of things...as far as performance...NO turkey and NO complaints.

 

[mgerst1]

i dont know of anyone else running that setup. contact the person who started the thread and ask if it still works well. if it works then i would do it. people get rid of the forge for a few reasons

1. unless you run dual or do a maf relocate the forge like any bov will give you stalling issues. (going from blowoff to a stop right away the car wants to stall)

2. if you follow their directions and use the stock vacuum line the bpv used the bov will still cause flutter because the vacuum line is also feeding the wga. you have to run a seperate line for the bov by tapping into the brake booster line.

3. people dont want the whoosh noise it makes because it is similar to the bpv and they want the noise from the hks or synapse

4. people dont like the way it works and it is not one that already has a flange that they can use to run on a coldpipe or something like that. you have to fabricate one.

 

[PhonyEVO_1]

after some thought i do not want an HKS in my car
what are your thoughts on the Greddy Type S?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvrqaVEn5tk

i really like this set up

That does sound good... Pretty loud for stock boost and only having an Injen CAI and Greddy exhaust on.... almost hard to believe when compared to all the other vid's of the stock MSP with an aftermarket BOV. But hey, I'm a rookie bia in the Turbo world, I've only driven my buddy's STI which has almost NO bov woosh noise (stock bov), and my other friends MSP with the turkey call, who I bought the car from. A mazdaspeed 5 drove by me the other day and had the loudest BOV noise I've ever heard.... it was ridiculous, he said he was running a Greddy BOV. So maybe greddy does give the louder WOOOOOSH...if thats what your looking for.

I should have my turbohoses hardpipe kit and HKS SSQ BOV put on by early next week on Monday... that is if shipping comes in on time by the end of this week. I'll try and post a sound clip/vid once it's all put on.

 

[socal23]

i dont know of anyone else running that setup. contact the person who started the thread and ask if it still works well. if it works then i would do it. people get rid of the forge for a few reasons

1. unless you run dual or do a maf relocate the forge like any bov will give you stalling issues. (going from blowoff to a stop right away the car wants to stall)

2. if you follow their directions and use the stock vacuum line the bpv used the bov will still cause flutter because the vacuum line is also feeding the wga. you have to run a seperate line for the bov by tapping into the brake booster line.

3. people dont want the whoosh noise it makes because it is similar to the bpv and they want the noise from the hks or synapse

4. people dont like the way it works and it is not one that already has a flange that they can use to run on a coldpipe or something like that. you have to fabricate one.

the set up sounds like it should work because all your doing is tapping into the cold pipe and still keeping the bpv. The bpv will still release the pressure needed and the added bov will let out the residual air while deleting the turkey call. The forge replaces the bvp so why would there be any problems wont it do the same thing as the bpv but just with added noise?? I dont know seems like im doubting how either set up will cause stalling...but again im a noob lol

 

[mgerst1]

im not doubting the setup in the other thread im just saying it is always a good idea to ask the person who posts things like that if it is still working or if it caused any problems since the thread is kind of old. the reason you cant just throw the forge bov on in place of the bpv without relocating the maf is that the maf is reading air coming from the opening of your cai. it then tells the car how much air there is and then it calculates how much fuel to add. when you run a bov after the maf without a bpv recirculating some of that air is discharged which means the engine is now getting too much fuel and not enough air causing combustion to be off making it want to stall (kind of like taking oxygen away and trying to light a match, no oxygen no boom in the engine, lol) i had the forge bov on without relocating the maf just for the hell of it to see what all the uproar was concerning stalling issues. using the green spring the rpm's were a little bit lower and the stalling would occur if i was coming to a stop and i had just discharged the excess air. unless i tapped my gas pedal before coming to a stop my rpms would dip towards zero and i would either stall or the needle would bounce back up. it did get to be annoying.

 

[socal23]

i had the forge bov on without relocating the maf just for the hell of it to see what all the uproar was concerning stalling issues. using the green spring the rpm's were a little bit lower and the stalling would occur if i was coming to a stop and i had just discharged the excess air. unless i tapped my gas pedal before coming to a stop my rpms would dip towards zero and i would either stall or the needle would bounce back up. it did get to be annoying.

Wow thanks for all the info bro
that sounds legit too
what would be the proper way of avoiding this? i will ask the guy if his set up still works and if it does ill go in that direction but if its sketchy ill need another path. Where would i relocate the MAF to?? After that i would have to recirculate the forge correct? that kind of confuses me when its recirculated its recirculating into the intake or cold pipe??

 

[mgerst1]

the forge cannot be recirculated plus when you relocate the maf you dont need to recirculate it. you would just cap off the nipple on the intake pipe (i used a reducing piece of silicone line to connect to the smaller nipple but put the plug provided with the bov in the other end and clamped both ends) the maf would move to the cold pipe (not sure how far from the throttle body) you basically cut a section out of it, use couplers to attach the maf and drill a hole for the temp sensor. other than that you need to plug the hole in your sri that the temp sensor was in but that is it. search for maf relocation threads on here, the process is the same for aluminum harpipes and plastic (at least that makes sense since hardpipes are harpipes)