zhy's progress followup [student budget!]

I will scrap the whole rusted rear fender replace it with a fiberglass one so that shouldn't rust anymore. as for the frame rails if I find too much rust I'll just cut the rusted sections and weld new metal. I'll probably get it from a salvage yard so I know this metal will have the same rigidity. I hope the car isn't going to bend or something if I temporarily removed a small section of the frame rail right? My objective is just to keep the car solid for another few years on the cheap, I'm definitively not bringing it to a body shop nor stripping the car to the bare frame and rust proof it from there, this will be for another project car ;)
 
I don't know about the bending but I'm sure it's possible. I worry about that too,.. there is a lot of holes and reduced metal thickness everywhere on my car so I wonder what would happen in an accident. I can hear my car creaking and even see it bending when I jack up my car, but I think that's normal, even for a new car.
Making a fiberglass fender sounds hard to me,... I always used the car itself as the mold and don't even know where to start with a complete fabrication. Tamn's thread covers a lot of fiberglassing and he learned by doing so it's really helpful. Even he used the original part to make the mold. If the metal is still on the car and wrapped with fiberglass that is well feathered onto good metal for a good distance, it doesn't really matter if it keeps rusting. It's hidden, not part of the structure anymore and fiberglass doesn't rust.

I suck at welding I just burn holes, it makes a great metal cutter for me though. I'm not too good at body work either,... both of those are a real artform and need a lot of practice. It's really quite different and separate from general mechanics.

OOPPS I missed your earlier post,... we're on a new page now. So disregard the irrelevant.

I just saw the links and I've got some reading to do. I'll be sure to inform myself before starting a thread. Thanks bikingpro5 for the help.
 
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Sorry Zhy,... I'm still diverting,.. haven't started rust thread yet,... no camera yet,... haven't done my homework yet,... But as luck would have it, my roof sprung a leak yesterday and started dripping into my living room,.... So I had my excuse to go get some roof patch and with the grease and varsol I've already got, I'm gonna whip up a concoction much like the recipe provided in nicqcrenaud's link. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2043211&page=1 only I'm going for a thicker gooier mess.
I have no idea what the hell I'm doing cause I'm making it up as I go. I'm thinking it's gonna work !!

It came to $13.97 for one US gallon so I'm liking the cost effectiveness already.

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cool let us know how it goes. I've searched a bit and there aren't much good DIY rust repair threads, mostly thread just showing rust and asking questions not much on some repair action. If you don't start a rust thread I intend to make a fiberglass rust repair thread when I finish the semester this month. I find some cool metal pieces called FlexEdging for fender repairs at canadian tire, they bend in with the curve of the fender and it should help me rebuilding the broken bits for fiberglass repair.
 
You're gonna apply the underbody rustproof on your pannels? I dont think thats the best way to go dude...
 
No,... not the panels,... I'm only doing the underside with my homemade goop.
I might leave the other stuff for a couple of months.
That's not gonna help nicqcrenaud much but I don't have any holes in the body panels big enough to need fiberglass anyway.
Perhaps I can do a bit of a fiberglass how-to when I work on my windsurfer but I'm gonna have to learn all about youtube to do that,.... I'm new to the Googly.
 
I'm debating about my recipe for my goop. I'm wondering whether or not to use mineral spirits (oil based product,.. varsol, paint thinner, etc.) or acetone to thin out my concoction.

I'm thinking acetone might work better because it will thin out the goop to make it really spreadable but then will evaporate out of the stuff to leave a thicker, stickier coating behind. Varsol (which is a lot cheaper) may leave the stuff thinned out permanently.

Is there any backyard chemists out there with any opinions ????
 
good to here your finally tackling the rust problem... it looks as though you've got a lot of work ahead... and yay another MCM supporter. finally something decent to come out of Aus since Jen Hawkins lol.
 
After
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Finally got done modifying my coolant overflow bracket and intake, + finally added the k&n filter
weird spot, but its DIY!
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ooo.. look what came in through the mail today!
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As you can see on my last cluster pictures, needles were broken(cant place them back in their socket)
so I had to buy a new cluster, which i did. And then decided to paint the needles BLACK.

Before
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During
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Voila
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Needles look really ninja, but I see them clearly at night, picture doesnt justify the real color (as alwais..!)

The gauges look sweet! Could you possibly put together a tut for this?
 
Been pretty busy these times.. I kinda have this love-hate relationship with my car, mostly towards the rust
My car this morning! Changed the fog light bulbs (H3 55W) and did the lumin-X as well
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*my driver-side mirror got smashed again* as you can see with the tape lol... gonna have to fix that too

YES rust will be dealt with accordingly soon.. lol, makes my car look horrible

to-do list for this summer lol.. Foglight mod is coming soon this week, we're also moving houses this week so the protg5 has been kinda handy, lots of room for boxes :)
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I love the list on the wall hahaha

Also, diggin the yellow foglights. I feel like since the P5 came with foglights that are just ridiculously big, it's only right if they're yellow while they're at it (2thumbs)
 
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