Zack Mac's P5

Been having a few problems with this vehicle recently. Nothing major or that isn't fixable. I have a very strong urge to build this car, either that or I must sell it. Let me know what you guys think keeping in mind my situation.
I have my 2003 P5 with 107k miles now as you can see in this thread. I also have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (auto) with ~80k miles sitting in my driveway collecting rust. Uninsured and unregistered. I need to get rid of one of these cars.
Here is what I have been thinking... As both cars sit now, the honda is much more reliable, but also much less fun. The honda is also worth more (I have both cars on craigslist and have received only a few hits on the mazda and every day people ask about the honda). I could sell the mazda HOPEFULLY for ~$5000 as is. That way, I could spend roughly 1000 to get the honda up and running with a decent sound system. OR, and this one is what gives me goosebumps, I could sell the honda for ~$6000 or maybe even more. This leaves me with a few options. I could completely rebuild my mp5 into what i've always wanted (turbo fsde with a BUILT engine). OR, sell the honda, look for a cheap msp locally and transfer either the turbo onto my p5 or gut my p5 and build another msp. I had a msp previously but then things happened and now I have a p5. I would love to use the money from the honda (im thinking around $6000) and build up my engine or purchase one already built. I would want to turbo it though. Any thoughts haha hopefully I can decide soon and get parts all winter and build it next summer.
 
lol pretty obvious what kind of responses you're going to get here :p

but at the end of the day which makes you happier?
 
Haha, I shouldve known that was coming :p

Anyways after replacing coils and wires with new ones it didn't misfire directly from startup and seemed to idle fine but the CEL was still on (solid). since it is for sale i disconnected the battery to throw off the cel. long story short, my battery bit the dust. tried 2 different battery chargers, nothing. jumped it and kept it on for a half hour, as soon as i shut it off, tick tick tick tick. time for a new battery.
the rpm gauge was doing some really funky stuff, stuttering... posted a video on the facebook teampro5 page. now im really wondering since i need to get a new battery later today if all this money im putting into it just to sell it will be worth it... pushing me towards a rebuild hmmm
 
Got a brand new battery... car won't start. I can start it off of a jump. But as soon as i shut her down she can't start on her own. starter? ecu? fuel pump? give me a hand guys! it used to just click/tick but now it wont even do that
 
Was the battery tested before you installed it? If not then the battery could've been "new" but not started or run in a vehicle ever since it was put in the store, and depending on that time period maybe it lost its charge. If not the battery, then id think alternator, as seemingly it runs off a jump but cannot charge itself enough to turn off then on again.
 
had a bad connection at the terminals. feel kind of dumb now haha, just didnt double check.
 
just arrived
F4k3pWU.jpg


getting the rest Wednesday will show pictures
 
Turbo!

Finally got around to do this, figured I would take pictures along the way so that maybe it could help people who plan to do this in the future. this thread is awesome for mechanical parts and how to run everything, also used this thread for reference to intercooler piping. now people can use this post haha. anyways, here we go!

135_zps6bd404e1.jpg

Before

133_zpsdd8dc388.jpg

Oh no! Cast iron snapped on the oil inlet on the turbo

136_zpsbc8fb914.jpg

Its alright... maybe some JB Weld will hold up...

138_zpse9ad6039.jpg

Lets hope that theres no leaks!

141_zps48468244.jpg

Ebay fmic piping... quite possible the best routing ever done on a p5, just saying... LOL!

213_zps2995d11a.jpg

Long story short, thought I was done and was ready to go... JB weld failed and leak galore. shops couldn't weld it, not enough meat. Got a replacement CHRA from the g-pop shop, very good service from them!

217_zps94542f70.jpg

While I waited a week for the replacement CHRA to come in, I decided I better do it right this time... 1.5" notched crash bar for better fitment

218_zpsbce2f413.jpg

Just like the picture says... cut it out so the 90* couplers I ordered would feed nice and smooth like

221_zpsfa96eb54.jpg

wasnt sure what to do on drivers side, wanted to run up the hole for the CAI, but ended up cutting this out. very good decision!
Notice the location of the A/C cylinder. this will need to be moved (see in later pictures). I disconnected both lines then rotated the cylinder 90* backwards, keeping the top facing forwards. use a self tapper and stock bracket to mount it in place, then bend the lines carefully to meet the top of it. the top of the cylinder should be facing forwards now.

225_zpsa1b195b1.jpg

This needs to be moved up.. used a self tapper to get it as high as i could to allow clearance in the cut i made

222_zps7d53325e.jpg

Make sure you take out this bolt and another one that are holding the lines in place... if i tried to bend mine they would SNAP!

247_zps47c2c2b4.jpg

This is, imo, ideal placement for any fmic on a protege (depending on size of core)

Some pics of how I routed it... I had an ebay piping kit with straight couplers and 2 of each of the following: straight pipe, U bend pipe, 90*, 45*
I ordered 2x 90* couplers and 2x 45* couplers.... for future reference I would recommend getting 3 of each to make your life a lot easier. i used both 90s off the intercooler and both 45s on the hot side so the cold side wasnt as good as it could have been but hey it still works

hot side
248_zpse1b9c47c.jpg


249_zpsfc957abb.jpg


254_zpsaebb0905.jpg


253_zps9da7899f.jpg

(from underneath)

244_zps0ad78a8c.jpg


cold side:
255_zpsfad214c0.jpg


260_zps4174c6e2.jpg


262_zps3b79a6ea.jpg

cold air routing... notice the a/c cylinder relocated

263_zpsc22d0ab9.jpg

some more cold air

261_zps13686ddd.jpg

but in the end i decided to go short ram... i can interchange whenever i want with those pipes i cut and couplers. maybe in the summer

236_zpsc66017b1.jpg

And here she is with the bumper on, such perfect fitment!

Road ready! I still need to redo my vac lines because I didn;t use the brake booster line. Probably going to run the BOV off the brake booster and also the wastegate . right now i have them both off the nipple sticking out of the top of the intake manifold.

More pics in my photobucket album

and more pics and vids to come once i perfect my project
 
Last edited:
also how did you attach the intercooler to the bar? also how are you going about with the oil return line? so far your build is coming out great and im asking because im planning on turbocharging soon as well
 
1415409019_zps0e6d0baf.jpg


1415409036_zps3266c61b.jpg


1415409028_zps2fc2be21.jpg


my headlights are due for a scrubbin




also how did you attach the intercooler to the bar? also how are you going about with the oil return line? so far your build is coming out great and im asking because im planning on turbocharging soon as well

the crash bar has a top, bottom, and middle flat horizontal layer going all the way across. i notched it up to the middle one front and back side. measured and drilled holes into the middle layer and cut areas on the back of the crash bar to get a wrench on the drilled hole with a bolt and washers.

for the oil return i used the turbo -> oil rerturn fitting from atp turbo as listed in this thread. give that a good read if you havent already. it took me a long time to research everything i needed to know and acquire all the pieces before starting the project
 
Back