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- 03' Mazda Protege 5
I just ported my intake manifold and I have a question... Would it hert if I didn't polish it as well?? It feels just as rough as the inside of the intake manifold.
XelderX's Intake Porting
- Thread starter xelderx
- Start date
mazdaspeed777 said:
I used an emery wheel for my dremel on mine. After I did the main porting with the rotary burr I used the small sanding cylinder to clean it up and then hit it with the emery wheel. This left a pretty smooth surface, but it was far from a mirror polish. I don't think there is anything to be gained from a high polish on the intake manifold or intake ports. It's just too much work for extremely small gain if any.
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- 03' Mazda Protege 5
xelderx said:
Thats what I figured. I think I am just going to try and install it without pollishing it. I would but I can't find my sanding drum bits for my dremel.
So onto my next question. I installed an intake manifold thermal spacer and now when I install the intake manifold back on there my EGR tube just bearally won't reach the headers. But if I try and connect the EGR tube first to the headers then try and install the intake manifold I can't move the lower section of the intake manifold enough to put the upper part back on. Now it seems that the EGR tube won't reach because of the thermal spacer but so many people have installed these before with now problem. I think mainly because most people don't disconnect there EGR tube from there headers when they are doing it, but I had to disconnect mine because I installed new OBX headers. Is there something I am doing wrong?? Does anyone have any suggestions?? Need help ASAP!
WOW, sorry i just noticed that i made no sense with that last post. well i sort of did, lol. I am still looking for a good dyno place in oklahoma. if anyone knows of one tell me. Me and sam talked about it and maybe i did lose some power in the early rpms but it's not noticable...at least for me...anyone with an es wanna race? lol , anyways since i'm running n/a for now , i really want to do a dyno on my car to see whats up with it.
WRCprotege
Member
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- 03 Protege5 91 miata
i did mine myself at 3.5mm wider total and 2.5mm taller total..1.75mm on each side and 1.25mm on top and bottom..i have a headers, intake,midpipe,exhuast, and MP3 ECU..my power has been improved from the porting of the head and intake mani but i lost some low end snap and initial mid range punch (response).. the power in the upper end feels like make 5whp but the power band has moved up to, 3600 rpm is used to come on but now its like 4200.. i did alot of reseach first before i started,i only wanted to help the upper end without hurting the low, but a little to much was taken off.. i run deals gap 2-3 times a year and autocross, so my mid range TQ is a MUST not big HP numbers..i guess im going to cam it next, then it fit the head that iv created... hehehe..start small and give it a try if you need or want more then remove it and continue working.. thus if i had to some it up with one sentence.. smaller size,more air speed=more tq and bigger size,slower air speed, more air,bigger hp and high rpms..the key is to match the size to your needs, thus the art of tuning.....but its always good to see someone trying to improve things and i have no idea what will happen, so good luck and please keep me posted with your results, i still have an other head that i may improve on..lol
I'm looking at getting a set of gears as well. On my last dyno sheet I had max torque (126) at 3800 rpms and it stayed above 120 wtq from 3300-5100. I'm happy with my results so far. I would like to get a little more power in the lower range to help me pull out of the low 2nd gear corners. Hopefully the cam gears will sort that out for me. My car does spend a lot of time high in the rev range though. I ran a course last year where I pegged the rev limiter 3 times in 2nd gear. My car grips so good that I can carry a lot of corner speed and keep the rpms up on corner exit.
WRCprotege
Member
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- 03 Protege5 91 miata
yup , same deal here..that dead bottom end of 2nd gets me a few times a year at auto-x... its a little worse after the port, but only for a second, then power comes back into play.. your not doing the hole thing that large so, try it out and see what comes of it.. my car set up for deals gap-(roadrace).. thats what i love, and plan to build a car that does that well..good power every where, though now the car so much faster in the corners that i find myself 5000 plus rpms most of the time, on that road.. hints the port work.. seems good for now, cams and cam gears are next, with light flywheel, that will be it for me as far as power goes..keep me posted.. thanks, jason
Maybe we can hook up at the Gap sometime. I try to go at least once a year. I want to go try out my 245/45-16 Kooks there. I had a blast on 225s outrunning a few motorcycles (wish that dude wasn't too embarrased to post the video). Now I've got even more lateral grip. Just need to dial in a little more power to pull them around.
WRCprotege
Member
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- 03 Protege5 91 miata
245s!!!! hell ya.. i run 215-45 azenis on the stock wheels, they do well, only i use over half the front tires life at the gap.. about 700-800 miles while im ther driving on ther roads, so thats alot of hard miles on them.. but 245s dam, thats hella grip..let me know next trip you plan,ill do the same.. i aways go for the miatas at the gap event, which is at the end of july, and then in the fall, somethimes spring-tires pending 
starscream2k1
Member
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- 2007 CWP Mazdaspeed3
bump this... read thru all of it. not much on a MSP and JUST porting the intake mani (and not the head). I am thinking to remove the VICS/VCTS (whichever is the one w/ the butterfiles that you remove...cant remember which one it is). And porting the intake man. Cant do the head as i dont have a spare or the cash.
What do you guys think? I understand a good amount from here...but most if it was all NA, would i encounter the same issues with FI? (FYI GT25R stock msp Turbo pushing stock to 10 psi).
What do you guys think? I understand a good amount from here...but most if it was all NA, would i encounter the same issues with FI? (FYI GT25R stock msp Turbo pushing stock to 10 psi).
you main problem will be the block strength when boosting. Unless you reinforce the structure in the block itself, you will blow up the engine when pushing much over 7psi. That is based on what I've read here. I put a turbo kit on mine, and I'm limiting to 7 for when I buy a new spring, and mine will be stronger than yours because your 2.0 is a bored and stroked 1.8. I have ported my head on intake and exhaust side. Correction, I had a shop do it for me.
starscream2k1
Member
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- 2007 CWP Mazdaspeed3
I have most if not all supporting mods. I am strictly speaking on the intake mani and porting it. NOT on overall HP or the reliablity of my block
THanks anyhow bro.I was pretty sure the FP 1.8 is a destroked FS (85mm v 92mm stroke)with the same 83mm bore. FP's rods are 6mm shorter too, giving a slightly better rod ratio. Also has a lower compression ratio if the same piston is used. eg AU spec FS has 9.7:1 and FP has 9.1:1 with the same piston part number.
I have most if not all supporting mods. I am strictly speaking on the intake mani and porting it. NOT on overall HP or the reliablity of my block
i just realized you said MSP up there, too, so nevermind in any case
except the FS didn't exist before the FP. FP was 99-2000 models, FS was 01+; this is the 3rd gen protege, the FP was in the 2nd gen pros also.
hehe, right now, I'm nothing. I have the exhaust side torn apart. My manifold was cracked and warped. It's now repaired, but I have to put everything back together. I also need to order new gaskets for my wastegate and turbo... There's more I need to do, but that's the major work
