WTF is wrong with my car????
- Thread starter bradboyd80
- Start date
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- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
This smells better now
from what Brad just said I lean toward a fuel strangulation mebbe even as simple as the strainer in the tank
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- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
no s***, but he is at Ferman, so lube donations are welcome
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- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
Brad,
clear the existing codes
drive the car
soon as it s**** the bed, read the fresh code
call Me an Steve
clear the existing codes
drive the car
soon as it s**** the bed, read the fresh code
call Me an Steve
bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
Well I have a DH, but its on the fritz. Hell, I had someone offer to let me use theirs (^^^)but the dealer is blocking me. They said they will not let me mess with the car while its on their lot. If I want to trouble shoot it myself, I have to move it off their lot.
I'm not sure if they cleared the old codes. I do know that one problem can trigger 5 or 6 codes. I think they're just feeding me bulls*** because they don't think I know any better. I'm going to talk to the service manager tomorrow. I will NOT pay additional just because they pulled a lot of codes. That's absolutely absurd. I can look the codes up myself and eliminate duplicates. Then narrow it down from there.
I'm not sure if they cleared the old codes. I do know that one problem can trigger 5 or 6 codes. I think they're just feeding me bulls*** because they don't think I know any better. I'm going to talk to the service manager tomorrow. I will NOT pay additional just because they pulled a lot of codes. That's absolutely absurd. I can look the codes up myself and eliminate duplicates. Then narrow it down from there.
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bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
I am heavily considering that man. If they don't want to play ball tomorrow, I'm going to do just that. You doing anything tomorrow? LOL
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- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
torturing old people for 12hrs, free after that
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- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
For the group, I had another thought, doesnt the car start in open loop and switch to closed when it sees the correct sensor picture?
IF that is the case, perhaps Brads car is running ok in open, and shutting itself of when it switches to closed
is there a way to trick it into staying in open loop ?
IF that is the case, perhaps Brads car is running ok in open, and shutting itself of when it switches to closed
is there a way to trick it into staying in open loop ?
bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
Update:
Got the "list" of codes from the dealer. They are straight up trying to screw me. Told me yesterday that they pulled 13 codes from the car. Picked up a copy of the "list" and the only engine codes are P2127 and P2128; accelerator pedal position sensor no. 2 high and low input. So it sounds like I just have a bad pedal. There are a bunch of U and B codes but from what I'm told, those are interior codes (like ABS, IC, etc) which mean nothing.
So with that said, its time to go and have a talk with the service manager. Bad thing is that the pedal assembly is gonna cost me about $700-$800 unless I find one at a junk yard or something.
Got the "list" of codes from the dealer. They are straight up trying to screw me. Told me yesterday that they pulled 13 codes from the car. Picked up a copy of the "list" and the only engine codes are P2127 and P2128; accelerator pedal position sensor no. 2 high and low input. So it sounds like I just have a bad pedal. There are a bunch of U and B codes but from what I'm told, those are interior codes (like ABS, IC, etc) which mean nothing.
So with that said, its time to go and have a talk with the service manager. Bad thing is that the pedal assembly is gonna cost me about $700-$800 unless I find one at a junk yard or something.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
Glad you arent letting the dealer screw you! Before replacement, try unplugging it and cleaning the contacts, etc. If that doesnt work, take apart the pedal itself and clean the sensing unit. Nothing to lose if you end up ******* it up.
bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
Yeah, but the dealer will not let me touch it while its on their lot. God forbid if I get under there and fix it myself. Then they're out money. Oh yeah, and I just finished talking to the dealer again. They now want to charge me $299 for the diagnostic + $99. The service manager said my CAI is causing wiring issues with the ECU. LMAO!!! He said he needs to give his tech 4 hrs to locate the problem. WTF?!?!?! I'm done. I'm about to call the general manager and complain, and then call a tow truck to get it back here to my garage. They just brought a whole new meaning to the term "stealership".
bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
Ok fellas, I've got a 3-day weekend coming up. Those of you living in Brandon/Riverview/Tampa area.....Can I get some help working on the car this weekend? Beer and Pizza will be provided free of cost (depending on the number of volunteers since I'm strapped as it is). Going to probably be ordering a new pedal assembly and pray that it fixes my problem. If it doesn't, I'm screwed, and will probably have to get it towed back to the dealer. But paying $400 in advance is just stupid. Especially when the reason they want to look at the wiring makes no sense at all.
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- 2008.5 MS3
maybe if somebody local with a speed3 would be willing to swap out their pedal assembly with yours and see if that is the issue before ordering a new one.
bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
Not a bad idea. Just have to find a willing donor. I'm about 95% certain that its the culprit.
Finally got the car back to the garage. Those bastards left the side of my battery tray under my windshield wiper, and closed the hood on it. Then after I popped the hood, I noticed they didn't even put the intercooler cover back on. Those of you from Tampa, beware! Stay the f*** away from this dealer! They are bad business.
Get all the codes, then go through the reset to zero them out. Check the wiring to the ECU. Maybe even take it off and put it back on again just to make sure. See if there is any moisture or crud on the ECU. The throttle unit doesn't really fail all that often, but a throttle position sensor might. Check the service manual as it does have some troubleshooting procedures in the back I believe. Might help ascertain one or more problems. Try using the throttle not under any load (neutral) to see if engine gacks at any point in the RPM range and then check the codes again. If you feel lucky, put under a light load and move it up an back in the driveway for actual "load".
bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
Ok, so I must have finally googled the correct combination of phrases because I found this:
"Most electronic (drive by wire) throttles have two independent sensors to detect the pedal position, so if one sensor goes bad, the throttle doesn't go haywire. As a fail-safe measure, the car's ECM compares the voltage readings from both sensors to each other, if the voltages are the same, then that means both sensors are okay. However, if the voltages don't match up, the ECM knows one the sensors has gone bad and will either disable the throttle, or put the car in "limp home mode". It sounds like the pedal position sensors aren't reading the same voltages so the throttle has been disabled."
Considering this describes my problem perfectly, would it be a good guess that replacing the pedal should resolve the issue?
"Most electronic (drive by wire) throttles have two independent sensors to detect the pedal position, so if one sensor goes bad, the throttle doesn't go haywire. As a fail-safe measure, the car's ECM compares the voltage readings from both sensors to each other, if the voltages are the same, then that means both sensors are okay. However, if the voltages don't match up, the ECM knows one the sensors has gone bad and will either disable the throttle, or put the car in "limp home mode". It sounds like the pedal position sensors aren't reading the same voltages so the throttle has been disabled."
Considering this describes my problem perfectly, would it be a good guess that replacing the pedal should resolve the issue?
bradboyd80
Member
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- '12 Velocity Red MS3
yeah, my idle is perfectly fine. The funny thing is that I can turn the car off, turn it back on, and get one good rev out of it. Once I completely let off the clutch is when the car s**** on me. I've located a pedal assembly locally, but they want to charge me $150 for it. So it may have to wait until next month.
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- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
See one of my first posts, after a courtesy/obligatory trip to the nearest mazda dealer when I first got the car,had 35,800 on it, had a full circle and check for undone TSB's . leaving the lot, I found the hood unlatched and the wheel pulling to the left and something else undone, little stuff, but goes to attention to detail
FERMAN MAZDA
