Who has, & How Fast are the Fastest N/A Protege's?
- Thread starter Rac3rX
- Start date
jeg0024 said:Yeah...add me too. 17.410@79.40
What do I need to do to run low 16's? This was my first time out to the track and I was a bit disapointed.
PS. Mines an autoCan I be put on a seperate list for autos? lol
stall converter would definantly help. I launch at slightly over 4000rpm and slip the clitch.... auto you sorta can't do that without a stall.... you wouldn't need a big 4000rpm stall either.. something like a 3k stall, left foot on brake, stall it up, when the tree starts, plant it but leave your left foot on the brake and just pull through it..once the brake starts letting go let go of the brake and off you go.
Weight reduction will also help. I was high 16s until i pulled the rear spoiler, front splash guard, rear seats and centre console out - I also remove my spare and tools at the track, and before i head out i clean the car out of CDs, first aid kit and so on and so forth.
Auto's can get freakin awesome times with stall converters though, and they are insanely consistant...they shift gears harder and quicker than manual's -
concentrate on the trans then move on to power upgrades....
edit: since the thread starter has moved onto a different car and is no longer actively updating the list, perhaps a moderator could give one of us permission to edit the top post and maintain the list? or start a new thread?
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LordWorm said:
See I was trying to hold the brake with the left and then punch it on the green light but let right off of the brake. Where can I get a stall converter and how easy is that gonna be to do? I really wasnt prepared and will do better next time when I take all the weight out, I came straight from work to the track and wasnt ready, I think the only reason why I got alittle better each run was because I was using up fuel.
Yeah...maybe we should just get a new thread going. Who wants to start one? lol
I'll start one if you like...jeg0024 said:
Yeh get the weight out.
Stall converter - well, i dont have an auto so i dont know how easy/hard they are to get for our cars.....ask around - i'm sure some of the auto guys must have them
Head to your nearest auto trans shop and make some inquiries
LordWorm said:I'll start one if you like...
Yeh get the weight out.
Stall converter - well, i dont have an auto so i dont know how easy/hard they are to get for our cars.....ask around - i'm sure some of the auto guys must have them
Head to your nearest auto trans shop and make some inquiries
U happen to know what it does? Im gonna look around, sounds like a good idea. Oh, and if u make a new thread post a link here, thanks
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Your auto has one...it is simply that isn't a beefy one that can allow the engine to slip all the way to 5000 rpm or so like the performance converters...(I shouldn't say it has one exactly...but it has clutch release hyrdraulics to allow your car to idle and rev slightly while in drive...so when you press the brake the engine doesn't stall...that is what I am referring to)
the performance converters allow the engine to slip all the way up to redline in some cases, with brake pressed...then release the brake and you take off...the price though, will probably not be pretty when including installation...
the performance converters allow the engine to slip all the way up to redline in some cases, with brake pressed...then release the brake and you take off...the price though, will probably not be pretty when including installation...
True it would probably cost a stackInstallshield 2 said:
I've never driven an auto with a decent stall on it.. but i am under the impression that it wont tax standard street drivability, as it wont "stall up" unless you are right into the throttle...take off normally unless you belt the hell out of it then it'll rev and rev and rev until it hits the engagement point.....correct me if i'm wrong here of course
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
well to do it correctly you need to put those "shift kit" things in also...the clutch packs need upgraded in order to tolerate the higher heat and increased launch stress of taking off at a higher rpm...all of these, depending on how radically you go, will really start to decrease the shift smoothness of the auto gearbox...in a way you could think of it as upgrading to a grabby clutch in a manual...it gets a lot harder to keep things smooth...
I know nothing of automatics though for the most part in general...I have never owned one, never driven a modified automatic, and have never witnessed the work being done...this is just what I hear from older muscle car guys...I know nothing of modified protege autos especially though...
I know nothing of automatics though for the most part in general...I have never owned one, never driven a modified automatic, and have never witnessed the work being done...this is just what I hear from older muscle car guys...I know nothing of modified protege autos especially though...
Sounds like you know a reasonable amount about them stillInstallshield 2 said:
Closest i've ever been to a car sporting a high performance stall converter is the ones that I constantly end up racing in street meets...
I'd imagine a stall of 3000rpm would be ample for drag racing applications in the protege... i launch pretty hard at 4000rpm (which is clutch frying territory - especially when you slip it out all the way through 1st) - but at 3000rpm the launch is fairly smooth with not much punishment to the quartermile time when its all said and done....
Technique for launching a stalled up auto also varies according to who you talk to...
some guys will rev up to about 200rpm before it engages, then just floor it when the last amber comes up, other guys use the brake to hold the car, push it past the stall point on the first amber and by the time the last amber lights up the car is pulling hard against the brake and its like a slingshot....
still, I'd recommend to anyone whos serious enough about shaving time off their quarter mile with an auto to do weight reduction first then look down this path before power upgrades - launching from idle rpm is seriously going to hamper your times. According to the "theory" i've been taught by, in an ideal world you want to launch at or slightly above where your car makes peak torque (slightly over if you have lots of traction because the will bog quite severely and you'll lose alot of revs on the launch) - still when its all said and done a manual conversion may be cheaper
