Wheel bearings suck!

[Dpwhitehead1]

Boostd, I nominate you to do a "How to replace wheel bearings" the next time you do it! I may try to make one up until the point where I get the new ones pressed. Having never done this I had to look up a lot of diagrams to see what parts were what. I'm sure a how to with pictured would help a lot of people out in the future.

i'll take pictures when i do this.

 

[NCZ13]

yeah its really not that hard. once you take it all off once, you learn where everything goes and how it attaches.

 

[SpecRacer17]

So what exactly should I be replacing when doing this job? So far the list is:
1. Wheel Bearing
2. Bearing seal
3. Dust cover
4. Axle nut
5. ???
6. ???

Am I missing anything or is this it?

 

[MonkeyBone]

Both front wheel bearing are going dead on mine. Changed them last year!!! Guy who changed them took an impact gun to remove the old bearing with some tool with a screw (I don't remember the whole thing) and he then tried to press in the new...He broke the press!! So he took the same "tool" and impact my new bearing in! I think this is why it took only 1 year to bust it. Charged me 400$ for both front bearings. Took like 3 hours.

So this time, I might want to try it by myself, or going at some place they can do it professionaly without costing me a fortune. Damn the baring itself costs like 70$...140 for both. BUT they work at 60$ an hour! MINIMUM! Stealers...

I'll sweat, I'll scream, I might even cry while doing it 'cause some fuc$/?%/ bolt won't come off, even with a 10 pounds mass hitting with both hands. That's the joy of mechanic. (idhitit)

I'll shoot myself in the headgasket...

 

[SpecRacer17]

Both front wheel bearing are going dead on mine. Changed them last year!!! Guy who changed them took an impact gun to remove the old bearing with some tool with a screw (I don't remember the whole thing) and he then tried to press in the new...He broke the press!! So he took the same "tool" and impact my new bearing in! I think this is why it took only 1 year to bust it. Charged me 400$ for both front bearings. Took like 3 hours.

So this time, I might want to try it by myself, or going at some place they can do it professionaly without costing me a fortune. Damn the baring itself costs like 70$...140 for both. BUT they work at 60$ an hour! MINIMUM! Stealers...

I'll sweat, I'll scream, I might even cry while doing it 'cause some fuc$/?%/ bolt won't come off, even with a 10 pounds mass hitting with both hands. That's the joy of mechanic. (idhitit)

I'll shoot myself in the headgasket...

LOL, dude the bearings are only $35 each from the dealer. You could probably find some for less from NAPA or the canadian equivalent. I'm going to do all the work myself, take the knuckle into a local shop and have them press out the old bearings and press in the new ones. They'll do both for $80! So a job the dealer said would run $750 is now $150. Gotta love that.

 

[mtp318101]

Thanks to everyone who posted. I too have a bad bearing and this thread has been a great help. Attached is a copy of the exploded part diagram for a 99-03 Mazda Protege for anyone that is interested.

Thus far I have the hub and bearing (separate pieces unfortunately), and a new axle nut. The hub is OEM, and the bearing is Timken # 510003. A couple of questions:

The bearing: I know it is pressed on the hub- but is pressed into the knuckle as well? If I use a hub removal tool (either the kind that uses a slide, or the kind that presses on the axle end), should the hub come off with the bearing- or should the bearing remain in the knuckle? It'd be grand if I didn't have to remove the whole knuckle...

The dust shield: how and where does it fit over the hub?

Lastly, what does the snap ring hold?

I'm trying to visualize all this *before* I take it apart. The Haynes manual is of no help...

 

[MS3_KIDD]

LOL, dude the bearings are only $35 each from the dealer.

rear hub and bearing ass'y for a msp (rear disk w/ antilock) is approx. $160

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

Thanks to everyone who posted. I too have a bad bearing and this thread has been a great help. Attached is a copy of the exploded part diagram for a 99-03 Mazda Protege for anyone that is interested.

Thus far I have the hub and bearing (separate pieces unfortunately), and a new axle nut. The hub is OEM, and the bearing is Timken # 510003. A couple of questions:

The bearing: I know it is pressed on the hub- but is pressed into the knuckle as well? If I use a hub removal tool (either the kind that uses a slide, or the kind that presses on the axle end), should the hub come off with the bearing- or should the bearing remain in the knuckle? It'd be grand if I didn't have to remove the whole knuckle...

The dust shield: how and where does it fit over the hub?

Lastly, what does the snap ring hold?

I'm trying to visualize all this *before* I take it apart. The Haynes manual is of no help...

the snap ring holds the bearing in place. basically, you take the knuckle off, snap ring out, press off the hub, cut the race(as it always gets stuck on the hub), press out the bearing(out the back, as you removed the clip for).. press the new bearing in, replace the clip. press the hub in, from the front.

 

[slavrenz]

Thanks to everyone who posted. I too have a bad bearing and this thread has been a great help. Attached is a copy of the exploded part diagram for a 99-03 Mazda Protege for anyone that is interested.

Thus far I have the hub and bearing (separate pieces unfortunately), and a new axle nut. The hub is OEM, and the bearing is Timken # 510003. A couple of questions:

The bearing: I know it is pressed on the hub- but is pressed into the knuckle as well? If I use a hub removal tool (either the kind that uses a slide, or the kind that presses on the axle end), should the hub come off with the bearing- or should the bearing remain in the knuckle? It'd be grand if I didn't have to remove the whole knuckle...

The dust shield: how and where does it fit over the hub?

Lastly, what does the snap ring hold?

I'm trying to visualize all this *before* I take it apart. The Haynes manual is of no help...

Also, don't forget to replace the wheel seal. The dust shield shouldn't need to be removed or messed with at all.

 

[mtp318101]

the snap ring holds the bearing in place. basically, you take the knuckle off, snap ring out, press off the hub, cut the race(as it always gets stuck on the hub), press out the bearing(out the back, as you removed the clip for).. press the new bearing in, replace the clip. press the hub in, from the front.

Thanks, that's what I needed. Even though I now have the workshop manual, your description makes it crystal clear what I am up against. This has probably been posted before, but I found a 2002 manual here:

http://pdftown.com/PDF-Mazda-Protege-2002-Workshop-Manual.html

Found a 1996 manual elsewhere as well.

 

[mtp318101]

Also, don't forget to replace the wheel seal. The dust shield shouldn't need to be removed or messed with at all.

Yeah, I see now that the dust shield stays attached to the knuckle. Appreciate the heads up on the oil seal, I'll be getting one before I do the work.

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

awesome. sounds good. good luck

 

[slavrenz]

Yeah, I see now that the dust shield stays attached to the knuckle. Appreciate the heads up on the oil seal, I'll be getting one before I do the work.

Actually, what year is your car? I know there was a TSB for 2001 and earlier about the wheel seal and the steering knuckle design causing premature bearing failure because of water buildup that causes corrosion. I know they made a redesigned knuckle that eliminates the wheel seal, so you may want to check when you go to replace things - if there's not a seal in there now, don't stick one in.

All the other parts are the same though, so you shouldn't have any issues there.

 

[slavrenz]

Here is the TSB:

FRONT WHEEL BEARING FAILURE FROM AXLE SEAL
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2001 PROTEGE 10100001 10516027
2000 MPV Y0100001 10209812
2001 MPV Y0100001 10209812
1999 MIATA X0100001 10221281
2000 MIATA X0100001 10221281
2001 MIATA X0100001 10221281

Symptoms and Conditions -----------------------
On some vehicles, there may be a growling or abnormal noise heard from the front wheels at speeds below 50 mph. The front axle oil seals in the steering knuckles may allow an accumulation of water to remain between the seal and bearing, causing the wheel bearing to rust and fail prematurely.

Repair Procedure -----------------
To prevent water accumulation and rust from damaging the front wheel bearings, the steering knuckle OIL SEAL has been DELETED. Also, there is a new steering knuckle that has a machined 'drain' to prevent any water accumulation.
1. If the vehicle falls within the VIN range and has a failed wheel bearing/s, install a new steering knuckle WITHOUT THE OIL SEAL and replace the wheel bearing.

PARTS INFORMATION ------------------
01 Protege CB01-33-021A (Steering Knuckle, right side / Without ABS) CB01-33-031A (Steering Knuckle, Left side / Without ABS) C100-33-021B (Steering Knuckle, right side / With ABS) C100-33-031B (Steering Knuckle, Left side / With ABS) 99-01 Miata NC10-26-112B (Support Hub Right Side / Without ABS) NC10-26-122B (Support Hub Left Side / Without ABS) NC14-26-112B (Support Hub Right Side / With ABS) NC14-26-122B (Support Hub Left Side / With ABS) 00-01 MPV LC62-33-021D (Steering Knuckle, right side) LC62-33-031D (Steering Knuckle, left side)

 

[flash75]

Interesting information. That said, my 2002 Protege shop manual still shows the seal. Don't know of the seals are in my 02 P5.

Clifton

 

[slavrenz]

Interesting information. That said, my 2002 Protege shop manual still shows the seal. Don't know of the seals are in my 02 P5.

Clifton

As does mine, but I don't think that's something that would be changed in the shop manual - I'm guessing this TSB only came out a few years ago after people started having their bearings fail at 50,000 - 75,000 miles. If you have a 2002 Protege tho you should be safe - I think the VIN range only covers up to halfway thru 2001.

 

[mtp318101]

Actually, what year is your car? I know there was a TSB for 2001 and earlier about the wheel seal and the steering knuckle design causing premature bearing failure because of water buildup that causes corrosion. I know they made a redesigned knuckle that eliminates the wheel seal, so you may want to check when you go to replace things - if there's not a seal in there now, don't stick one in.

All the other parts are the same though, so you shouldn't have any issues there.

Thanks, yes I did see this TSB at http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/

My Protege is a 99, so should be unaffected. A few years back I did get the MAF sensor replaced under the Waranty Extension program, but.... I don't know *how* I missed this little gem before my power train warranty was up:

TSB: 01-010/99
1999 Protege and 1999 Miata - RATTLING NOISE FROM ENGINE

APPLICABLE MODELS
All 1999 Protege (1.6L) with VINs lower than JM1 BJ222 X0 140057.
All 1999 Miata with (1.8L) VINs lower than JM1 NB353 X0 126468.

DESCRIPTION
A rattling noise may be heard from the engine when depressing the clutch or when revving the engine in neutral. In extreme cases, customers may experience noise at all times. This concern can be caused by improperly machined number 4 main cap of cylinder blocks which may result in premature wear of the thrust bearing.

Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following procedure: REPLACE THE ENGINE! (bang)

Is there a way to tell when a TSB was first issued?