What's with these newer oil filters?

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200955

As someone who changes his oil on a regular basis I'm amazed at the price of an oil filter that claims to be appropriate for synthetic oil. I've also noticed some of the better filter producers claim they are good to 10Km's . Price range here in Canada $17 to $24. So, riddle me this, if I change my oil at 5 to 6Km's why do I need such a filter. And just exactly what filters are these service shops installing with a $59 oil change in total? I only use WIX which I buy for $4.95 at everyone's favorite online parts store. Other producers of filters seem to be insinuated I am installing "less than the best". Personally, I think in this case, we are all be gaslighted by big business and made to feel "doom and gloom" if we don't use their product. It's a sad day when I can purchase 5Lt of quality oil and the filter is slightly less money than the oil. What's your thoughts on this scam of greed. Is there particular brands you support or avoid? Do you ask installers what brand of oil or filter they use? Are you worried about the quality or function of some filters and oil? Or do you "dump and fill" the oil while retaining that 10KM filter until the next oil change?
 
I had a ‘65 Plymouth with a 3K oil change interval. I was a poor stupid kid and changed the filter every other oil change. The car only lasted 220K before it rusted out. Probably would have rusted out slower if I change the filter more often. :p

Doom and gloom sells, as does fear of having less than the best. Combine the two and you’ve got marketing gold. Unless you’ve got a special situation, like driving through the desert is a sandstorm, you’re fine with a standard filter.
 
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In my area (in the U.S.), a typical shop swap with full synth and a decent filter costs in the range of USD $85-100. But old injuries get in the way of me getting underneath the vehicle and torquing around, anymore.

So, every 5Kmi, I have them do the deed. It does come with a multi-point basic inspection of things, being under there as they are; all fluids in the engine bay, check hoses, check brakes, check suspension, etc. Would prefer paying ~$35 for a top oil and $10 for a great filter, but then I'd have to hunt around for some poor schlub to swap it for me; and in my neighborhood there are precious few 12yr olds who'd love to make $15-20 for something like that. And so, I pay the extra ~$40 to have a shop do it. Easy peasy.

Used to have a Miata where I did everything myself except the exhaust. Brakes, suspension, bushings, hoses, radiator, various sensors, interior, etc. Didn't need much, but kept well ahead of the maintenance "curve" ... and rarely saw a shop. Kept in nearly showroom condition. But that was before my body began making more noises than a U2 concert when heading underneath the car. :LOL:
 
If you get your oil changed at a Mazda dealership they will use the "value line" filters.

You can request the better ones, though, which only cost like $12.

IMO if you change your oil at 5K or fewer miles, you don't drive in dirty, dusty areas, and you use one of the fancy aftermarket filters, you can, or should, go 2 changes on a filter. I think if you throw it away at 5K it was likely still perfectly fine. Maybe I'll consider that so my oil changes are further simplified. Then it's just:

1) get oil sample container
2) open Fumoto valve and fill oil sample
3) close valve and grab 5 qt jug
4) open valve and fill jug

My only concern is making sure I use a filter that has the same flow and pressure characteristics as the Mazda filters. With some (most?) 3rd party filters that filter finer particles, flow is reduced as a tradeoff. IMO getting the flow correct and consistent is the most important thing for the engine.
 
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As someone who changes his oil on a regular basis I'm amazed at the price of an oil filter that claims to be appropriate for synthetic oil. I've also noticed some of the better filter producers claim they are good to 10Km's . Price range here in Canada $17 to $24. So, riddle me this, if I change my oil at 5 to 6Km's why do I need such a filter. And just exactly what filters are these service shops installing with a $59 oil change in total? I only use WIX which I buy for $4.95 at everyone's favorite online parts store. Other producers of filters seem to be insinuated I am installing "less than the best". Personally, I think in this case, we are all be gaslighted by big business and made to feel "doom and gloom" if we don't use their product. It's a sad day when I can purchase 5Lt of quality oil and the filter is slightly less money than the oil. What's your thoughts on this scam of greed. Is there particular brands you support or avoid? Do you ask installers what brand of oil or filter they use? Are you worried about the quality or function of some filters and oil? Or do you "dump and fill" the oil while retaining that 10KM filter until the next oil change?
I apologize for making a mileage value mistake. The value should read 10,000 5,000 and 6,000 kilometers respectively. Won't happen again, and no, I'm not going to my room.
 
I had a ‘65 Plymouth with a 3K oil change interval. I was a poor stupid kid and changed the filter every other oil change. The card only lasted 220K before it rusted out. Probably would have rusted out slower if I change the filter more often. :p

Doom and gloom sells, as does fear of having less than the best. Combine the two and you’ve got marketing gold. Unless you’ve got a special situation, like driving through the desert is a sandstorm, you’re fine with a standard filter.
One of my classic cars is a '65 Fury III tudor hardtop. I have had it for 17 years and took it completely apart - every nut and bolt and created a monster of a "restomod". What a small world indeed.
 
If you get your oil changed at a Mazda dealership they will use the "value line" filters.

You can request the better ones, though, which only cost like $12.

IMO if you change your oil at 5K or fewer miles, you don't drive in dirty, dusty areas, and you use one of the fancy aftermarket filters, you can, or should, go 2 changes on a filter. I think if you throw it away at 5K it was likely still perfectly fine. Maybe I'll consider that so my oil changes are further simplified. Then it's just:

1) get oil sample container
2) open Fumoto valve and fill oil sample
3) close valve and grab 5 qt jug
4) open valve and fill jug

My only concern is making sure I use a filter that has the same flow and pressure characteristics as the Mazda filters. With some (most?) 3rd party filters that filter finer particles, flow is reduced as a tradeoff. IMO getting the flow correct and consistent is the most important thing for the engine.
You are spot on! If you notice these days filters are smaller but engines hold more oil than a few decades ago. But what once 10W30 is now 0W20 so flow is much improved. Can you believe that some Toyota's use 0W8 which when I last checked isn't even on the market. Wonder what an oil change with that fluid costs. Yes, some filters are at or working towards 20 microns just like fuel filters and that has to restrict flow as they reduce pressure.
 
I used to change oil in an official dealership for around $80 in US now it costs around $130 for the same job... Well, I'm not doing it anymore. $39 for (5qt oil + filter) + $35 to change it in a local service = $69 total. If you ask nicely they can look at your brakes and levels also...
 
I used to change oil in an official dealership for around $80 in US now it costs around $130 for the same job... Well, I'm not doing it anymore. $39 for (5qt oil + filter) + $35 to change it in a local service = $69 total. If you ask nicely they can look at your brakes and levels also...
Canada? In the U.S., Pennzoil Platinum is $23 at Walmart. Ultra Platinum is $29. That is what I put in the Miata and the CX-5, respectively. So the oil change costs me about $35 to $40.
 
What ever oil you use, stick with that brand. It's a well known fact that the oil additives from different brands can react counter to each other. No matter how long you wait there are cavities in your engine that prevent ALL the engine oil from draining out. Consider this a "Best Practice". And never listen to the idiots that claim filling a vertical filter before installing is a no-no. You need that oil going where it's supposed to go immediately on startup. As a side note put a new crush washer on the drain plug every time. Just exactly how do you crush an already crushed washer? You'd end up over tightening the plug, or worse, stripping out threads.
 
Canada? In the U.S., Pennzoil Platinum is $23 at Walmart. Ultra Platinum is $29. That is what I put in the Miata and the CX-5, respectively. So the oil change costs me about $35 to $40.
I buy Mobil so it's a bit more expensive + I don't change it myself and usually do it in my local shop. Anyway it costs a lot less than in the official dealership.
 
I'm in Canada, Mazda OEM filters for my 2.5T are a bit over $10 a pop. P/N 1WPY-14-302 from Thailand. I change my oil every 6.5-7k kms with Kirkland Signature 5W-30 from Costco. Current price is $50 for 9.5L, but I picked up my current stock at something like $40-42.
 

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