What have you done to your P5 today?

[bugboy32337]

It does NOT! that's the point.

• Install Cabin Air Filter since the US models didn’t have it, but the Japanese version does!
  • Video on this
  • TC86-61-J31 Seal, cooling unit
  • J001-50-171 license plate holder bracket
  • GE6T-61-J6X normal cabin filter OR CB12-61-J6X aldehyde filter
  • Forum thread about this
  • Picture of layout

WE CAN ADD ONE?

 

[TX_SilverP5]

WE CAN ADD ONE?

Yessir. I'll go and grab the links of where I bought the parts for it but watch the video.

....ok here you go:

• TC86-61-J31 Seal, cooling unit
• J001-50-171 license plate holder bracket
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

• GE6T-61-J6X normal cabin filter OR CB12-61-J6X aldehyde filter

 

[BenjiHoggi]

I know you have a budget, but why bother with crappy aftermarket wheels (because your budget only allows you to access the garbage layer of wheels) when you can get much higher quality OEM wheels from late model Mazda 3/6, Mazda RX8, Acura TSX, Acura RSX, Acura TL, Lexus IS - with plenty of choices in 16" and 17" and you can get a set for under $200.


TIRES are the most important thing. I've been buying tires for decades and most people don't understand how important a quality tire is to the feel and performance of their car. As a general rule, this Protege5 is a tremendously nimble and fun car to drive due to A) the suspension B) the tire choice. If you live in a warmer area (CA, AZ, TX, FL), a great tire is the Hancook Ventus V2. If you live anywhere else and need better performance in wet or cold weather, a great tire for this car is the Continental DWS-06 (I have them on my P5 and MSP).

I will vouch for all of this. EXCEPT that Honda/Acura, Lexus, and most other OEM 5x114.3 wheels are going to have a different, often smaller hub diameter meaning they won't fit on the Protege's hub without some jenky spacers or machining of the hub/wheels. OEM 5x114.3 wheels that do fit are from the likes of Kia, Hyundai, Mitsubishi, and of course Mazda. And other various makes/models (Ford Probe, Nissan Z32 300ZX, etc.)

I've found this to be a useful website in determining information on OEM wheels:
https://adaptitusa.com/referencebook.htm

I have several OEM sets from other cars: 2008 Hyundai Sonata, 16x6.5" +42mm, 2015 Mazda 3, 16x6.5" +50mm. On the hunt for 17s now and the main candidates are from an NC Miata, 2020+ Mazda 3/6/CX5/etc., Mitsubishi Evo, or FD RX7.

Regarding tires, I'm currently on the Continental DWS06+ and previously ran the BFG g-Force Comp2 A/S+, both in 205/50R16. Continentals are great but have a vague steering feel compared to the BFGs, and this is something I saw in comparison reviews before purchasing. I was disappointed by this and will be going back to the BFGs once I find a set of 17s. Otherwise both tires seemed very solid and the choice of tires in general is very important!

 

[dilar]

Pulled the head yesterday. A while back dropped a valve when trying to do valve stem seals. Evidently the compressor blew the breaker and the cylinder pressure dropped. Oh well. All stem seals are replaced now and I'm eyeing VICS/VCTS delete before putting it back together. So many new parts going in: New water pump already installed last fall. New timing belt. Camshaft seals. Crank sensor. Upper and lower rad hose. Thermostat. Coolant reservoir. All new ignition parts. Should be fun. Oh and the 4-1 mani is a little rusty. Might replace that while I'm at it with a new painted one. Or just paint this one

 

[Diamond_Dave]

I've found this to be a useful website in determining information on OEM wheels:
https://adaptitusa.com/referencebook.htm

Well, this is very frustrating. But that's a great site for sure.

 

[negatroid]

Noticed auto trans slipping at 266k, would really like to hit 300 with this thing, been in the family since new. Did a solenoid resistance and click check. No shifting issues, 1 and 2 don't slip, only have the problem at freeway speeds. Thinking I might replace the Pressure Control Solenoid only. Will scan it when I get home tonight.

 

[03protege5]

Let’s see, lucked up and found the infamous mp3 ecu at a scrap yard. Took the gamble and purchased and swapped it over, I could tell differences instantly when driving.

I’ve only driven maybe 150 miles with the new ecu and I just replaced my mass air flow sensor/ unit. Should I disconnect the battery to reset everything? Or will the ecu pick up on the new MAF? I also need to fill up with premium gas so I thought I’d wait to reset when I do that

 

[323]

Prolly best to reset the ecu.

 

[03protege5]

Prolly best to reset the ecu.

Yea I probably should. What I’ve read is to disconnect the battery for 30-45 minutes, reconnect, let it idle for 10-15 then turn it off. It says that during driving it will take 10-20 cycles (on/off) for it to complete the new process

 

[323]

Dang that’s a long ass time. I usually just leave the battery unhooked for about 5 minutes. Hold the brake a bit to drain residual power in the system. You’ll feel the car stumble a bit during the first few start ups but it’s perfectly normal. If you indeed had a faulty MAF, it’s best to reset the ecu so the car can relearn the fuel trims with the new properly working MAF.

 

[03protege5]

Dang that’s a long ass time. I usually just leave the battery unhooked for about 5 minutes. Hold the brake a bit to drain residual power in the system. You’ll feel the car stumble a bit during the first few start ups but it’s perfectly normal. If you indeed had a faulty MAF, it’s best to reset the ecu so the car can relearn the fuel trims with the new properly working MAF.

I’ve done it that way as well. Minus the brake pedal. I just replaced the IAC sensor as well which is the other sensor inside the air box.

I still have a low idle but it’s only been 200
Miles since the MAF sensor.

Not sure if it’s still learning or not but someone mentioned the knock sensor could be bad as well. However I have no noise or CEL to prove that. But the knock sensor is cheap and can be reached during the oil change

 

[TX_SilverP5]

Went and tried to bring in the driver's side mirror for a car wash and it just broke right off. So it was time to look at my options for replacement. I ended up here from TRQ for their side mirrors. $87 and figured out how to change it out myself after this video. It's all blacked out and I don't really mind it!

 

[TX_SilverP5]

Noticed auto trans slipping at 266k, would really like to hit 300 with this thing, been in the family since new. Did a solenoid resistance and click check. No shifting issues, 1 and 2 don't slip, only have the problem at freeway speeds. Thinking I might replace the Pressure Control Solenoid only. Will scan it when I get home tonight.

How's the saga of A/T issues? I had to get mine rebuilt and I took the opportunity to upgrade the valve body from LenTech (7A100-4F27-STT). They don't advertise it anymore, but they do build them upon request.

 

[BenjiHoggi]

Went and tried to bring in the driver's side mirror for a car wash and it just broke right off. So it was time to look at my options for replacement. I ended up here from TRQ for their side mirrors. $87 and figured out how to change it out myself after this video. It's all blacked out and I don't really mind it! View attachment 336508

This exact thing happened to me! I was shocked at how hard it was to find a good replacement mirror that was color matched.

Now I'm paranoid to move the mirrors lest I break them again.

 

[TX_SilverP5]

Yeah I was going back and forth on the color matching and found this video to consider swapping out the old covers but they didn't fit! The video also goes into how to remove the plate and paint it. In the end, I ended up liking the default black instead of matching to the silver.

 

[323]

Went and tried to bring in the driver's side mirror for a car wash and it just broke right off. So it was time to look at my options for replacement. I ended up here from TRQ for their side mirrors. $87 and figured out how to change it out myself after this video. It's all blacked out and I don't really mind it! View attachment 336508

they're old and crunchy! i went to adjust mine in traffic one day and it also snapped off lol. also don't mind the blacked out look.

 

[negatroid]

How's the saga of A/T issues? I had to get mine rebuilt and I took the opportunity to upgrade the valve body from LenTech (7A100-4F27-STT). They don't advertise it anymore, but they do build them upon request.

Thanks for your reply, this thing has been in the family since new and I was about to give it to my son so I'd like to keep it going.
Maybe that's the way to go. I just replaced all the solenoids and new fluid and it's even worse now. Transmission shop said the problem is probably in the valve body. You don't think I have a problem with 4th band/clutch? Maybe enough pressure would fix it.
AAMCO said I'm looking at $5000 so it's either this or a junkyard one

 

[TX_SilverP5]

I paid $560 for the upgraded valve body and $3.5K for a rebuilt transmission. Drives like new! So I'd look for a reliable transmission place and have them give you a quote or go with a remanufactured one. Here's my research for that route:
FN4A-EL Rebuilt Transmission | Certified Transmission
4F27E Transmission for Sale, FN4A-EL (spprecision.com) (they do not deliver to TX)
Transmission for 2002 Mazda Protege 2.0L (reman-transmission.com) $3,000 delivered

 

[TX_SilverP5]

Thanks for your reply, this thing has been in the family since new and I was about to give it to my son so I'd like to keep it going.

This '02 P5 has been my son's car for 2 years and it's been a learning process for sure but worth it! Now it's going to be my daughter's first car while my son goes to college with my current car. It's in my best interest to keep it in great shape. Good luck to you guys!

 

[BLKMK6]

Maybe

How about sway bar links? Small ID DOM, left and right taps, mill the flats and done