What have you done to your P5 today?

where th seats straight bolt on and how did the seat buckle sensor work out.

I removed the mazda3 seat brackets and welded my p5 seat brackets in its place.. fits perfectly, maybe a inch higher.. and the sensor pigtail is different, i just cut the pigtail of my p5 seats and transferred over, but I forgot to hook it up and I don't get a seatbelt check light anyways
 
so i finally gave the p5 a wash and dry yesterday. for those of you with hard water, i bought this filter for use with the hose and it did an amazing job with giving me clean water that wont leave spots
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

also hung the mazda flag and my bikes to give me some more room in the garage for the car. next weekend ill hopefully have my wheel spacers painted as they are just regular steel and install those. cant wait!

Wow that's a big flag...were you get that from???
 
Gave it a hard scrub down and returned to summer mode:

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Wow that's a big flag...were you get that from???

i went into a mazda dealership and asked for it. also got about 8-10 of those little flags you put on your windows


started riding my bike to work so the p5 sat in the garage all day. its weird not having to use the car everyday now
 

I was trying to figure out why you had a fold-out tile surface... thinking maybe it was for hot surfaces? THEN I started using my eyes in a non-stupid manner and saw the hardware inside. And now I want a turbo...

On topic: Oil change this afternoon. And, I'm thinking about plasti-dipping my wheels.
 
The end is here..... :( TB broke Saturday and both #2 and #3 cylinders were damaged. Rough estimate from the mechanic is 2K to fix. At this point not sure what direction I'm going but with the rust issues, I'm not so sure about dropping that much into just the top end of the engine....
 
I've seen his thread and posted....but it's not as simple as pnp....know what I mean? And I have nowhere near the know-how or tools to do it myself.
 
I am in that very same boat Jeff. I would love to do the swap. I know I could bolt it in but when it comes to the wireing part I would be lost. Totally lost.
 
Exactly and considering it's my dd, I need it on the road not sitting waiting for me to find time to work on it. Could always pay someone to install it but their headaches would directly effect my checkbook.
 
Oil changed and came to the realization that I am in desperate need of a taller jack... or I need to drop some lbs.
 
The end is here..... :( TB broke Saturday and both #2 and #3 cylinders were damaged. Rough estimate from the mechanic is 2K to fix. At this point not sure what direction I'm going but with the rust issues, I'm not so sure about dropping that much into just the top end of the engine....

I know this has been discussed a thousand times before, but I thought the conclusion is that our engines are non-interference? Or did the damage occur as some byproduct of the timing belt breaking?
 
Yes thats what i thought as well from numerous discussions ive read on here. Talked with the mechanic today about a long block and he said the engine was interference?!
 
Wife and kids are gone until tomorrow so I figured it was the best time to break down the engine in preperation of dropping it off at the machine shop. Well I got the trans off and as I was about to remove the clutch and flywheel I decided to mock up the engine stand so it would be a smooth transition. Come to find out that the bolts that are needed to keep the block on the engine stand are too big for the brackets of my engine stand. So I'm going to a buddies work tomorrow so he can widen the brackets for me. But sucks because now I don't know the next time I'll get time in the garage again.
 
Yes thats what i thought as well from numerous discussions ive read on here. Talked with the mechanic today about a long block and he said the engine was interference?!

All the paperwork says it is, but its not. When I do the timing I always turn the cams a full cycle with cyl1 at TDC and they dont hit, so therefore, non interference
There are people who have bent valves somehow though, not sure how
 
All the paperwork says it is, but its not. When I do the timing I always turn the cams a full cycle with cyl1 at TDC and they dont hit, so therefore, non interference
There are people who have bent valves somehow though, not sure how

Things move pretty fast at 2000+ rpm. Almost anything can happen when a belt breaks. My sister's old Neon had a similar instance. Bent 3 valves.
 
Things move pretty fast at 2000+ rpm. Almost anything can happen when a belt breaks. My sister's old Neon had a similar instance. Bent 3 valves.

Sounds logical to me and in my situation the engine was around 2800/3000 rpms when it happened.

Test drove a 2014 6 last night and contemplating taking it on a lease or fixing the car. If I fix the car I'm not getting the top end rebuilt, I'm going to look into a used engine and swap it over and call it a day. After that, I'd probably start parting her out. :(
 

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