What have you done to your MSP today?

check your spark plug gaps. I had a similar issue and it actually lost power when it went into boost till about 4.5k rpms

hey man you still have it parked in the garage? I just put a fresh set in the other day gapped to spec. my power loss is instant now pre cleaning my egr. when I moved the car into the bay it ran really rough and seemed to have even less Vac.
 
When I installed the forged engine in 1345 it had a shorter PS belt that bypassed the AC compressor, somehow it threw that belt today. Luckily it stayed inside the engine bay but it was no fun driving home without power steering. Went ahead and put the old belt on and checked the AC system for a charge. I haven't used the AC in at least 2 years when it stopped working and of course there was no charge. Hooked up a can of freon that was almost empty and the compressor actually kicked on and blew cold air. Going to go ahead and charge it and see if it lasts. It will be nice having a working defroster this winter.

And on 1574 the AC compressor which always made a little noise started making a really loud noise today. Checked it and the clutch fell completely off, so I guess I am going to the JY to grab another one tomorrow. Threw the short PS belt on this car to bypass the compressor so it wouldn't make that awful (and embarrassing) noise anymore.

And in other news both cars have cracked callaway manifolds and although both have been welded they both cracked again and leak so I am planning to buy an aftermarket mani once and for all for 1345. May pick up a low mileage T25 locally as well. Motor has about 45K, Trans has less than 50k and with a new turbo the car should last me quite a while.
 
Maybe try cleaning the MAF as well

I did that last week. Earlier today I did the egr cleaning. No change whatsoever in the results. The car starts and will idle roughly. It sounds like its running on 2 cylinders. Makes no sense after replacing wires, coils, plugs, O2 sensor, maf & egr cleaning. Compression check was fine as well. No CEL to read. Vac increased slightly but is still below normal range. I'm stumped once again!
 
I did that last week. Earlier today I did the egr cleaning. No change whatsoever in the results. The car starts and will idle roughly. It sounds like its running on 2 cylinders. Makes no sense after replacing wires, coils, plugs, O2 sensor, maf & egr cleaning. Compression check was fine as well. No CEL to read. Vac increased slightly but is still below normal range. I'm stumped once again!

Do you have a relocated maf?
 
I did that last week. Earlier today I did the egr cleaning. No change whatsoever in the results. The car starts and will idle roughly. It sounds like its running on 2 cylinders. Makes no sense after replacing wires, coils, plugs, O2 sensor, maf & egr cleaning. Compression check was fine as well. No CEL to read. Vac increased slightly but is still below normal range. I'm stumped once again!

Try changing the coils with the old coils, check the wiring to the coil packs and ensure the wires are seated well, both at the coil and on the plug. Any leaks in the charge piping?
 
When I installed the forged engine in 1345 it had a shorter PS belt that bypassed the AC compressor, somehow it threw that belt today. Luckily it stayed inside the engine bay but it was no fun driving home without power steering. Went ahead and put the old belt on and checked the AC system for a charge. I haven't used the AC in at least 2 years when it stopped working and of course there was no charge. Hooked up a can of freon that was almost empty and the compressor actually kicked on and blew cold air. Going to go ahead and charge it and see if it lasts. It will be nice having a working defroster this winter.

And on 1574 the AC compressor which always made a little noise started making a really loud noise today. Checked it and the clutch fell completely off, so I guess I am going to the JY to grab another one tomorrow. Threw the short PS belt on this car to bypass the compressor so it wouldn't make that awful (and embarrassing) noise anymore.

And in other news both cars have cracked callaway manifolds and although both have been welded they both cracked again and leak so I am planning to buy an aftermarket mani once and for all for 1345. May pick up a low mileage T25 locally as well. Motor has about 45K, Trans has less than 50k and with a new turbo the car should last me quite a while.

I had a chronic issue with the belt being thrown from the PS after removal of the A/C on my the last built engine. Happened three or four times. Tom was having the same issue I believe. Once I installed the latest engine, it didn't happen before or after I reinstalled the A/C.
 
i have some work to do this weekend. The LX is damn near put back together- so I want to focus on getting that finished if possible.

I do have stuff to install on the msp, before the engine and trans go back into the car. I have new axle seals, clutch, front and rear mains, and i need to do a timing belt and water pump. Brakes also have to be put back on both cars.. lots of work to do, who knows what I'll accomplish, my house keeps coming first.
 
I had a chronic issue with the belt being thrown from the PS after removal of the A/C on my the last built engine. Happened three or four times. Tom was having the same issue I believe. Once I installed the latest engine, it didn't happen before or after I reinstalled the A/C.

The belt seems like it rides very close to the edge of the pulley, I tightened it a little tighter so it should stay.
How did you tune for fuel cut with the AFC? I turned the boost down to 15 but it still hits fuel cut in cooler weather.
 
The belt seems like it rides very close to the edge of the pulley, I tightened it a little tighter so it should stay.
How did you tune for fuel cut with the AFC? I turned the boost down to 15 but it still hits fuel cut in cooler weather.
My belt walk problem was due to some misalignment at the pivot bolt for the ps pump. Loosen everything, run a straight edge across multiple pulleys, and then tighten everything back up.

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Try changing the coils with the old coils, check the wiring to the coil packs and ensure the wires are seated well, both at the coil and on the plug. Any leaks in the charge piping?

The OE coils went back in and made no difference. I have aluminum piping and top quality couplers and clamps, so no leaks. Car will startm vac sits at -16 and it sounds like its running on two cylinders only.

Pulled all the plugs to check them. Cylinder 1 and 4 plugs looked perfectly normal. Cylinder 2 and 3 looked sooty. All 4 were fresh plugs with less than 2 miles on them.

Going to pull the injectors and replace all of the o-rings. Hopefully its just a vac leak at those cylinders and not two bad injectors.

What are my injector options for replacements if they are bad? I just need OE level replacements and not bigger ones.
 
The OE coils went back in and made no difference. I have aluminum piping and top quality couplers and clamps, so no leaks. Car will startm vac sits at -16 and it sounds like its running on two cylinders only.

Pulled all the plugs to check them. Cylinder 1 and 4 plugs looked perfectly normal. Cylinder 2 and 3 looked sooty. All 4 were fresh plugs with less than 2 miles on them.

Going to pull the injectors and replace all of the o-rings. Hopefully its just a vac leak at those cylinders and not two bad injectors.

What are my injector options for replacements if they are bad? I just need OE level replacements and not bigger ones.
Just out of curiosity, do you have VTCS/VICS?? I remember xdjdubx a while back kept having a very similar issue and his screws came lose and were bouncing around in the cylinder knocking out the plugs.
 
The MSP intake manifold has slightly more robust VICS flaps and screws, they didn't fall under the recall Mazda put out back in the day. I know it sounds crazy but I have taken my MSP manifold and the stock DE mani apart when I did a motor swap in one of my MSPs and they do appear slightly different. It's still possible the screws are backing out but unlikely.

Boostr if you need injectors I have a couple extra sets. I don't think injector seals would cause such a large leak but it's worth a shot.
 
1552 has sat for over a month. After bleeding the clutch hydraulics, I had no improvement on the situation that lead to them being replaced. I finally ponied up this week and had the clutch replaced. Found my problem in the process.
attachment.php


So... That will be fixed by this afternoon. Also having the Yellowspeed coilovers removed and stock Tokico/RB springs reinstalled as well as the replacement of my final swaybar endlink. She should be back on the road by Friday if all goes as planned. yay.
 

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1552 has sat for over a month. After bleeding the clutch hydraulics, I had no improvement on the situation that lead to them being replaced. I finally ponied up this week and had the clutch replaced. Found my problem in the process.
attachment.php


So... That will be fixed by this afternoon. Also having the Yellowspeed coilovers removed and stock Tokico/RB springs reinstalled as well as the replacement of my final swaybar endlink. She should be back on the road by Friday if all goes as planned. yay.

well that looks like s*** lol.

i'll say you had a problem.

why are you removing the coils in place of stock?
 
The ride quality sucks for an old guy like me. Car bounces and bounds over bumps like a lowrider on hydraulics. Some adjustment might have improved it, but I went to lift the car and the perches seem pretty frozen which caused the spanner to bend.
 
How much for used coils ;)

No clue. After they are off and cleaned up, I'll likely post them on here. Need to make sure the threads and/or perches aren't damaged. I think corrosion on a Chicago car is why I couldn't get them to adjust but if hitting the threads with a wire brush and pb blaster can't get the perch adjustment working, they aren't worth too much...
 
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