What have you done to your MSP today?

you should pick up an msp. mhmm. yup. done deal. decision made.

If I wanted to do that, it'd just make sense to use all of my OEM MSP parts and install them to the P5. That's what my plan was, but I'd rather do something else. I think it's time for me to leave the BJ chassis behind completely.
 
I've also got ARP studs, ARP flywheel bolts an K1 rods for an FS. If I had pistons I could have a "built engine" for it.
 
Yeah, Im sure it has. Originally was a florida car i guess, and then the guy I bought it from brought it up here to New England. Anyone has the list of production numbers so I can just do a broad search for this car and see who had it on here.
 
AWESOME!, couldnt find that thread, I found the one with the two links to MazdaUSA's website that no longer work.

Edit: Apparently, my MSP is #563
 
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I saw that car on Craigslist and thought about using it as a parts car, nice pick up man!


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was hoping to pick up a used haltech pretty soon, but looks like i need to buy winter tires and a new front caliper =\ i might upgrade to ms6 front brakes, or at least m6s. sucks as i just did the pads and rotors in the summer heh.
also considering a redo on my intercooler setup. the size is fine and the piping is working just fine, but the intake slurping sound is starting to bother me and the hks is just too obnoxious for the draily drive. thinking of going for a slightly taller core as i tucked the intercooler up into the crashbar and trying out a GFB dual port bov and full cai instead of the sri im running. pretty hard to tone down a bright yellow car, but the turbo spooling is just too loud for 7 psi.
 
was hoping to pick up a used haltech pretty soon, but looks like i need to buy winter tires and a new front caliper =\ i might upgrade to ms6 front brakes, or at least m6s. sucks as i just did the pads and rotors in the summer heh.
also considering a redo on my intercooler setup. the size is fine and the piping is working just fine, but the intake slurping sound is starting to bother me and the hks is just too obnoxious for the draily drive. thinking of going for a slightly taller core as i tucked the intercooler up into the crashbar and trying out a GFB dual port bov and full cai instead of the sri im running. pretty hard to tone down a bright yellow car, but the turbo spooling is just too loud for 7 psi.


What side caliper?
 
driver side. i could prob just as easily order a rebuild kit.
 
Busy weekend outside of cars, but still managed to squeeze in some time to get some little things done.

Replaced a wheel stud on the back right.


Got the rear calipers apart (seized caliper slide pins). Passenger side gave to PB and a rubber mallet, the driverside was much harder, lots of heat, 2.5lbs sledge hammer, pb, rinse repeat... Then the slide pin snapped when trying to unscrew from the bracket. Luckily my machinist friend saved the day and got that sorted.








Also, met a guy some what local to pickup a cheap mid-pipe, ended up getting a radio bezel and shift boot tossed in, and snagged the P5 Headlights for $60/pair. Now, I have decided to paint the housings and retrofit



 
im half looking for another p5 lol. since i moved to nanaimo, ive put like 6k on my car... I want to get a high milage p5 i can drive the long distances and leave winter tires on much of the year. i missed one in van for $500 but there is another one in port alberni for a good price that looks pretty good aside from a rusty hatch.
i just dont want to get one with rusty fenders. i can handle a little funk though.
there is a 1.6 liter 2000 in victoria im half tempted to get as he only wants $500 for it. but meh. if i get another pro id like to have a wagon for utility. the 1.6 would be amazing for the commute though. all highway.
if i had the money for it, there is a laser in van that is pretty loaded and in good condition. all the options and leather.. $3500 is a little high though for anything over 200km. if i end up with another silver one or black, i might paint it laser just cause i like that color quite a lot. and it will look so sexy next to my yellow msp. funny how insuring two cars year round will cost me less than finding a place to store one lol.
 
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**** living in a place where I'm forced to park my car in the winter. No way.
 
Busy day yesterday working on the MSP. Waiting for parts to come in so I am focusing on cosmetics and other fixes I can do without anything new.

1. Painted my 03.5 lip off my 00 Protege 16w to replace the cracked and warped 03 lip on the car. Also, it will look better with the 03.5 spoiler on the car and 03.5 axle back that will be going on this off the 00 protege.


2. Got it on the car too..


3. Painted some trim that was a bit beat up


4.Wired up the Pioneer Avic-D1 and got that working. Found that the driver front speaker is a bit weak. Might have to swap a speaker from the 00.

And as I was laying under the back of the car getting the lip on I admired how clean this car is underneath. My 00 has nothing but rust and rot under.
 
Moving was a nessessity kinda. I can work anywhere and make a good wage but the average house price in my home town is 1millions now.
I moved 2 hrs up the highway and i seriously spend half and make the same. I dont commute that distance but what used to be an 8 minute commute is now a half hour.
If im gonna spend an hour driving every day i want it to be a car that isnt rare lol. Ill still drive the msp to shops and round town ect.
Rent where i was would have cost over $2000 lol. I could own for that easily but getting approved and having $50000 cash has always been the hangup with such high cost of living. Nanaimo is much better. Maybe two years and ill finally own.
 
Got the same problem now a few weeks after installing new coils, wires and plugs.

Car just seems to lose power, check engine light flashes and it bucks a bit. That's exactly what it started doing prior to changing those parts. I had the OE coils and wires with 136K on them so I figured that would solve it and it did for a few weeks. I still cannot get my friends scanner to work with my car and its parked so I can't go to Discount. I just cleared the pcm and all was fine with no CEL until about a week ago. It flashed on drive back from testing but is now just steady on again.

I'm stumped! Wondering if its starving for fuel due to the fact that the OE fuel pump is still in there and its wearing worn and not pumping out enough fuel pressure?

Any other ideas or suggestions. Also what should the fuel pressure be?
 
Got the same problem now a few weeks after installing new coils, wires and plugs.

Car just seems to lose power, check engine light flashes and it bucks a bit. That's exactly what it started doing prior to changing those parts. I had the OE coils and wires with 136K on them so I figured that would solve it and it did for a few weeks. I still cannot get my friends scanner to work with my car and its parked so I can't go to Discount. I just cleared the pcm and all was fine with no CEL until about a week ago. It flashed on drive back from testing but is now just steady on again.

I'm stumped! Wondering if its starving for fuel due to the fact that the OE fuel pump is still in there and its wearing worn and not pumping out enough fuel pressure?

Any other ideas or suggestions. Also what should the fuel pressure be?

Sounds like spark blowout from improperly gapped plugs. Unless you regapped them, they were probably pre-gapped for an NA car at .042 or whatever it is and not .028-.032.

I say this because when I first got my car I experienced something similar, but I could only get 1,000 miles or so out of plugs. Went through three sets before I actually referenced information (from here) pertaining to plug gap. All AllData, Motors and Chilton showed was the .042" for the FI. Replace them and it'd be okay for a few weeks then start getting a P0300 again. Not saying that's what the problem is, but it's definitely worth a check unless you know for certain the gap was set to spec.
 
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