What have you done to your MSP today?

So you can change bearings w/o pulling the motor at all?

and you can do the same for the rod bolts? I've heard this from a couple people, not just mazdas, that upgrading the rod bolts is a good idea.......... ready go......
 
yes you can do it with the motor in the car but you have to take the trans off so you can get to the 2 bolts that hold the windage tray on inside the transmission
 
Spun bearing is when the bearing has overheated and fused itself to the crank journal and is spinning inside the rod. That will starve that journal of oil and will worsen over time. This is generally caused due to lack of oil.

Damn.. sounds serious..

Im Glad Before shipping my car here to Spain TBK Changed all OEM Rod Bearings I've putted when i did my engine, TBK replaced them with Clevite 77 ones..

I'll be right back have to step out for an hour or so. BTW i have a question about my thermostat, the Mazda Dealer From here Found me a thermostat for it looks a little different from the USA model, according to them they have to get it from Japan instead from USAi i'll post pictures and part number of it. i need you to help me find out if this is the same exact. cause looks different to my current one...
 
yes you can do it with the motor in the car but you have to take the trans off so you can get to the 2 bolts that hold the windage tray on inside the transmission

yea, you can do it in the car

however you don't need to pull the trans off at all....there are holes in the bottom of the tranny where those two bolts are, you just gotta get a 10mm socket on an extension to get them out (thumb)
 
lol, wasn't intended that way...just correcting him....I've done this quite a few times now (pulled apart the bottom end, not spun bearings lol)
 
naw I was messing with him. but I'm getting that done soon, the rod bolts upgraded along with a standalone, so I'm hoping this will help with the boost increase. 9-11psi maybe 12psi or more once in a blue moon but, I've felt 9psi already with this urbo upgrade and I like it alot. 10psi should be tops for me until I can get the built motor.
 
do not go over 10 psi

its not the rod bolts that break, its the rods that actually snap....replacing the rod bolts really isn't going to do much for you and I wouldn't really recommend pulling apart your bottom end to do that unless you replace the rods and pistons as well....
 
Damn.. sounds serious..

Im Glad Before shipping my car here to Spain TBK Changed all OEM Rod Bearings I've putted when i did my engine, TBK replaced them with Clevite 77 ones..

I'll be right back have to step out for an hour or so. BTW i have a question about my thermostat, the Mazda Dealer From here Found me a thermostat for it looks a little different from the USA model, according to them they have to get it from Japan instead from USAi i'll post pictures and part number of it. i need you to help me find out if this is the same exact. cause looks different to my current one...

Do you have an upgraded oil pan?

If not you should order an APC baffled oil pan. It won't solve the oil problem but it will help.
 
Finally got enough time together to change out the wastegate.

Didn't have enough extensions to do it right taking it out, that was a horrible, horrible hour and a half I spent fighting the universal joint. Broke the stock clip to pieces getting it off, got a pack of replacements from autozone with a couple new extensions, putting the new one in took about 20 minutes thanks to my lovely wife and her tiny hands. Good lord they were a lifesaver.
 
do not go over 10 psi

its not the rod bolts that break, its the rods that actually snap....replacing the rod bolts really isn't going to do much for you and I wouldn't really recommend pulling apart your bottom end to do that unless you replace the rods and pistons as well....

wait so its possible to change your internals just by dropping the bottom end???, as in u can leave the motor in the car. i have never torn apart the motor or a motor in general so i really dont know all that much.
 
no I'm not saying you can swap the rods and pistons without pulling the head lol

I'm saying YES you can swap the rod bolts without pulling the transmission/head...but I wouldn't bother with doing that because there are no gains and you are just asking to get into trouble by tearing a working system apart

you have to pull the head to swap the rods and pistons
 
i wouldnt swap anything with new rings on it without 1st honing the cylinder walls which requires you to take out the botom end and disassemble it
 

New Threads and Articles

Back