Most likely you LSD let go. Sucks. I've always seen it posted that you should not try to move after the pop. But I have not experienced this issue thus far and hope not to before I sell the car, so I'm not really certain on the whole don't try to move it aftwerwards issue under power.
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
Definitely the LSD.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
+1 LSD for sure, labor should be anywhere from 6-9 hours depending on the shop. OEM revised LSD is ~$500, it's a good time for a new clutch if it needs one.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
Just ordered a single DIN triple gauge panel and Intellitronix ($60 from eBay) oil pressure gauge. Going to relocate my wideband and boost gauges to the DIN location from the A pillar. While I'm in that area, going to replace the failed OE Kenwood head unit.
I want to pull the engine and have disassembled prior to all my parts arriving. I'm still trying to decide whether or not to locate a crankshaft or machine one of mine. I've already got a set of Clevite standard bearings and want to avoid going through returning them and ordering oversized.
I also need to remove the engine harness for replacement and at that time, full install my V2 for datalogging.
I've got a few things getting addressed and taken care of this time around.
I want to pull the engine and have disassembled prior to all my parts arriving. I'm still trying to decide whether or not to locate a crankshaft or machine one of mine. I've already got a set of Clevite standard bearings and want to avoid going through returning them and ordering oversized.
I also need to remove the engine harness for replacement and at that time, full install my V2 for datalogging.
I've got a few things getting addressed and taken care of this time around.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
did you assassinate another one?
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
You missed it?!?!
About a month ago I was chasing a GSXR on The Dragon and came through a hairpin lefty, saw the oil light flicker for a minute, and heard it as soon as I came out of the turn. Tried to limp it home, but decided not to chance it. Disassambled the engine and replaced the bearings. Number four rod cap had evidence of overheating. Reassembled it and the engine was "tight" and went ahead with the reinstallation against my own judgement. Drove it for a few days and at idle the oil pressure light started coming on at idle and there's a "tapping" from #4. I should have measured the rod after seeing the heat marks in the cap and definitely should have stopped reassembly once I realized the excessive force it took to turn the engine over by hand. Ordered new bearings and a replacement K1 rod. Would really, really love to get the Doc B setup, but I just dropped $1,850 on the RX8 last Friday. I know the AWR won't correct the bad oiling system on the FS, but it'll at least help I believe.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
oh duh thats right
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
So, in short: I Preferio'd it... Again...
new term for mazdas247. I PREFERIO'D IT!
protege3690
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP #290
went to a cars & coffee meet last week. last minute thing. fed the car some coffee. i have an annoying clunk that just appeared out of no where 2 weeks ago on the rear right corner. i'm thinking it's the endlink.
Hmmmm.....I've also had this issue in the right rear after changing shocks
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
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- New Caney TX
Endlink, broken endlink tab on the strut body or broken swaybar bracket... I've had all three at one time or another.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
I haven't driven the MSP in the Winter since going with the 3" exhaust. That coupled with my AWRs and Illuminas/Eibachs should make for a nice, squeaky, noisy ride when it's cold.
Other than full standalone, there is no other way to avoid overloading the MAF, right? That kills driving the car in the winter. Anything above 9-10psi, mid to high RPMs and BAM!
Other than full standalone, there is no other way to avoid overloading the MAF, right? That kills driving the car in the winter. Anything above 9-10psi, mid to high RPMs and BAM!
float_6969
Member
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- 2003.5 MSP Blue #2450, 1995 Nissan 240sx, 1996 Mazda Miata
IDK if it's been done on a MSP yet, but here is an idea...
part 1 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2424/article.html
part 2 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2449/article.html
Should be able to adjust for the change in MAFS voltage vs. fueling with an SSAFC. I am assuming the boost cut is related to MAFS voltage? Would work even better if larger injectors were used, as the decrease in MAFS voltage could be tuned to partially offset the injectors.
part 1 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2424/article.html
part 2 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2449/article.html
Should be able to adjust for the change in MAFS voltage vs. fueling with an SSAFC. I am assuming the boost cut is related to MAFS voltage? Would work even better if larger injectors were used, as the decrease in MAFS voltage could be tuned to partially offset the injectors.
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there is no boost cut in this car. just fuel cut when the ecu senses a out of spec running condition, ie super high maf voltage when its cold out and coming onto the boost. ssafc stock tune seems to eliminate this problem, possibly because it clamps the maf voltage to the stock ecu. though larger injectors would be needed to use it to its potential. i received mine with the stock super tune and haven't bothered to have that tuned further for climate. just works better than stock. only 8psi though. maybe i can up that to 12 this summer with the supporting mods.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Can't you set the maximum voltage the MAF will see in the R4 software for the AFC? I have had good luck with fuel cut, only had it maybe 2-3 times since installing the AFC.
