What have you done to your MSP today?

Well a Cometic head gasket is priced over $100 on crossover, but you could talk to a local Napa or random parts store near you for a cheaper option. Surely you would need to replace the coolant and oil like you said, as well as the head studs since they need replaced every time you remove the head. Other than that, I'm really not sure and if you are having it done professionally then labor will probably be an arm and a leg.

I am having it done professionally but was one of his first customers so i get cut a substantial break on labor and parts are always at the price he would pay to order without markup. Are ARP head studs really worth the extra cross? Online the reviews are all mixed

I would love to do it myself but there is too much going on at school right now and I dont have a sufficient work area even if i did have the time.
 
I am having it done professionally but was one of his first customers so i get cut a substantial break on labor and parts are always at the price he would pay to order without markup. Are ARP head studs really worth the extra cross? Online the reviews are all mixed

Well that's good to hear. In that case I would have him diagnose the problem to be certain before ordering the parts. You should be fine with OEM mazda head bolts. I think people usually get the ARP bolts if they get any type of head work done (valve job, port, etc..)
 
Well that's good to hear. In that case I would have him diagnose the problem to be certain before ordering the parts. You should be fine with OEM mazda head bolts. I think people usually get the ARP bolts if they get any type of head work done (valve job, port, etc..)

He is, he told me to hold off on ordering anything just to make sure that it is a bad headgasket, yeah I dont have any huge mods that would require really expensive heavy duty studs
 
I got the exhaust back together... Got a quote on 3" back to the factory flange at the muffler so I can bolt up the Corksport with ease and switch between it and the Racing Beat OE muffler. Why you might ask... Because going on roadtrips with my girlfriend in a loud car would result in me being put in prison for murdering her because of her bitching...
 
I got the exhaust back together... Got a quote on 3" back to the factory flange at the muffler so I can bolt up the Corksport with ease and switch between it and the Racing Beat OE muffler. Why you might ask... Because going on roadtrips with my girlfriend in a loud car would result in me being put in prison for murdering her because of her bitching...
just get a silencer and remove it when you want it loud and when you go on roadtrips bolt it back it for your girl. Allot less work than re doing the exhaust system.
 
Installed hella horns. Sound great.

But unplugged the stock alarm... It's messing up on me lately like crazy. Yesterday my car wouldn't start hence why I removed it. D:
 
fricken curbed one of my white racing harts today =( tires are too narrow to protect the rim =(

ah well, gave me an excuse to buy a new tool which will come in handy fixing it.

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Well that's good to hear. In that case I would have him diagnose the problem to be certain before ordering the parts. You should be fine with OEM mazda head bolts. I think people usually get the ARP bolts if they get any type of head work done (valve job, port, etc..)

Most people get the ARP studs because they are $80 cheaper than the OEM bolts. Definitely have the head checked and cleaned to make sure it is true. The valves on these cars are typically good for over 150k miles before they need a valve job. I have the $40 bolts from Rockauto and they have been fine for quite a while now.
 
Most people get the ARP studs because they are $80 cheaper than the OEM bolts. Definitely have the head checked and cleaned to make sure it is true. The valves on these cars are typically good for over 150k miles before they need a valve job. I have the $40 bolts from Rockauto and they have been fine for quite a while now.

LOL say what? Okay well OEM style, not necessarily stealership bolts. ARP is good stuff and I've been using them for the manifold, turbo and downpipe. But they are pricey bastards.
 
going in to try and seperate the hub from the axle later today... they pretty much look like they rusted into one piece :/
 
Most people get the ARP studs because they are $80 cheaper than the OEM bolts. Definitely have the head checked and cleaned to make sure it is true. The valves on these cars are typically good for over 150k miles before they need a valve job. I have the $40 bolts from Rockauto and they have been fine for quite a while now.

Where have you heard that? I've been needing to redo the valve on my car for the past 15-20k roughly and i have 128k give or take on it. Full syn oil change every 3k since I got the car with 39k on it.
 
That's cause your car is gay stealth ;-)


I will be pulling the lip lip off to get it repaired for import alliance in 2 weeks.
 
Still soaking the axle and hubs with pb blaster ... Last resort is cutting axle and I have a nother one to put in with a new to me hub
 
^^^ what these two guys said.


Also what is the standard procedure when waxing a car with a cf hood? I thought i heard you can't wax cf....but I could be wrong. For reference I use meguires cleaning wax.
 
^^^ what these two guys said.


Also what is the standard procedure when waxing a car with a cf hood? I thought i heard you can't wax cf....but I could be wrong. For reference I use meguires cleaning wax.

i detail all of my cf parts the same way as the rest of the car, the CF actually needs the protection more then the rest of the car so the gelcoat does not go cloudy.
 
Or flake off... which is what happened on my Honda. (my fault)
 

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