What have you done to your MSP today?

Wagonbacker9 said:
you HAVE to put the block to the left (facing the engine bay, intake side) of the check valve, or it will see only vacuum, and not boost. This means your WGA won't function AT ALL.

I would strongly recommend keeping the check valve, as your power brakes depend on vacuum, and without the check valve, unless your engine has the opportunity to rebuild vacuum in the brake booster after you are done boosting, you will have weaker brakes. This is bad on the street, and much worse at the track where fast transitions are common. and that doesn't even account for if you are heel-toeing. aside from that, I don't know how well the booster would physically tolerate having boost thrown at it, as it isn't designed for it, again, not recommended.
Click to expand...

I plan on moving my vacuum block to the brake booster very soon. A tech at my work (not a turbo expert) suggested that having too many connections to the vacuum block might be a bad idea when hooking up to the brake booster. Any thoughts and experiences? On my vacuum block I have: boost gauge, ems, bpv, bov and ebc. Basically every aftermarket device that uses vacuum lol. In case you are wondering, my WGA is connected to the EBC and the EBC is connected to the vacuum block.
 
Ricktalife said:
I plan on moving my vacuum block to the brake booster very soon. A tech at my work (not a turbo expert) suggested that having too many connections to the vacuum block might be a bad idea when hooking up to the brake booster. Any thoughts and experiences? On my vacuum block I have: boost gauge, ems, bpv, bov and ebc. Basically every aftermarket device that uses vacuum lol. In case you are wondering, my WGA is connected to the EBC and the EBC is connected to the vacuum block.
Click to expand...

the booster line is the biggest of the vacuum ports, and can take the addition FAR easier than any other port. Remember, this is very little to no 'flow' in vacuum lines.
 
orng1 said:
Yeah, without the check valve you will not have brakes. Not a good idea to replace it.
Click to expand...

this isnt true...at all
the brakes dont work on vacuum, hence the name brake BOOSTER, it just makes the pedal easier to push
without a brake booster, the brakes still work...there are actually people who delete them
 
Wagonbacker9 said:
you HAVE to put the block to the left (facing the enginea bay, intake side) of the check valve, or it will see only vacuum, and not boost. This means your WGA won't function AT ALL.

I would strongly recommend keeping the check valve, as your power brakes depend on vacuum, and without the check valve, unless your engine has the opportunity to rebuild vacuum in the brake booster after you are done boosting, you will have weaker brakes. This is bad on the street, and much worse at the track where fast transitions are common. and that doesn't even account for if you are heel-toeing. aside from that, I don't know how well the booster would physically tolerate having boost thrown at it, as it isn't designed for it, again, not recommended.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks for the info
 
justanothermp5 said:
this isnt true...at all
the brakes dont work on vacuum, hence the name brake BOOSTER, it just makes the pedal easier to push
without a brake booster, the brakes still work...there are actually people who delete them
Click to expand...

the brakes don't operate on vacuum... the brake booster does. Removing your brake booster is about as smart as eliminating the power steering pump.
 
R&R'd both drive belts, oil & filter change, checked and tightened cylinder head cover bolts, hard pipe clamps, cai clamps and washed it.
 
took the cover off, and brought her out of the garage for the 1st time this year. went out, got some gas, a wash, and back
in the garage under her covers for another 2 months. :-( I hate winter!!!
 
I go ZOOM ZOOM once more! muhahahahahah Now what has me puzzled is how in the **** does a breather filter on the valve cover **** s*** all up and cause my WB to get disco fever? lol
 
Ricktalife said:
Instead of a breather filter I would get a catch can and hook that up to the crank case.
Click to expand...

I plan on running two one on each end of the VC later on. I only did the filter due to getting "blow by" out of my oil fill cap. It seems to have solved that problem and yes I did install a new PCV at the same. Either way it seems to be running correctly now so ill leave the filter off.

I did purchase a injen CAI/SRI(missing the cold air part) but I need to pick up another coupler and some clamps for it to get away from this perrin sri.
 
Well I thought I had the isuse fixed but I guess I was wrong on that... So I traded in the MAF beings that it was unerwarrenty and tried that... no dice. So I took it to a local tuner shop to have it looked at. To make a long story short I have a massive boost leak at the Throttle body on the butterfly rod and my IAT senor was going nuts. It was sayign it was -40 outside when it was 46 outside and then the next min say it was 86... So tomorrow I guess ill go get a new IAT sensor from Mazda and see what that does.


I also installed my Injen converted to SRI... which puts the fitler right over the CAI hole on the car.

Edit: The shop also threw my car on the dyno to check AFR against my WB and to see the car acting up. And I put down 142whp at 3lbs of boost... We also put a MBC on it just to see what it would do 7psi and I was putting down like 174whp.
 
Last edited:
I have a hesitation issue going on. Looked under the hood today to check hoses and what not. Found a nice 2" hairline crack in my exhaust manifold. I suspect that could be causing it. I am currently looking into replacing it.
 
StealthWyvern said:
Well I thought I had the isuse fixed but I guess I was wrong on that... So I traded in the MAF beings that it was unerwarrenty and tried that... no dice. So I took it to a local tuner shop to have it looked at. To make a long story short I have a massive boost leak at the Throttle body on the butterfly rod and my IAT senor was going nuts. It was sayign it was -40 outside when it was 46 outside and then the next min say it was 86... So tomorrow I guess ill go get a new IAT sensor from Mazda and see what that does.


I also installed my Injen converted to SRI... which puts the fitler right over the CAI hole on the car.

Edit: The shop also threw my car on the dyno to check AFR against my WB and to see the car acting up. And I put down 142whp at 3lbs of boost... We also put a MBC on it just to see what it would do 7psi and I was putting down like 174whp.
Click to expand...

It was to hard to me to believe it was only the MAF, I was leaning more towards boost leak.
 
orng1 said:
It was to hard to me to believe it was only the MAF, I was leaning more towards boost leak.
Click to expand...

I honestly dont think it was the MAF but I replaced it anyways as it was under warrenty still and to eliminate one part out of the possible list of parts. lol


Edit: Also the first time I had my boost leak test done. I didn't have a leak at the thorttle body.. no leaks what so ever. But that was before the repaired turbo as well.
 
Last edited:
Nice sig pic stealth.

Yesterday I paid for a replacement t25 turbo from a 240sx since mine seems to be leaking oil somewhere. I am also talking to protephile about ordering a Thunder V3 manifold to replace my 1st gen steedspeed since the coating is fubar. Believe it or not, I think it also has a leak at one of the runners. I thought these things were bulletproof by the looks of them lol but hey nothing is perfect. Can't wait until the Spring arrives, so I can put my MB wheels back on along with my Eibach Pro Kit and new mani/turbo/s-pipe combo. Then it's time to for a dyno tune :) oooooooh yea.
 
Ricktalife said:
Nice sig pic stealth.

Yesterday I paid for a replacement t25 turbo from a 240sx since mine seems to be leaking oil somewhere. I am also talking to protephile about ordering a Thunder V3 manifold to replace my 1st gen steedspeed since the coating is fubar. Believe it or not, I think it also has a leak at one of the runners. I thought these things were bulletproof by the looks of them lol but hey nothing is perfect. Can't wait until the Spring arrives, so I can put my MB wheels back on along with my Eibach Pro Kit and new mani/turbo/s-pipe combo. Then it's time to for a dyno tune :) oooooooh yea.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, Omar did the sig pic for me.

On the steedspeed mani have you contacted him about it? From what I undestand they have a life time warranty on then.
 
Just my opinion and experience Steed will take care of you and that mani should never cause as many headaches as the Thunder (mine cracked and I welded it 5x cracking in a different place every time) if you ever have plans to up the boost.

Not sure if the gauge piping had been changed or grade of ss used in the V3 but the one I had was like welding a stick of butter...
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

New Posts and Comments

R
Anyone bothered by the poor front LED lights ?
Replies
2
Views
106
N7turbo
N7turbo
T
    • Wow
  • Sticky
What have you done to your P5 today?
2895 2896 2897
Replies
58K
Views
6M
mazdamaiden
M
I
2016 CX-5 AWD vs 2015 FWD - MPG
2
Replies
25
Views
1K
jonnymopar
J
Z
Mazda Oil Filter Question
2 3
Replies
41
Views
2K
Mazdiod2
Mazdiod2
C
  • Question Question
Apple CarPlay and Android Auto greyed out?
Replies
1
Views
220
Moello
M
sm1ke
    • Like
What have you hauled with your CX-9?
2 3
Replies
59
Views
13K
Agape_365
Agape_365
View more…

New Threads and Articles

Back