What have you done to your MSP today?

Hm.. well on the way to the movies cruising in 5th gear around 45mph-ish my WB is going nuts pig rich.. lean as ****, pig rich, lean as hell... back and forth... like a worthless narrow band! I blipped the throttle and it seem to of went away... And I would of never known anything was going on if it wasn't for the WB. Mayeb a sensor on the way out? Almost forgot the boost gauge was steady at -18!

Well I replaced the main 02 sensor and that didnt fix the problem... The 02 sensor needed to be replaced anyways due to the outter casing or whatever its called being half way missing. However my AFR at idle did improve dramaticly but I still get a 70's light show as someone else has put it on my WB. lol SO I guess ill be putting it in the shop tomorrow beings that I know of no one iwth a fuel presure gauge that I can bum thats local.
 
I think the loan program goes as follows: you buy and use and we let you return. At least that was what my experience was
 
what about advance? they loan tools don't they?

They do but honestly I want to drive my car as little as possible right now and have someone else just deal with the headache. I dont want to tear something up trying to figure out whats going on. I think it might be the fuel pump but not sure.

I think the loan program goes as follows: you buy and use and we let you return. At least that was what my experience was

Yep, thats how it works at autozone at least.
 
Ok so I plan to relocate the maf, seafoam the car and add a vacuum block to the car this spring. My question is on the vacuum block. I have read that the msp has a check valve on the booster line does it matter if I cut in before or after it? Also when I seafoam the car would it be ok to replace the stock booster line with a new silicone line that doesn't have a check valve?
 
Ok so I plan to relocate the maf, seafoam the car and add a vacuum block to the car this spring. My question is on the vacuum block. I have read that the msp has a check valve on the booster line does it matter if I cut in before or after it? Also when I seafoam the car would it be ok to replace the stock booster line with a new silicone line that doesn't have a check valve?

you HAVE to put the block to the left (facing the engine bay, intake side) of the check valve, or it will see only vacuum, and not boost. This means your WGA won't function AT ALL.

I would strongly recommend keeping the check valve, as your power brakes depend on vacuum, and without the check valve, unless your engine has the opportunity to rebuild vacuum in the brake booster after you are done boosting, you will have weaker brakes. This is bad on the street, and much worse at the track where fast transitions are common. and that doesn't even account for if you are heel-toeing. aside from that, I don't know how well the booster would physically tolerate having boost thrown at it, as it isn't designed for it, again, not recommended.
 
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finally removed the Head, flipped that bad boy upside down and surprise, burned valves and 1 on cylinder2 is missing a chunk... hmm i wonder where it went... no clue.

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Motor must have run like poo thats fir sure with the whole zero comp in that can.
 
Well I replaced the main 02 sensor and that didnt fix the problem... The 02 sensor needed to be replaced anyways due to the outter casing or whatever its called being half way missing. However my AFR at idle did improve dramaticly but I still get a 70's light show as someone else has put it on my WB. lol SO I guess ill be putting it in the shop tomorrow beings that I know of no one iwth a fuel presure gauge that I can bum thats local.

The shop didnt charge me because they were unable to find out the problem. Cats are fine, 02 sensors are fine, MAF is fine.... They do say they noticed my fuel trims on the ECU adding 15% more fuel so its running lean.
 
Changed the oil and got some silicone lube stuff for the rear swaybar bushings. Car has been running great in this cold weather with the FPR kit installed
 
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