Dylanrpederson
Member
- :
- 2007 mazdaspeed 6 gt/ black mica/
Successfully pulled and rebuilt my turbo for the first time last weekend!
What have you done to your MS6 today?
- Thread starter bova80
- Start date
OJ Bartley
Member
Yep, I went with all OEM, clutch and flywheel. I didn't want to mess around with aftermarket kits. I was happy with the OEM setup, the parts are quality, and I'd rather pay a little more to have it work out better in the long run.
Did you do the mounts yourself, or have a shop do them? When you say it feels more solid, can you compare the before/after? I just don't know what to expect in how the car's behaviour will change.
SyntheticAtmosp
Member
- :
- 2006 Whitewater pearl MazdaSpeed6 GT
Did this, and so far all is good!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...th-clunking-when-loaded&p=6220876#post6220876
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...th-clunking-when-loaded&p=6220876#post6220876
Well guys just wanted to let u guys know today I tackle my shifter cables and took me a total of 3.5 hours with taking a half hour for lunch... There is no need to remove the dash or paid the dealer 700 in labor for it...car feels awesome .. with the new cable..
Funkster777
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 6
What plan did you follow for this?
Well I did some research and I keep seen was people taking there dashes out and that we all know it leads to rattles and extra parts.. So I figure mazda would not make it so hard for it to be done so here is my way of doing it
We are going to start under the hood.
*Open hood
*Disconnect terminals on the battery
*Remove battery holder
*Remove battery tray
*Now unplug the mass air flow sensor
*Remove the mass air flow sensor and intake.
*At this point u should have access to the shifter cables .
*Use a pry bar to unclip both shifter cables from the mounting bracket.
*With the same pry bar remove both ends of the cables from the linkage
*Now if u follow the cables u can see where they are held against the rear of the engine block with a rubber gourmet. Pull it off from there
*Now the fun begins, get ur self a cutting wheel. I used my mac air one. I cut both cables right before where the silver insulation begins.
*Now ur cables are ready for removal
Time for removing interior pieces.
*First remove the glove box(I'm sure you all know how to do that)
*Time to remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the radio in place. u gain access to this bolt by removing the glove box.
*Unscrew ur shifter knob,remove ur cup holder by pulling it up wards, also remove ur shifter surrounding at this time. *Unplug the plug for the cigarette lighter and small bulb for the ash tray
*With that out , u can now unscrew the 2 Phillips bolts that hold the bottom of the middle counsel in place.(radio heater assembly)
*When the bolts are out u should be able to give it a pull foward and then u can unplug all the plugs from behind it and put it somewhere out of the way.
*Next step is to remove middle counsel (that's the one between ur seats. ) u have a total of 8 Phillips bolt holding it in place . 2 bolts on each side of the counsel, 2 by where u removed the 2 bolts from under the radio bazel,2 by the back of the shifter assembly and the last 2 inside the compartment were u rest ur elbow. Now u can pull the whole assembly out of the way.. now the fun begins..
* on both sides of the bottom of the dash u are going to,find some push clips that hold the floor carpet against the dash.2 on the driver side 1 on the passenger side
* Pull those out and pull the carpet back.
* with the carpet pull back u should see a shinny silver box under ur heater assembly. That s ur srs box( don't worry about ur airbags deploying u disconected the battery a while back)
*The little box is held down by 3, 10 mm bolts 2 of them are on the passenger side and the other bolt is on driver side, unbolt all 3 bolts and Unplug it and pull the the module out of the way pulling it toward the driver side.
*the harness itself is held down by 2 yellow clips, unclip then and pull the harness towards the passenger side.
*Time to get 2 the 2 hardest bolts u will ever have to remove lol..they are 10mm nut.
*Now reach in behind the lower area of the heater box and pull the insulation out of the way...its split in the middle so some will go to the driver side and some to the passenger side
*Now u should be able to see the 2 nuts that hold the cable base to the floor of the car.
*I was able to remove the 2 nuts with a long 10mm open end wrench. I was able to get them loose with the wrench and with the tip of my finger took them all the way off. Do the driver side nut from the driver side and the passenger side one from the passenger side.
*Once they are off then it's pretty much cake from there. Use the ply bar to ply the bracket off the studs themselves and it will be ready for removal..
*Disconnect ur cables from the shifter assembly itself and get ready to pull.
*Now have someone help you pull on the cables from inside the car while u carefully get the mounting bracket thru the bottom section of the dash. After the bracket is out just pull the rest of the cables thru..
For the installation do it in reverse order .. I sprayed my cables with wd40'just so that it would slide back in place easy.
And get those 2 10 mm nuts back in place and tighten them.. Is going to be a pain but it can be done.
*Open hood
*Disconnect terminals on the battery
*Remove battery holder
*Remove battery tray
*Now unplug the mass air flow sensor
*Remove the mass air flow sensor and intake.
*At this point u should have access to the shifter cables .
*Use a pry bar to unclip both shifter cables from the mounting bracket.
*With the same pry bar remove both ends of the cables from the linkage
*Now if u follow the cables u can see where they are held against the rear of the engine block with a rubber gourmet. Pull it off from there
*Now the fun begins, get ur self a cutting wheel. I used my mac air one. I cut both cables right before where the silver insulation begins.
*Now ur cables are ready for removal
Time for removing interior pieces.
*First remove the glove box(I'm sure you all know how to do that)
*Time to remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the radio in place. u gain access to this bolt by removing the glove box.
*Unscrew ur shifter knob,remove ur cup holder by pulling it up wards, also remove ur shifter surrounding at this time. *Unplug the plug for the cigarette lighter and small bulb for the ash tray
*With that out , u can now unscrew the 2 Phillips bolts that hold the bottom of the middle counsel in place.(radio heater assembly)
*When the bolts are out u should be able to give it a pull foward and then u can unplug all the plugs from behind it and put it somewhere out of the way.
*Next step is to remove middle counsel (that's the one between ur seats. ) u have a total of 8 Phillips bolt holding it in place . 2 bolts on each side of the counsel, 2 by where u removed the 2 bolts from under the radio bazel,2 by the back of the shifter assembly and the last 2 inside the compartment were u rest ur elbow. Now u can pull the whole assembly out of the way.. now the fun begins..
* on both sides of the bottom of the dash u are going to,find some push clips that hold the floor carpet against the dash.2 on the driver side 1 on the passenger side
* Pull those out and pull the carpet back.
* with the carpet pull back u should see a shinny silver box under ur heater assembly. That s ur srs box( don't worry about ur airbags deploying u disconected the battery a while back)
*The little box is held down by 3, 10 mm bolts 2 of them are on the passenger side and the other bolt is on driver side, unbolt all 3 bolts and Unplug it and pull the the module out of the way pulling it toward the driver side.
*the harness itself is held down by 2 yellow clips, unclip then and pull the harness towards the passenger side.
*Time to get 2 the 2 hardest bolts u will ever have to remove lol..they are 10mm nut.
*Now reach in behind the lower area of the heater box and pull the insulation out of the way...its split in the middle so some will go to the driver side and some to the passenger side
*Now u should be able to see the 2 nuts that hold the cable base to the floor of the car.
*I was able to remove the 2 nuts with a long 10mm open end wrench. I was able to get them loose with the wrench and with the tip of my finger took them all the way off. Do the driver side nut from the driver side and the passenger side one from the passenger side.
*Once they are off then it's pretty much cake from there. Use the ply bar to ply the bracket off the studs themselves and it will be ready for removal..
*Disconnect ur cables from the shifter assembly itself and get ready to pull.
*Now have someone help you pull on the cables from inside the car while u carefully get the mounting bracket thru the bottom section of the dash. After the bracket is out just pull the rest of the cables thru..
For the installation do it in reverse order .. I sprayed my cables with wd40'just so that it would slide back in place easy.
And get those 2 10 mm nuts back in place and tighten them.. Is going to be a pain but it can be done.
OJ Bartley
Member
No kidding. I have a buzzing/rattle in behind the dash somewhere in the console that drives me nuts. Sounds like a loose clip or something. I'll have to take it apart and fix soon.
I ordered my AP V3 yesterday, so should be here in a week or 2 (local vendor). (nana) I'm trying to read everything I can about tuning, but I'm still pretty scared to Zoom Zoom Boom. Much more reading required.
That crazzy I hate rattles too.. so today I added a mazdaspeed oil cap .. I'm guessing that's a 10 horses extra I just gained... I can definitely out run a Honda now.. lol
OJ Bartley
Member
Looking for a new set of winter tires. Anyone have an opinion on:
- Hankook W409 Winter i-Pike
- Hankook Winter i-cept Evo
- Michelin X-Ice Xi3
They all look decent, posted from lowest to highest price. The i-Pike gets pretty good reviews (4.3/5 on 1010tires) and I'm leaning that way.
- Hankook W409 Winter i-Pike
- Hankook Winter i-cept Evo
- Michelin X-Ice Xi3
They all look decent, posted from lowest to highest price. The i-Pike gets pretty good reviews (4.3/5 on 1010tires) and I'm leaning that way.
Funkster777
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 6
I know nothing about those tires or have experience with them. Sorry, can't help.
I was updating the MAF calc MOnday when picking something up. On way back I had lots of hesitation and heard grinding in the back. Slowed and eased home. Hesitation and resistance (the best description I have). I looked underneath and see nothing leaking. I suspect two possibilities (knowing my luck both): PTO failure or rear differential failure. A third could be the rear axle failure.
I was able with a bud to check on Tuesday. Checked drive shaft for play: none. Checked pto: no visible leaks. Checked axles: all intact. Checked diff mounts bolts (top and rear): all solid. Rear diff fluid has leaked. Not really more than last time I saw it. Didn't check levels.
Plan. Change rear diff fluid. Need a 23mm and 24mm wrench or socket. I already have the oil and crush washer. Also will change pto fluid. I'll check to see what the condition of the oil is (praying for no metal). Didn't really hear grinding. Haven't driven it and won't until above plan is done. I have the crush washer for the pto as well and a pump. I hope to get it done Sunday. Again praying that nothing went major wrong but knowing my luck; it did.
I was updating the MAF calc MOnday when picking something up. On way back I had lots of hesitation and heard grinding in the back. Slowed and eased home. Hesitation and resistance (the best description I have). I looked underneath and see nothing leaking. I suspect two possibilities (knowing my luck both): PTO failure or rear differential failure. A third could be the rear axle failure.
I was able with a bud to check on Tuesday. Checked drive shaft for play: none. Checked pto: no visible leaks. Checked axles: all intact. Checked diff mounts bolts (top and rear): all solid. Rear diff fluid has leaked. Not really more than last time I saw it. Didn't check levels.
Plan. Change rear diff fluid. Need a 23mm and 24mm wrench or socket. I already have the oil and crush washer. Also will change pto fluid. I'll check to see what the condition of the oil is (praying for no metal). Didn't really hear grinding. Haven't driven it and won't until above plan is done. I have the crush washer for the pto as well and a pump. I hope to get it done Sunday. Again praying that nothing went major wrong but knowing my luck; it did.
OJ Bartley
Member
Fingers crossed for you, Funkster. I went through a whole lot of PTO/Dif trouble last year and it wasn't fun (or cheap).
Funkster777
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 6
THAT'S my fear.
SyntheticAtmosp
Member
- :
- 2006 Whitewater pearl MazdaSpeed6 GT
@ OJ - Where did you get your AP locally?
Dodged a few bullets today...
-Found coolant on my garage floor last night. Didn't drive the car to work today, but spent all day sweating about it. Turns out it was my Fathers Freestar from Sunday.
-While idling the car and diagnosing non existent coolant loss this evening, I noticed the white exhaust phenomenon. Immediately went into panic mode, then noticed my OCC was right full. Drained it, idled the car some more, drained it again & smoke was gone...whew! Needless to say I think I should have purchased a larger catch can with all the rain we've had this year.
-Seeing as all my cars were in the garage recently, it could have been my MS6, my winter car(99 Protege) or my wifes Hyundai SantaFe (purchased 3 months ago) leaking green on the ground. Although I will still have to fix the Freestar, I wont have to pay for it.
Dodged a few bullets today...
-Found coolant on my garage floor last night. Didn't drive the car to work today, but spent all day sweating about it. Turns out it was my Fathers Freestar from Sunday.
-While idling the car and diagnosing non existent coolant loss this evening, I noticed the white exhaust phenomenon. Immediately went into panic mode, then noticed my OCC was right full. Drained it, idled the car some more, drained it again & smoke was gone...whew! Needless to say I think I should have purchased a larger catch can with all the rain we've had this year.
-Seeing as all my cars were in the garage recently, it could have been my MS6, my winter car(99 Protege) or my wifes Hyundai SantaFe (purchased 3 months ago) leaking green on the ground. Although I will still have to fix the Freestar, I wont have to pay for it.
