I have the last kind and no problems for about 50k miles. I'm not sure if you can even get these anymore though FWIW.
PG has the TRZ rear motor mount and transmission mount.
http://protegegarage.com/1546-product-1546.html
I have the last kind and no problems for about 50k miles. I'm not sure if you can even get these anymore though FWIW.
i need to get this sorted out soon. before i put a battery box, the ecu and cai and tip back together.
Looking for a pretty stiff durometer unit that can take abuse. The medevil one you have might work for me, not sure.
Thanks for the help and good pics brother!
eric
i have one of these in my garage and i dont care for the fabrication and finish. It's a very early one though.PG has the TRZ rear motor mount and transmission mount.
http://protegegarage.com/1546-product-1546.html
i have one of these in my garage and i dont care for the fabrication and finish. It's a very early one though.
Rotus i had a fellow member link me to the JBR unit and i like the looks and heavy duro.
Could you please go into more detail about " shank supported " pros and cons?
BTW, the sure unit and the cp-e one look to be a very similar design in that the tee pee or lower bracket is made of 2 cnc machined pieces bolted together. I know that early versions of the cp-e had failure in the coupling of the 2 pieces, not sure if that was user error or design error.
Rotus, i had to envision your explanation for a little while. An engineering question it is. How the load is distributed i suppose. I used to have lengthy discussions about this stuff years ago with mechanical engineers i would work with.Although I personally prefer the shank supported design, I think you would be happy if you decide to go with the JBR unit. I've questioned his design ( on the passenger side mount) and he's defended it in a thoughtful and timely manner. He's a real asset to our community.
I liken the thread versus shank support designs to holding yourself up with one hand on a vertical pole or two hands on a horizontal pole (ala pull ups). I know there's no real engineering behind it, just my personal opinion and common sense. So really it's a personal choice and opinion.
The biggest downside to shank supported is the difficulty of installation. There's not much room in there and you have to get the bolt to go through both the top and bottom plates while they are in there. I remember it being a bit of a problem when installing mine and I did it on a lift. Another downside could be that if the fit of the parts is not tight enough, the bolt might shear between the two brackets arms. Please refer to the photo of the sure unit:
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BTW, the sure unit and the cp-e one look to be a very similar design in that the tee pee or lower bracket is made of 2 cnc machined pieces bolted together. I know that early versions of the cp-e had failure in the coupling of the 2 pieces, not sure if that was user error or design error.
I hope that helps.
That would be great. I am willing to learn and scrape some knucklesAs long as Mike makes his way to one of my mod meets, I'm sure there will be more than enough willing hands to lend. I have a 3-car garage that desires nothing but mod meets.
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