Dropped the head off this morning. Found out one guy who works at this shop overhauls rotaries so I might be taking the 13B there when I get ready. He did a quick check of the head and found a little gap in between cylinders 2 and 3, so that was probably what caused the leak. It can be taken care of with milling. They said it should be ready in a couple of days.
What have you done to your Miata today?
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
Thanks. Mine is actually called Mahogany Mica, it's pretty close to Merlot but if you get them side by side you will see a difference. I don't know about Merlot, but Mahogany was only on the 2000 SE (and I can't find that Mazda ever used it on any other car).
Perro del Sol
Member
- :
- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
I wasn't a big fan the first time I saw them, but they have grown on me. And I too love the colors.
Put the driver's seat in position to see how things were going to work. It fits! Some interference with the seat belt tower but I think I can work around it. Need some flat bar to make some cross mounts to attach the seat to the Corbeau sliders, and to receive the used factory mounts I bought in order to cut off the seat belt receiver bracket and weld it onto the Corbeaus.
Looking good Mike!!!!
You sound like me when I'm on the ship!
Just got a call from the shop, they said it could use a valve job so that is moving ahead. He asked what I wanted from a performance standpoint, I told him just a basic freshening would be fine. I don't have any cams/springs etc to really maximize a proper port job, and I'm trying to stop spending money on this one.
Just got a call from the shop, they said it could use a valve job so that is moving ahead. He asked what I wanted from a performance standpoint, I told him just a basic freshening would be fine. I don't have any cams/springs etc to really maximize a proper port job, and I'm trying to stop spending money on this one.
I haven't really done any definitive research on that. I know there are some more aggressive cams available, but they are big money (for my purposes anyway). The most I may do is get a MSM intake cam. The wife has already asked more than once if I could put "the old parts" back on so she can drive the car, I just want it to be reliable so I can enjoy it while home. She can drive her mistake if she wants a convertible. And if any of you tell her that I will bury your body deep in the desert...
Yes, I'm sure there are.
Cylinder head is installed and torqued. Couple of times I thought I was going to break those ARP studs! Did a lot more associated with the head, more info and pictures as below:
Here's my new reroute spacer, had some trouble getting the upper nut tight due to lack of clearance as machined.
What I did today (besides the obvious) was to measure the thickness of all valve shims, assemble the cams to the head and check valve clearance. That then allowed me to determine what shims I would need to correct lash. I ended up needing four, unfortunately I made it to the dealer a little too late for their ordering so I won't get the new shims until Monday. I had 10 clearances that were out, a couple were very tight. Cleaned up the block seating surface as well as the pistons. I couldn't find a large sanding block anywhere in town so I bought some belt sander refills and cut a piece of 1 X 4 board to allow me to use that as a sanding block. It worked pretty well.
Here's my new reroute spacer, had some trouble getting the upper nut tight due to lack of clearance as machined.
What I did today (besides the obvious) was to measure the thickness of all valve shims, assemble the cams to the head and check valve clearance. That then allowed me to determine what shims I would need to correct lash. I ended up needing four, unfortunately I made it to the dealer a little too late for their ordering so I won't get the new shims until Monday. I had 10 clearances that were out, a couple were very tight. Cleaned up the block seating surface as well as the pistons. I couldn't find a large sanding block anywhere in town so I bought some belt sander refills and cut a piece of 1 X 4 board to allow me to use that as a sanding block. It worked pretty well.
this one page has more pics from chief than i've ever seen combined lol
And, ordered a new neutral switch so that should be here and installed this coming week.
and i don't remember if i posted or not, but had the I.L. motorsports motor mounts in stalled as well as clutch master and slave, "new" driveshaft installed and brakes bled
And, ordered a new neutral switch so that should be here and installed this coming week.
and i don't remember if i posted or not, but had the I.L. motorsports motor mounts in stalled as well as clutch master and slave, "new" driveshaft installed and brakes bled
not sure if they're new style, i bought em new over a year ago, just never got around to installing them
Impressions so far are that they're perfect. Minimal vibes felt, no rattles even with A/C on at idle.
unlike the P5 with the AWR mounts, this feels almost OEM just a little firmer
Impressions so far are that they're perfect. Minimal vibes felt, no rattles even with A/C on at idle.
unlike the P5 with the AWR mounts, this feels almost OEM just a little firmer
Hey Laurel and Hardy, where were you a page or two ago when I was laughing about someone asking me for pictures? I'm trying to reinvent myself, you know, like Madonna does.
Got the intake side buttoned up. Modified the M-Tuned fuel rail so that I can get the valve cover on and off easier, this consisted of beveling three areas where the bolts pass through. Used new insulators for the injectors where they go into the head. Ground down the thermostat to fit the new spacer and finished making the gasket needed so that is all closed up. Cleaned up and painted the JR header. I think I got all the peanuts blown out of the inside, I'm going to run my fish tape through it before bolting it up just to make sure. Just to continue blowing people's minds, I'll post some pictures here in a bit.
