What have you done to your Miata today?

Andy's procedure is basically what I was using to help my old FSAE team setup their new car with the R25Bs. We used a figure-8 skid pad per FSAE skid pad event specs. I like it a little better than a standard O skid pad, you can help make sure that the car is even in left vs right and you aren't totally screwing up the transient response without stopping and doing another drill.

I like that idea.
 
Ah, I wasn't assuming that even across the tread was best. 949 suggests looking for 5-10deg increases in temperature from outside to middle to inside, and that sort of temperature gradient is what I shot for when setting up the R25Bs.

http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-pyrometer-949-racing.aspx

Much smartness to be had in that write-up.

Yep, that's exactly how it works for Radials. I'm not saying it won't for bias plys, just that they don't react the same way to chances, and require vastly different setup changes to radials.
 
James, what school's FSAE team were you part of? And what is your engineering discipline?
 
Yep, that's exactly how it works for Radials. I'm not saying it won't for bias plys, just that they don't react the same way to chances, and require vastly different setup changes to radials.

Oh, most certainly. Getting real camber curves and other tire data was key to making a good FSAE suspension because bias ply construction varies quite widely. And like you say, toss the book out the window if lap times go down :)

James, what school's FSAE team were you part of? And what is your engineering discipline?

I helped found Cooper Motorsports at The Cooper Union in 2006/2007 and was a designer, welder, and driver on the team (among other things) until I graduated in 2009. I'm a mechanical engineer.

http://fsae.cooper.edu/
 
Wheels/tires picked up and installed, they look great. Seats and gas lid also showed up today, I'm going to try fitting one of the seats later if the humidity drops.
 
You guys have no idea who you are talking to. I'll let Phen or someone who does chime in here...

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I'm not a fan of the shape of those wheels (haters gonna hate), but I love that color combo :D
 
I'm not a fan of the shape of those wheels (haters gonna hate), but I love that color combo :D

I wasn't a big fan the first time I saw them, but they have grown on me. And I too love the colors.

Put the driver's seat in position to see how things were going to work. It fits! Some interference with the seat belt tower but I think I can work around it. Need some flat bar to make some cross mounts to attach the seat to the Corbeau sliders, and to receive the used factory mounts I bought in order to cut off the seat belt receiver bracket and weld it onto the Corbeaus.

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Head is off the car (again) and stripped as far as I can. Valves are still in place, the spring compressor I had for motorcycles just didn't have enough room for me to get the keepers out. I could have possibly finagled a way to remove them, but assembly would be impossible so I'll let the shop do that. Calling them in the morning to find out how soon they can get to it.
 
Clutch is in as of yesterday afternoon. If the weather holds it'll be making a spin around my dead-end street to get the clutch bedded in. As a bike guy, I always chuckled at the "omg dude it totally revs like a sportsbike!" guys but... yeah, that's not hype. It's nuts. I stalled it already once just working to get the pedal throw set (it needs about 1" or so less throw to disengage than a stock-like clutch). It's heavier (not super heavy, but heavier) than stock, and the pedal travel is all sorts of different, so it'll take a little getting used to. Also figuring out how to launch it should be... interesting.
 
I was bored at work yesterday so given she was clean (for a change), I snapped a pic. Also, went autoxing today. Man that was fun, I love the Star Specs.

 
Here you go Chief:


It's actually pretty modulate-able (I just made that up...), it's just got a much shorter throw than stock, so it's also really easy to stall the damn thing. The solution, obviously, is more revs. Now that it's bedded in some (took it for a short drive on my dead-end street) it's gotten a little more manageable as well. Getting it onto the trailer will take some work, I imagine.
 
Not sure how I missed that post, but I saw it going back and looking for something else: so does your COP setup. I like it a lot :)

Thanks! I appreciate that.

I just made one last tweak to it by installing this guy:

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Turns out a little capacitor goes a long way with COPs. My car idles better than ever, especially when cold, revs more smoothly than ever, and power delivery is so much smoother I almost thought it was slower! It felt so smooth I didn't realize how fast I was going. (Phrasing?)

Would highly recommend the COP mod to any Miata owner. I had a few hiccoughs with my install, but I am by far and away in the minority on that. Especially if you have an ECU where you can adjust dwell, the COP conversion is tits.

Parts and materials are around $100, labor isn't bad, it eliminates plug wires (at $80/set the COP conversion pays for itself quite quickly), and the car will idle and drive better.
 
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