What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

[Silentnoise713]

Read your previous post before the edit. There was no wiring harness attached, and I didn't see any dangling around. Additionally, the connector on this unit has road grit in it, so I don't think it was ever connected to anything. This diagram shows a low-level switch in a different location on the reservoir.

Maybe this would have been some sort of relay? The side opposite the connection point, with the two round circles, looks like a terminal end, though. The circles are two soft rubber caps.

No engine codes or warning lights yet. Hope it stays that way. I'll be happy if this is some vestigial part.

Are you saying you DON'T have the wiring harness connected to the cap and that you ONLY have the cap??

Nice find on the diagram! This confirms there is an optional sensor avail. The jump test may be valid after all. Be fun to see a new light pop up

76673
SWITCH, LEVEL
F.WASHER TANK-LARGE. Required: 001.
$33.47

 

[microvan]

Are you saying you DON'T have the wiring harness connected to the cap and that you ONLY have the cap??

Not sure how I missed your link, Silent. Doh!

Only the cap, no wiring harness. So they saved money by eliminating the switch on the Gen. 1's, then saved even more money by eliminating the wiring on the Gen 2's?

Apparently the Canadian market Gen. 2 offers the low-level switch option: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...the-windshield-washer-fluid-reservoir-(2012-)

 

[Silentnoise713]

Not sure how I missed your link, Silent. Doh!

Only the cap, no wiring harness. So they saved money by eliminating the switch on the Gen. 1's, then saved even more money by eliminating the wiring on the Gen 2's?

Apparently the Canadian market Gen. 2 offers the low-level switch option: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...the-windshield-washer-fluid-reservoir-(2012-)

That's interesting. It also looks like they also cut cost in the 2nd gens by consolidating to 1 wash pump feeding both front/rear (I don't see the 2nd pump in the pics or parts diagram)... The 1st gens have two individual pumps, front and rear (unique parts due to connector fitting, otherwise the same thing). Insignificant difference.

 

[torquelover]

If I have my bumper off again (planning for summer –if I remember too), I'd test it out. Then again, I really don't need or want a low washer fluid warning light..

I wouldn't mind one. The car had been topped off a few weeks ago, but with snowmageddon '14 she emptied the tank 300 miles away driving home in a blizzard. Would be nice to get a warning, as you can't see the tank from the hood opening. Last minivan had a 2.5 gallon capacity, this one is just under a gallon.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Both sliding doors froze on me last night –as in I could not open them. If I pulled any harder the plastic handles felt like they would break off. Fronts opened with just a little force/tug. There must have been a good amount of moisture build-up on the door weather seals to metal frame for it to freeze like that. I have never experienced anything like this before on previous cars but this is my first sliding door. Anyone else experience this? I guess you have to do “maintenance” on the seals? Is it b/c it is a larger surface area? Once it gets warmer, it’s time to wipe it down and give a silicon lub spray.

 

[twintrbo]

Its because there is little leverage pulling the door away from the seal When you pull the handle. Some silicone spray would help. The best thing I have found to do is roll down the window and pull out on the frame at the back of the Door. Some gentle tugging releases it, you don't want to rip the weather stripping off.

 

[Orangutan]

Yep. I broke a handle on mine in the first year of ownership in just that situation. I use some nice Teflon silicone lubricant several times a year on freshly cleaned rubber seals. It makes a significant difference. They've frozen shut a time or two since I've started doing that, and I usually just get in through the front and push/pull from the interior to open them. Even when they stick they're much less frozen than before I started applying the lubricant. And I haven't had a chance to apply the silicone in some time, so it makes sense that it has happened recently a couple times.

 

[markuszoom5]

Both sliding doors froze on me last night –as in I could not open them. If I pulled any harder the plastic handles felt like they would break off. Fronts opened with just a little force/tug. There must have been a good amount of moisture build-up on the door weather seals to metal frame for it to freeze like that. I have never experienced anything like this before on previous cars but this is my first sliding door. Anyone else experience this? I guess you have to do “maintenance” on the seals? Is it b/c it is a larger surface area? Once it gets warmer, it’s time to wipe it down and give a silicon lub spray.

Welcome to the club, I have known about this for the past few years and ignored it. It got worse this year because temps are colder, and the door would not close. Dropped it off at dealer to have it repaired under warranty (extended). I can't deal with it anymore, currently driving a mazda 6 2013, which i don't like.

 

[chad99]

Installed new speakers in the stock locations, decided to unplug the keyless factory unit ( next to left rear speaker) since I no longer use the factory keyfob, buttoned everything back up then realized the keyless unit also does the tire pressure monitoring. Need to plug that back in tomorrow and finish up wiring for 2nd row seat heaters.

 

[MarkVII88]

What replacement speakers did you end up going with? Where did you get them and how much did they cost you? Did you replace the stock head unit and/or do you plan to? Have you noticed any major improvements in the sound, even with stock head unit?

 

[Orangutan]

Got the oil changed and tires rotated at the dealership.

 

[chad99]

What replacement speakers did you end up going with? Where did you get them and how much did they cost you? Did you replace the stock head unit and/or do you plan to? Have you noticed any major improvements in the sound, even with stock head unit?

Went with infinity kappas, I had amazon gift cards, I think it was $70ish each pair.
It sounds slightly better but they haven't broken in yet, vocals are better for sure.
I will be upgrading the deck soon just need to decide which one to get, looking at something android based.

 

[fernando8877]

Bought some new lowering springs, Megans and other suspension parts. They work and can't really argue for $145 shipped. Now I just need to fix that oil leak by the oil filter housing and oil cooler. Mazda wants me to pay $440 for a new oil cooler, just to get a newer version of something that isn't broken.

 

[MR6]

Today i had the rare pleasure of removing the front coilovers i had installed just a few weeks ago. They had developed a loud rattle/clunk. Turned out the camber plates were loose and the preload collars on the passenger side worked themselves loose as well. So i took apart and reassembled both of them. While it's 98% better i still get a mild rattle over certain kinds of bumps. It's gonna drive me crazy but i've tightened it as much as i can...Hopefully the race shop i'm having corner balance and align the van will have tricks of the trade to deal with troublesome camber plates

 

[MR6]

finally on the alignment rack!

 

[Silentnoise713]

Today i had the rare pleasure of removing the front coilovers i had installed just a few weeks ago. They had developed a loud rattle/clunk. Turned out the camber plates were loose and the preload collars on the passenger side worked themselves loose as well. So i took apart and reassembled both of them. While it's 98% better i still get a mild rattle over certain kinds of bumps. It's gonna drive me crazy but i've tightened it as much as i can...Hopefully the race shop i'm having corner balance and align the van will have tricks of the trade to deal with troublesome camber plates

Phunky never mention issues with rattle/cluck but seems both of you have issues with the collars coming loose - not good. Hope it all works out to be something minor or overlooked when BC pre-assembled the thing. Btw, do you still have the setup apart? Care to take some measurement for future reference? I plan to disassemble the YS fronts too to get some numbers. I'm interested in the spring dimensions specs and shaft travel to use as reference. The fronts were going to be part two of my coilover thread, which I have not touched

Question: the YS use a pillow ball upper mount on the plate. Do these BCs use a pillow ball?

 

[sac02]

finally on the alignment rack!

Are you getting it aligned for the first time since lowering? If so, I'd really like to know what your "before" numbers were when they first pulled it onto the rack.

Phunky never mention issues with rattle/cluck but seems both of you have issues with the collars coming loose - not good. Hope it all works out to be something minor or overlooked when BC pre-assembled the thing.

yeah, I noticed that also. No bueno.

IIRC Phunky's BCs came loose at the ride height adjustment nut where the shock threads into the strut tube, but it looks like MR6's came loose at the spring perch (what MR6 referred to as the preload collar)? Correct me if I interpreted MR6 wrong.

Since both of those are meant to be loosened and adjusted by the end user, I don't know if BC's assembly there is to blame. I'd say it's more likely something with their material selection, or design and/or machining tolerances/stackup, or torque specs (if they supply any?). But it does seem to be a worrisome trend, phunky's was a definite safety concern.

 

[j3nsmz5]

Battery light came on then soon after, warning lights came on, no power steering, then car died. Replaced alternator and now all's well.

 

[MR6]

Phunky never mention issues with rattle/cluck but seems both of you have issues with the collars coming loose - not good. Hope it all works out to be something minor or overlooked when BC pre-assembled the thing.

Question: the YS use a pillow ball upper mount on the plate. Do these BCs use a pillow ball?

I'm hoping its a preassembly thing as well. The passenger side seems to have quieted down, but the driver side is now making noise. Of course it starts up after the alignment so i can't pull it off. But i think i can get away with spinning the preload collars till the spring is loose and then crank down the camber plate...again. i have to remove the noisy rear shocks too. Hopefully its just loose mounts as well. Its like BC loosely cobbled the things together and threw them in a box. Always retighten preassembled coilovers. Lesson learned.

And yes, it's a pillow ball mount.

Are you getting it aligned for the first time since lowering? If so, I'd really like to know what your "before" numbers were when they first pulled it onto the rack.

yeah, I noticed that also. No bueno.

IIRC Phunky's BCs came loose at the ride height adjustment nut where the shock threads into the strut tube, but it looks like MR6's came loose at the spring perch (what MR6 referred to as the preload collar)? Correct me if I interpreted MR6 wrong.

Since both of those are meant to be loosened and adjusted by the end user, I don't know if BC's assembly there is to blame. I'd say it's more likely something with their material selection, or design and/or machining tolerances/stackup, or torque specs (if they supply any?). But it does seem to be a worrisome trend, phunky's was a definite safety concern.

No before numbers on the alignment. I do have before numbers on the corner balancing if interested. And yes it was the preload collars that loosened up on me. The height adjuster i thread locked and hasn't been an issue. The preload locking collars will get a squirt as well. I'm gonna thread lock every goddam nut and collar on these things. I've NEVER had a set of COs act this way but hey, for $1k can i really complain.

On a positive note,they do feel AMAZING on the highway so once i work through these gremlins i should be pretty happy.

 

[sac02]

No before numbers on the alignment. I do have before numbers on the corner balancing if interested. And yes it was the preload collars that loosened up on me. The height adjuster i thread locked and hasn't been an issue. The preload locking collars will get a squirt as well. I'm gonna thread lock every goddam nut and collar on these things. I've NEVER had a set of COs act this way but hey, for $1k can i really complain.

Interested in corner weights. (thumb)

I forgot you mentioned looseness at the strut mount (camber plate) also - yeah, that could definitely be a BC assembly issue. Though it could still be a design issue. The semantics game I seem to be playing is that if the torque spec that the BC Engineering group gives to the Production group is wrong, that's a design issue. If the torque value is correct and the Production group isn't hitting that number, then it's an assembly issue. It winds up as the same defect in the eyes of the customer, but to the QC engineer (me) it's a distinct difference. (shrug)

For you or me, we can deal with these issues, but I'd be concerned about other, less technically-inclined people (are we still using the term "ricers"?) putting these on their car and sharing the road with me in a potentially unsafe condition.