What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Well - this may not be the first posted photos of the ATF dipstic -which is orange on my 23 NA ....3 pics , going , going ...gone ( back up pics
 

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If you have the 2.5T, your front brakes are bigger. If you have a flat in the front, you'll need to replace the rear with the spare and move the rear to the front.

You'll need to cross rotate the rear with the temp first.

Yes I have a Signature.... I've only had it for a month or so and thought maybe I had a wrong spare. I didn't even think about what you suggested. Makes sense, THANK YOU!
 
If you have the 2.5T, your front brakes are bigger. If you have a flat in the front, you'll need to replace the rear with the spare and move the rear to the front.

You'll need to cross rotate the rear with the temp first.
last question I know torque say 80-108..... my Ridgeline is 94. Should I do that since that's halfway between 80-108. Thoughts????
 
last question I know torque say 80-108..... my Ridgeline is 94. Should I do that since that's halfway between 80-108. Thoughts????
Mine is NA - same torque margin - I go 92~94 -but I have no excessive loads - if that plays into it
 
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Historically checking the ATF requires the engine be at operating temp ( my old 3 says drive it then stop , idle check ) and at idle - so its a hand burner , if i pull the airbox off -will the rpm change - or are u getting an accurate read with the airbox off ?
No you won't burn your hand, and yes it's fine to check it with the bottom of the airbox off.
 
No you won't burn your hand, and yes it's fine to check it with the bottom of the airbox off.
Cx5 is a totally new beast to me - not like any other Maz I own or have owned. Once these little things get memorized the confidence level will increase- its mainly locations , bolt sized , fluid levels - and I got the most unbelievable reccomendation from Conrad 16.5 on how to rotate the tires without anything but a jack and using the spare -its in - how to rotate your tires without using a 4 point jack -genius stuff - yu know
 
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I installed a megan racing strut tower bar. took it for a short drive and i want to say that side to side transitions feel better, maybe a little bit of confirmation bias(?). a solid bar would have been preferable but this was cheap and in stock.

I installed this Megan Racing strut tower brace bar as well over the weekend and can confirm the front feels stiffer and more rigid and less body roll when going into turns above 40+mph, definitely improved handling up front, less dipping when going into turn...... super easy install... see pictures for tools needed.... strut is $94 on eBay. there is also a youtube video, Megan Racing strut bar install on 2016 Mazda CX-5 but the poster didn;t re-use the OEM nuts or use a torque wrench to tighten, I recommend re-suing the original OEM strut flange nuts and definitely use a torque wrench to tighten to spec...
 

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All done… taking out the bumper was not as bad as I thought.

Here’s a couple of pics of the work for those of you planning to do this.

I notched a small opening here so the wire does not get pinched.

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I typically use posi-taps but I didn’t have any laying around so instead is used these.

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I have these laying around, got them from Amazon. It’s the best way of securing the wires.

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Here’s a pic of it installed

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And since I had the bumper off, I installed this. It helps keep the bugs out in there.

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Here’s a video of the startup (using the Linkr LTE)


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Updated...

I love the light but wasn't a fan of the DRL portion not working during the day. Plus it was a little roo bright at night so I made a change and added a relay.

Orange wire (parking light) goes to 86 (relay). Then use a fuse tap on 23 (from the engine bay fuse box) to go to 30 (relay) then the positive of the DRL to 87A (relay). The DRL comes ON when the engine in running, then it turns OFF when the parking lights (Auto) comes ON. This does not affect the turn signal portion.
 

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Updated...

I love the light but wasn't a fan of the DRL portion not working during the day. Plus it was a little roo bright at night so I made a change and added a relay.

Orange wire (parking light) goes to 86 (relay). Then use a fuse tap on 23 (from the engine bay fuse box) to go to 30 (relay) then the positive of the DRL to 87A (relay). The DRL comes ON when the engine in running, then it turns OFF when the parking lights (Auto) comes ON. This does not affect the turn signal portion.
This is one of my main complaints with the KF CX-5. The fact that the DRL is the low-beam, regardless of which headlight assembly. I wonder if it's using a lower current in DRL mode?

My guess the reason for this DRL arrangement has to lie in the rules buried in the FMVSS 108
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This is one of my main complaints with the KF CX-5. The fact that the DRL is the low-beam, regardless of which headlight assembly. I wonder if it's using a lower current in DRL mode?

My guess the reason for this DRL arrangement has to lie in the rules buried in the FMVSS 108
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YES (I believe) on the dimmed low beam as DRL.

IMO these were too bright at night that you couldn't even tell when the fogs ON, beats the purpose of having the fogs (You can see it in the video I posted). Plus, didn't want to risk having too many lights ON at the front at night because some States DMV only allows a number of illuminated lighs.
 
YES (I believe) on the dimmed low beam as DRL.

IMO these were too bright at night that you couldn't even tell when the fogs ON, beats the purpose of having the fogs (You can see it in the video I posted). Plus, didn't want to risk having too many lights ON at the front at night because some States DMV only allows a number of illuminated lighs.
I believe that in the current 2024 model year ..DRLs are an upgraded option which begins at the Premium then up from there .( This includes the CE )
 
Swapped out the Corksport rear sway bar for the stocker. Never planned on doing that as it's a PITA requiring dropping the rear subframe, but the bushing brackets both broke (not at the same time) and I decided I didn't need the extra handling over not worrying about another breakage. Also did the brakes all around, went with coated Powerstop rotors with ceramic pads. Have to bed them in tomorrow, that's gonna be a pain as they ask for 30 cycles from 30-5 mph with 30 seconds in between applications.
 
Got the brakes bedded in, stopping is really good. Interested to see how the new caliper pin lube I'm using (CRC Silaramic) works at keeping things operating as they should and maintaining the performance.

Was looking at things since it appeared there was not much if any clearance between the sway bar end links and the subframe. Turns out I had them in backwards. I am used to installing them from the inside (nuts attaching on the outside) but on this vehicle Mazda has them with the nuts on the inside. Had a small amount of rubbing but a little Rustoleum took care of covering the evidence.

Going to set up for an alignment next week. Curious to see how much it will be off.
 
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After nearly 7 years the wipers finally gave out and needed to be replaced. The car is always garaged and I live in California, so the wipers lasted longer then they would in most places. Anyway, I was happy with the OEM blades because they always worked great and lasted so long, so I decide to just replace the inserts (plus less wasteful and saves me money).

Anyway, I go to my dealer to buy some OEM blade rubber inserts yesterday. The parts guy says they've never carried just the rubber inserts in stock and will have to order them. This seems odd to me, but whatever, they'll be in today. Just went down and picked them up, and the parts guy cannot let it go that I actually ordered them. He's like "in 2 years we've never sold just the rubber". I'm like "Ok, well you have now" and "it's the only part that actually needs to be replaced." So, he's looking at me like I'm some sort of alien for ordering the inserts instead of getting all new blades, and I'm starting to wonder if I've just made a big mistake and for some reason this won't be as simple a job to do as I had thought (it's my first time just replacing inserts).

Well, I had nothing to fear, it took 5 minutes and all three wiper rubbers are replaced. Super easy and they're working great. I guess trying to not be wasteful is really is an oddball thing to try and do these days!
 
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After nearly 7 years the wipers finally gave out and needed to be replaced. The car is always garaged and I live in California, so the wipers lasted longer then they would in most places. Anyway, I was happy with the OEM blades because they always worked great and lasted so long, so I decide to just replace the inserts (plus less wasteful and saves me money).

Anyway, I go to my dealer to buy some OEM blade rubber inserts yesterday. The parts guy says they've never carried just the rubber inserts in stock and will have to order them. This seems odd to me, but whatever, they'll be in today. Just went down and picked them up, and the parts guy cannot let it go that I actually ordered them. He's like "in 2 years we've never sold just the rubber". I'm like "Ok, well you have now" and "it's the only part that actually needs to be replaced." So, he's looking at me like I'm some sort of alien for ordering the inserts instead of getting all new blades, and I'm starting to wonder if I've just made a bit mistake and for some reason this won't be as simple a job to do as I had thought (it's my first time just replacing inserts).

Well, I had nothing to fear, it took 5 minutes and all three wiper rubbers are replaced. Super easy and they're working great. I guess trying to not be wasteful is really is an oddball thing to try and do these days!

The parts guy is probably just annoyed that he couldn't squeeze more money out of you. Lol
 
After nearly 7 years the wipers finally gave out and needed to be replaced. The car is always garaged and I live in California, so the wipers lasted longer then they would in most places. Anyway, I was happy with the OEM blades because they always worked great and lasted so long, so I decide to just replace the inserts (plus less wasteful and saves me money).

Anyway, I go to my dealer to buy some OEM blade rubber inserts yesterday. The parts guy says they've never carried just the rubber inserts in stock and will have to order them. This seems odd to me, but whatever, they'll be in today. Just went down and picked them up, and the parts guy cannot let it go that I actually ordered them. He's like "in 2 years we've never sold just the rubber". I'm like "Ok, well you have now" and "it's the only part that actually needs to be replaced." So, he's looking at me like I'm some sort of alien for ordering the inserts instead of getting all new blades, and I'm starting to wonder if I've just made a big mistake and for some reason this won't be as simple a job to do as I had thought (it's my first time just replacing inserts).

Well, I had nothing to fear, it took 5 minutes and all three wiper rubbers are replaced. Super easy and they're working great. I guess trying to not be wasteful is really is an oddball thing to try and do these days!
quite the opposite ...I suspect based on our dialogues in here ---people are doing whatever they can to save money these days ---everything has gone up in price , so we get industrious and start doing it ourselves - Yeah the wiper blade profit margin is likely higher than coffee shop coffee or pizzas !- Glad you listened to the voice of conscience --yours ! Good Job -

Another factor ( depending on the year and model ) is the OE frames on some blades are one off assembly line stuff -- On my 2010-3 they are beautiful metal framed blades -- and thanks to G I didnt pitch them out for the disposable plastic hybrids
 
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After nearly 7 years the wipers finally gave out and needed to be replaced. The car is always garaged and I live in California, so the wipers lasted longer then they would in most places. Anyway, I was happy with the OEM blades because they always worked great and lasted so long, so I decide to just replace the inserts (plus less wasteful and saves me money).

Anyway, I go to my dealer to buy some OEM blade rubber inserts yesterday. The parts guy says they've never carried just the rubber inserts in stock and will have to order them. This seems odd to me, but whatever, they'll be in today. Just went down and picked them up, and the parts guy cannot let it go that I actually ordered them. He's like "in 2 years we've never sold just the rubber". I'm like "Ok, well you have now" and "it's the only part that actually needs to be replaced." So, he's looking at me like I'm some sort of alien for ordering the inserts instead of getting all new blades, and I'm starting to wonder if I've just made a big mistake and for some reason this won't be as simple a job to do as I had thought (it's my first time just replacing inserts).

Well, I had nothing to fear, it took 5 minutes and all three wiper rubbers are replaced. Super easy and they're working great. I guess trying to not be wasteful is really is an oddball thing to try and do these days!

Part numbers please?
 
Part numbers please?

My post on 11/14/2021 and this’s for Gen-1 CX-5:

Almost everything has gone up significantly nowadays. These are the MSRP comparison for OEM wiper refills on my 2016 gen-1 CX-5:

My purchase in Nov., 2020:

GS1D-67-333 - $8.33 MSRP (Front driver side)
KD53-67-333 - $8.16 MSRP (Front passenger side)
G22E-67-333 - $8.10 MSRP (Rear)

Now:

GS1D-67-333 - $10.74 MSRP (Front driver side)
KD53-67-333 - $8.56 MSRP (Front passenger side)
G22E-67-333 - $12.05 MSRP (Rear)

Today, 12/22/21, ordered on Amazon. This will be my second set of refills since new (August 2013). For me, they last forever and work perfectly fine in winter (and I'm in Minnesota)!

GS1D-67-333 - $9.99 (Front driver side)
KD53-67-333 - $9.84 (Front passenger side)
G22E-67-333 - $10.29 (Rear)
 

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