Weight reduction, the way to go???

AZDriftR said:
if u took of or replaced flywheel, wheels, clutch, interior(seats/dash/carpet), body kit/spoiler, fog lights,air box, strip trunk/hatch, hood, struts/springs, lighter pulleys, lighter steering wheel (illegal if u tamper with AB)all speakers, remove steel support frames behind front and rear bumper, lighter exhaust, etc...your car would be really light but will still have no power, plus u would have just F-ked up what the car was meant to do and thats to handle

lighter cars handle better dude! less inertia means its easier to change direction :D
 
toucci said:
lighter cars handle better dude! less inertia means its easier to change direction :D

they handle better but not when the weight isnt evenly destributed, if it turns out that he pulled more weight out of the front then rear or visa versa and one is too light that can greatly affect his handling in a bad way. he should try to get his car as close to 50/50 as possible, not just try and gut his car
 
Where did you get these numbers: 100lbs = 0.1 sec??

If your car weighed 1000lbs less that would be approx. 1700+lbs... putting your power to weight ratio at better than the first gen. Lotus Elise! I expect that you would improve your 1/4 mile time by more than 1 second.

If you want lighter wheels, check out Weld Wheels, and their Racelite R/S... 17" forged wheel at 11lbs.
 
KYMP5 said:
centerline makes some 11.5pd 17"s

Maybe its just me, but 17" seems kinda big. Could also be counter-productive as a larger diameter wheel is harder to turn no?
 
alexlitov said:
Try going on a diet first :)

I dink i mentioned on a replay to someone, that i've been on a diet, and losing anymore weight would make me weaker than I'd like to be.
 
Maybe its just me, but 17" seems kinda big. Could also be counter-productive as a larger diameter wheel is harder to turn no?
IF you go with a low profile tire you keep the outer diameter the same as factory (or within about .5" of it.) and thus have the same hieght at half the weight
 
IchBinEinMP5 said:
Where did you get these numbers: 100lbs = 0.1 sec??

If your car weighed 1000lbs less that would be approx. 1700+lbs... putting your power to weight ratio at better than the first gen. Lotus Elise! I expect that you would improve your 1/4 mile time by more than 1 second.

If you want lighter wheels, check out Weld Wheels, and their Racelite R/S... 17" forged wheel at 11lbs.

Actually to tell the truth, my friend's dad gave me those numbers. He drives a GNX, and he says those are the weight reduction gains for his car. I think someone already gave me a link somewhere in this discussion that gives better ratio's than what I gave in my original post.
 
Anyone remember a Sport Compact Car magazine issue where they did some "weight reduction" to a nissan? well you could do something like that.

they removed everything, seats, hood, doors, trunk....pretty much stripped the car. There's your weight reduction for ya :D
 
That was a funny article. If you wanna go faster at the track don't go with 17's, thats more wheel to turn. When I mentioned removing the spare it was for when you go to the track. Also the VIS cf hood on my civic weighs 9lbs and the factory is like 19lbs. The big differance with this hood is not just the weight but that it has vents in the hood to pull heat out of the engine. This is what you really bennifit from when putting a cf hood on your car. The air flows through the front of the car, across the motor and out through the large vents in the hood. This also pushes the car down as it moves while decreasing the heat of the engine. Heat is a large robber of hp. There are no large power gains your gonna get from any one mod. Thats why these cars get the nickname tuners. You can't just bolt one mod on and go thats 10 hp and that ones 15 so I just gained 25. It doesn't work like that. You may only gain 20 or 18. So what I'm saying is you have to do a lotta little mod gains to equal any real big power gain. and sometimes tune the car to reach its max potential gain.
 
If you're REALLY serious about saving weight for racing exclusive purposes, change all the windows out for Lexan
 
Yeah, I mentioned that..... the rear window alone is probably alot of weight in itself.
 
you wanna get rid of a lot of weight? take off your rear hatch.. that f*ckin thing weighs like 100lbs!!!!!!1 try lifting it without shocks
 
323CiP5 said:
Anyone remember a Sport Compact Car magazine issue where they did some "weight reduction" to a nissan? well you could do something like that.

they removed everything, seats, hood, doors, trunk....pretty much stripped the car. There's your weight reduction for ya :D

actually a friend of mine just picked up an old school nissan se-r and stripped it. he was actually posting really good numbers at the track or so I heard. Anyway, one time he left if in the drive way instead of the garage, and in the morning there was a pool where the spare tire is supposed to be. The problems created tho funny when told as a story, aren't really all that funny if it were your daily driver, which it wasn't, but its entertaining.
 
ITs a special plastic like your headlights, its what the racers use on their cars. It doesn't scratch like you think, not anymore than glass does already.
 
loccusst said:
ITs a special plastic like your headlights, its what the racers use on their cars. It doesn't scratch like you think, not anymore than glass does already.

I see, but it still means goodbye to powered windows yes?
 
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