water temp gauge sensor placing.

[nonameheroes]

i think that might be the 1.8 or even 1.6 motor cause looking at my motor, my stock sensor looks way different then that one.

 

[Brian MP5T]

I don't know why this Temp Thing is an issue. If you are that paranoid, just pull out the thermostat.

 

[TurfBurn]

I don't know why this Temp Thing is an issue. If you are that paranoid, just pull out the thermostat.

That's a bad idea. I had looked into that as I too thought it would be a great way to lower temps. Turns out however, that the restriction that the thermostat provides is apparently very important in keeping the fluid pressure higher in the block. If you remove the thermostat you need to put in a properly sized restrictor plate instead. Which is something I may end up doing myself.

I'll see if I can find and post the articles regarding that sometime soonish.

I can't find the article I'm looking for but you can find plenty of places that indicate one of two other "issues" with no thermostat... 1) coolant cycling can be too quick which will result in not enough heat dissipation through the radiator (not enough time exposed to the cooling affects of the radiator). There is both good and bad to that concept... I don't completely buy it, but at the same time there is a least a grain of reason to it.
2) running the motor too cool can result in extra wear and tear on some parts.

 

[mazpro]

I don't know why this Temp Thing is an issue......

this is an issue for me, because I broke my stock gauge and I felt the car was overheating on my trip to orlando. now that I am going to North Carolina, I need to make sure the car works fine.

everything is done and working. I will post pics of everything when I am done waxing the car. the Teflon tape worked just fine.

 

[FL_PR5]

glad to hear mazpro. i'll hook mine up tomorrow with my a/f gauge and post pics as well.

cutting me deep brian with these comments (no)

 

[Brian MP5T]

That's a bad idea. 1) coolant cycling can be too quick which will result in not enough heat dissipation through the radiator (not enough time exposed to the cooling affects of the radiator). There is both good and bad to that concept... I don't completely buy it, but at the same time there is a least a grain of reason to it.
2) running the motor too cool can result in extra wear and tear on some parts.

I agree with the coolant speed (Dwell Time) with a stock radiator, however on a triple pass such as mine, it's probably not an issue. For Summer here I remove the thermostat and have installed two 90 deg brass taps one to the heater core line and one to the return line (Metal in front of block). Basically, it forces all the coolant to pass the rad every time. It varies with ambient temperature but needless to say it has never gone higher than two dashes less than normal (9 O'Clock) even stopped in traffic.

If it's colder, I open one tap to the heater core and if it's colder still, I open the bypass. In the fall I install the thermostat and keep both open.

Seems complicated but I'm sure the added cooling helps keep the oil together in the long run.

Believe me, I am not suggesting this to anyone. It makes sense to me so I continue with it.

 

[TurfBurn]

I agree with the coolant speed (Dwell Time) with a stock radiator, however on a triple pass such as mine, it's probably not an issue. For Summer here I remove the thermostat and have installed two 90 deg brass taps one to the heater core line and one to the return line (Metal in front of block). Basically, it forces all the coolant to pass the rad every time. It varies with ambient temperature but needless to say it has never gone higher than two dashes less than normal (9 O'Clock) even stopped in traffic.

If it's colder, I open one tap to the heater core and if it's colder still, I open the bypass. In the fall I install the thermostat and keep both open.

Seems complicated but I'm sure the added cooling helps keep the oil together in the long run.

Believe me, I am not suggesting this to anyone. It makes sense to me so I continue with it.

The way you have set it up is super cool and I'll have to keep it in mind. i thought you were recommending for the average joe with the stocker to just pop out the thermostat and call it good... But I see where you are coming from and are spot on as usual.

 

[Brian MP5T]

The way you have set it up is super cool and I'll have to keep it in mind. i thought you were recommending for the average joe with the stocker to just pop out the thermostat and call it good... But I see where you are coming from and are spot on as usual.

For Auto-X where the car is WOT all the time, It's not about if but when the cooling system will start to fail and fall short. The car is rarely going "Rad Cooling Speeds" and in that case the fan is not capable, this mod is perfect.

 

[TurfBurn]

For Auto-X where the car is WOT all the time, It's not about if but when the cooling system will start to fail and fall short. The car is rarely going "Rad Cooling Speeds" and in that case the fan is not capable, this mod is perfect.

I've found that with a bone stock cooling system, simply wiring both the AC and the radiator fans to be on all the time keeps the temps perfectly in check the entire time even on 90+ degree days... after 3 hard runs I had to pop the hood to let some heat out, but up until then, never shutting the car off etc, I kept at 185 or below.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I've found that with a bone stock cooling system, simply wiring both the AC and the radiator fans to be on all the time keeps the temps perfectly in check the entire time even on 90+ degree days... after 3 hard runs I had to pop the hood to let some heat out, but up until then, never shutting the car off etc, I kept at 185 or below.

That's the way I have my fans set up now. I need to go ahead and hook up my fans to the Haltech. Turf, can you hit my thread up on the E6X, and tell me the pulse settings for the stock radiator fan?

Back on topic!

 

[TurfBurn]

That's the way I have my fans set up now. I need to go ahead and hook up my fans to the Haltech. Turf, can you hit my thread up on the E6X, and tell me the pulse settings for the stock radiator fan?

Back on topic!

Pulse settings? Mine are literally hard wired to the ignition... as soon as that key comes on those fans run and never stop, slow down, or anything..

 

[aMaff]

Pulse settings? Mine are literally hard wired to the ignition... as soon as that key comes on those fans run and never stop, slow down, or anything..

Is that how they come stock?

 

[TurfBurn]

Is that how they come stock?

No, not at all... stock neither fan comes on initially, then the stock ECU turns on the radiator fan at a certain water temp... probably around 160 or so... the AC fan I don't know the full behavior of, but I would guess that it runs continuously when the AC is activated...

You can set things up to run how you want with the Microtech if you choose, but for my purposes and for cooldowns etc I deemed it was best and simplest to hardwire both my fans to simply run anytime the engine could/would be running.

 

[carbonkid]

Thanks for the tips, BT, I think I will be doing this this week. Can you post a picture with the location of where you tapped into the housing? Or at least hijack one of these pics and photoshop an arrow on it? THanks!!

No matter what you do, you will have to disconnect something from the coolant path, so you might as well take the 3 or 4 bolts off the housing that holds the stock coolant sensor and remove it. Then take it to a bench, drill a hole in it and tap it with the correct tap. I did mine right next to the stock sensor this way and it works great. Definatly a cheap way to go, not to mention the right way to do it. You don't worry about shaving's because it is not on the motor when you drill and tap it. You can clean it up before you put it back on and you will have no problems. Screw that ghetto rigging, you then have more clamps to worry about leaking.

 

[Bigg Tim]

Thanks for the tips, BT, I think I will be doing this this week. Can you post a picture with the location of where you tapped into the housing? Or at least hijack one of these pics and photoshop an arrow on it? THanks!!

I'll get you some later tonight.

 

[FL_PR5]

yea i've been sitting on this since i am waiting on my pod pillar from horsepowerfreaks now. but i've only ran my wires through the firewall as of now. i'm placing the sensor most likely in on wed. when the pods come in. so i'll make a new thread with pics so you can see and also post some here. i'm doing the T fitting as below in the pics.

 

[carbonkid]

Thanks!!

I'll get you some later tonight.

 

[LinuxRacr]

No, not at all... stock neither fan comes on initially, then the stock ECU turns on the radiator fan at a certain water temp... probably around 160 or so... the AC fan I don't know the full behavior of, but I would guess that it runs continuously when the AC is activated...

You can set things up to run how you want with the Microtech if you choose, but for my purposes and for cooldowns etc I deemed it was best and simplest to hardwire both my fans to simply run anytime the engine could/would be running.

The stock radiator fan comes on at 207 F, and goes off under 200 F! I've documented this. I want to hook mine up to the Haltech to come on around 180-185 F.

 

[TurfBurn]

Wow... I'm shocked it comes on so high... I usually start freaking out if my water temps get that high...

 

[Brian MP5T]

The stock radiator fan comes on at 207 F, and goes off under 200 F! I've documented this. I want to hook mine up to the Haltech to come on around 180-185 F.

Why not get a diferent thermostat switch wired directly to a relay that works the fans..