Unichip - trying to figure out switches (mine aren't labeled)

[Mark94]

I recently received my Unichip and FBI14 and were going to install it but since my switches aren't labeled I decided not to try and experiment to find out which is which. I emailed Unichip at the address that is on their site but I haven't heard anything in a few days so I turn to you for help before I call them

Basically, I have two switches that are shrink wrapped together with an LED above one of the switches and another switch that is shrink wrapped by itself with an LED above it also. Did anyone receive their Unichip with the switches shrink wrapped like I described and if so what switch is what? FBI's Unichip switches are labeled "Boost", "Map" and "Unichip". His switches and wiring are totally different from mine so I can't use his a reference. All three of his switches come out of the same srink wrapped harness and his switches have the built in lights (no external red LED's).

Another question I have is that FBI received a module that was not even programmed for a MazdaSpeed so he had to send it back for reprogramming. When he was talking to Josh, he asked for a number that was on the back of the module printed on a sticker. FBI did not have a number on the back, just a sticker that said MAP C with a blank box. Josh seemed to think that the missing number implied a big problem and like I mentioned, it turned out the Unichip was not even programmed for our cars.

My unit does not have a number on the sitcker and I would like to know if everyone elses has a number on the sticker. If yours does then that would lead me to believe that I have a bad module also and I do not want to install it only to find out it has to be sent back.

Does anyone have Josh's direct email address?

Unichips Quality control seems to be lacking.

Here are two pictures of what I am talking about and thanks for any help!

Mark

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

Well, the one without the led is the ECU Reset switch. I would think that the one that is separate is the boost switch, but I'm not sure. Not sure about the sticker on the back. Let me check...

Yep, you are right. Mine has more numbers/letters, etc. on the sticker. I would tell you what they are, however, I can't see all of them due to the velcro used to hold the module in place.

If you can't get a hold of the folks at Unichip, try PMing JDMSam or HorsePowerFreak or even try calling Corksport for more info. They should all be able to give you some insight, since all of them have a good bit of experience with the Unichip. Where did you buy your Unichip? I would call them first!

 

[speedprotegewi]

the one that is seperate is boost - light on = high boost light off = low boost

the one without the light is the ecu reset
the other one attached to the ecu with the light on it is the map switch, light off = map A light on = mab B

IF you happen to have gotten one like mine the ecu and map switched will be in the wrong spot. ex: mine the map switch is the one without the light above it, but the light comes on above the other switch lol

and if u are worried about testing it, just turn your key to the on position and play with switches without the car running

 

[geomatics_tech]

I recently received my Unichip and FBI14 and were going to install it but since my switches aren't labeled I decided not to try and experiment to find out which is which. I emailed Unichip at the address that is on their site but I haven't heard anything in a few days so I turn to you for help before I call them

Basically, I have two switches that are shrink wrapped together with an LED above one of the switches and another switch that is shrink wrapped by itself with an LED above it also. Did anyone receive their Unichip with the switches shrink wrapped like I described and if so what switch is what? FBI's Unichip switches are labeled "Boost", "Map" and "Unichip". His switches and wiring are totally different from mine so I can't use his a reference. All three of his switches come out of the same srink wrapped harness and his switches have the built in lights (no external red LED's).

Another question I have is that FBI received a module that was not even programmed for a MazdaSpeed so he had to send it back for reprogramming. When he was talking to Josh, he asked for a number that was on the back of the module printed on a sticker. FBI did not have a number on the back, just a sticker that said MAP C with a blank box. Josh seemed to think that the missing number implied a big problem and like I mentioned, it turned out the Unichip was not even programmed for our cars.

My unit does not have a number on the sitcker and I would like to know if everyone elses has a number on the sticker. If yours does then that would lead me to believe that I have a bad module also and I do not want to install it only to find out it has to be sent back.

Does anyone have Josh's direct email address?

Unichips Quality control seems to be lacking.

Here are two pictures of what I am talking about and thanks for any help!

Mark

I have the exact same problem. I talked to Tony at Unichip yesterday (1-866-unichip) and he was very helpfull. THey are sending me a new unichip, with a pre-paid return box to ship my old one back in.

My switches look exaclty the same as yours, and they dont seem to make any difference. The vendor I bought it from has been rather useless through out this ordeal, and if it wasnt for the help of Tony I wouldve returned it for a refund.

Shaun

 

[Mark94]

Thanks for the help everyone!

Shaun, you have the same problem as in the switches are not labeled and your unit does not have the numbers on the back?

Thanks, I'll probably give them a call tomorrow.

Would you mind PM'img me with the vendor that you bought your Unichip from. I'd like to see if it is the same vendor and maybe they got a bad batch of Unichips.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[ChopstickHero]

i like the older Unichip switches with the green LEDs on the switch themselves.

But yeah, one without light is ECU reset, but you want that as ON. i would suggest that you switch them to the Map A and the Low boost. Then
take a drive. Test the switches by process of elimination. To get Map A and Low boost, there should be one switch on and one off. if you get high boost, then try switching one of the switches and test again. Obviously you will need a boost gauge to see how much you are boosting.

 

[cosmo420]

the one that is seperate is boost - light on = high boost light off = low boost

the one without the light is the ecu reset
the other one attached to the ecu with the light on it is the map switch, light off = map A light on = mab B

IF you happen to have gotten one like mine the ecu and map switched will be in the wrong spot. ex: mine the map switch is the one without the light above it, but the light comes on above the other switch lol

and if u are worried about testing it, just turn your key to the on position and play with switches without the car running

mine also came unlabeled as well, as for the switches mine led is also in the wrong switch, but I left it alone and I know the differance anyhow after foolin with it

 

[speedprotegewi]

Would you mind PM'img me with the vendor that you bought your Unichip from. I'd like to see if it is the same vendor and maybe they got a bad batch of Unichips.

Thanks!

Mark

got my unichip from protegegarage, most of my exhaust and tt from HPF. and sometime soon cullen from SU is gonna get some of my business too =P

im not picky who i buy from, just who has the best deal

 

[Mark94]

Just an update.

I finally got through to Josh and he told me the same, the separate switch is the Boost. Of the two that are together, the one with the LED is the map switch and the other is the ECU reset.

He is sending me the labels so I can label it myself.

As for the number not being on the back, he said that is only for custom maps so if the Unichip has the standard programming (universal map A and B) then it should be fine.

I'm still skeptical since others have a number on their unit so I think I'll probably have to remove it to send it back but I'll have to install it to find out.

I appreciate all the help, especially Dirtysouth since you ripped out the carpeting to look at your unit for me.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

Just an update.

I finally got through to Josh and he told me the same, the separate switch is the Boost. Of the two that are together, the one with the LED is the map switch and the other is the ECU reset.

He is sending me the labels so I can label it myself.

As for the number not being on the back, he said that is only for custom maps so if the Unichip has the standard programming (universal map A and B) then it should be fine.

I'm still skeptical since others have a number on their unit so I think I'll probably have to remove it to send it back but I'll have to install it to find out.

I appreciate all the help, especially Dirtysouth since you ripped out the carpeting to look at your unit for me.

Thanks!

Mark

No problem, it was easy to get to. I'm always down to help. If you need anything else, just let me know.

 

[UnNaturalinc]

These switch problems I've been reading about are weird.....

If you call Unichip for any reason, I'd suggest speaking to Josh only.


For those who have not seen it, www.studiosp.net/unichip

 

[BlueBeast22]

You also need to be carefull because when I had my unichip my labels were on but my LED was over the ECU reset switch, and the map A/B switch had no LED over top of it. The boost switch was seperate and worked properly.

 

[Mark94]

Back to the drawing board. I installed it this morning and the Map A/B switch with the LED is always lit no matter what map I have selected.

The other switch in the wrapped pair (ECU or Unichip switch) is in the ON position

The switch that is by itself (Boost control) is not in the ON position because I do not have the boost controller hooked up. I plan to run stock boost for a while and then if I feel like it install my GReddy EBC so I did not hook up the Unichip boost controller.

Since the Map LED is always on no matter what, I think there is a problem plus I took the car out and I feel no difference if I select the map A or B position.

I don't know if I have a problem like BlueBeast and wiring is completely screwed up but that LED never goes off. From what I understand, even if the switches were wired incorrectly, each one of the three switches have a position where the LED would be off.

Guess I'll be talking to Josh again on Monday.

Mark

 

[dirtysouth_msp]

That sucks. The LEDs should turn off. Send that b**** back to Unichip.

 

[Mark94]

Josh said they recently found out that a bunch of MSP chips were sent out with bad switch harnesses and that is my problem. He sent out a new one today.

Hopefully there is nothing wrong with my module also and it is just the switch harness.

Time will tell.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Mark