Trying to hit 250whp, help?

you can, but its hard.
no, its not, unless you have an unlimited budget. people have done it on SSFTC's and unichips. emanage works like junk on the MSP.

for 250whp, you need a 2.5" exhaust all the way back, FMIC, unichip, exhaust mani, 440cc injectors (i think), intake mani would help, EBC, boost gauge, wideband, and a wicked tune. a larger turbo would help considerably, as the GT25 is out of its efficiency range at redline above OEM boost. thats not to say its a bad turbo, its adequate, but youll make more whp on a bigger turbo at the same boost - plain and simple.

all of the above would probably make 250whp @10psi on a GT28rs, assuming you have a good tune, and the knowledge that youre pushing engine limits at 250whp.

sometimes ur answeres seem ignorant to me. how do u figure that the haltech is not worth the extra money over the unichip. i promise the tuning cababilities over the unichip and the hatech are a huge difference and seeing as unichips brand new are only 100 dollars shy of getting the sprint 500 hatech wich is a perfect tuning unit for any protege and at that price its well worth it. if u plan on big power like that u might aswell get the haltech seeing as u can tune it urself along with every other good tuning shop around.
 
uni-chip iswhat like700or somethinglike that?and haltech is 915 howisit not worth it. haltech can betunedby any shop. uni-chip cannot be tuned by any shop. the gt 25 isnt outofit effcienty range look at the flow chart.

u beat me to it.
 
the price went up do 2 the US dollar worth going down. jdm sam has a website but the mods here on 247 banned his url links. either way he's the man to talk to.
 
not tellin me anything i dont know brotha. i know him personally. he is a pretty cool knowledgably guy.
 
Dont mean to thread jack but....

Whats the max boost you guys would run on a ssafc...I just installed mine last month thinking it didnt matter what boost you ran it at.

Running 8-9 now with all bolt on except dp and 440's...coming soon tho. Wanted to go to like 11-12 after that. Is that too much for ssafc
 
ur fine. the only thing wrong with running the ssafc is u cant adjust timing causeing ur egt's to get quite a bit higher.
 
the problem come when you control the air/fuel and not the timing. youcan try and run 13-14psi but the timing will stop/blow the motor. its not pretty i was at a dyno-shop and seen a msp blow up @13 psi because he wasnt able to control timing.
 
with higher boost you want to retard timing correct? someone should start a thread about timing vs amount of boost, cuz this is the first ive heard of this
 
cant you manually retard the timing...I cant say for sure but I swore I read that on here, or is it ecu controlled?

Probably ecu bcuz you need a stand alone or piggy back to change it...I love answering my own s***.
 
sometimes ur answeres seem ignorant to me. how do u figure that the haltech is not worth the extra money over the unichip. i promise the tuning cababilities over the unichip and the hatech are a huge difference and seeing as unichips brand new are only 100 dollars shy of getting the sprint 500 hatech wich is a perfect tuning unit for any protege and at that price its well worth it. if u plan on big power like that u might aswell get the haltech seeing as u can tune it urself along with every other good tuning shop around.
haltech its totally, totally overkill. for 220-250 whp? really?
OK, lets go over this here - unichip is laughably expensive new. ill give you that, but you can get one used for about 300 these days. mail it to sam, pay him, he mails it back, you plug it in and youre done. yeah not quite the same as a dyno tune, but if all youre aiming for is 220-250whp you should be able to cover it.
the haltech install is WAY, WAY more involved. its on the polar opposite end of the difficulty scale vs. the unichip. i dont know everything that goes into it because its nothing i ever had an interest in. fyi, i was planning to go standalone on MSII, and i do know how involved that is.

oh, and 250whp? getting there on the ssftc should be a piece of cake. you can probably get there on the ssafc (personally id do ftc on stock block), but you seemed much more interested in the unichip unit. you can get those even cheaper than unichips - AFC v.2's are like 250 these days. FTC is 450. people run the FTC on built blocks until they max out the 440s, and honestly, thats one of the biggest reasons to change to standalone.

you could take a bone stock MSP and make it hit 230whp for less than youre gonna spend on a haltech. make no mistake, its the best unit you can buy if you have the money, but most of us dont.
how id spend the money: ebay midpipe ($100), FMIC core/pipes + used HKS V1 ($200), CS downpipe ($300?), SSAFC V2 ($275), vac block/boost gauge/wideband/MBC ($225)... total $1100, dyno at probably 225? at 12psi
 
so i heard with unichip you just send it out like you just said, but how can you fine tune it..? cuz mods change afrs all the time, for example 626 intake mani has been said to lean the mixture out by 1
 
you cant. you have to find an authorized tuner to do it. its a pain.

you also should give a lot of thought to the AEM piggyback. its cheaper than the split second but functions almost the same, and support has really picked up over the last year or so. that you can tune at home.
 
for the install with haltech sam has a prewired harness so its plug and play!lmao if you have never used it dont know it till you try it. and the haltech saves you money in the long run. who wants to have their car sit while they mail in their ecu. any 1 who wants to deal with shipping be my guest. ill stick with what i know. stand alones are the best way to make power not a bunch of controllers.
 
I see the OP mentioned being happy with 220WHP on a GT28RS. That's pretty simple. I made 190WHP on only 4psi with a GT28RS
 

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