Trying to hit 250whp, help?

[Ricktalife]

Only downfall with standalone's is passing inspection

 

[yudkib]

how much does sam charge for the standalone + PNP harness?

 

[yudkib]

the gt 25 isnt outofit effcienty range look at the flow chart.

i did, and it definitely is. at OEM boost its runs at like 60% or something - not bad, but for every bit you up the boost, it just gets lower and lower.

 

[Outlawstar98]

how much does sam charge for the standalone + PNP harness?

Ask for quote! He has it listed on his forum I saw it somewhere.

But sprint 500 Prewired and "plug and play" was 1500+

To me worth it.

 

[yudkib]

his whole build is gonna cost 1500!!! how can you POSSIBLY argue that a 1500 dollar EMS is worth it when its more than every other aftermarket part he needs for the car?!?! this isnt a built engine and it sounds like he never wants one.

if you were a doctor and someone came into your office with a headache, would you give them ******* morphine? come on - since when did standalone become the de facto solution to a mild build?! be reasonable.
dude - its your money. if you got 1500 to throw around, you cant beat a prewired haltech. i dont have that. you can get to 230whp on a $275 split second AFC, and push 250whp with a $450 SSFTC. but if you got 1500, by all means, get the haltech.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

I'd agree, a mild piggyback is all that is needed. If you want a standalone for the sake of being standalone, more power to you, but until you're reaching for over about 300hp, there is no point. A piggyback will VERY successfully handle a fully bolt-on'd car up to 250hp. No problem. Is the Unichip absurdly expensive new? Yes. But who the hell is still buying NEW aftermarket parts that don't wear out for an 8 year old car? Buy used. Same goes for the AFC/FTC.

You only really need a standalone if you're forged with a bigger turbo, requiring bigger injectors, and have a laundry list of other engine mods. Until then, a piggyback is EASILY your best bet.

 

[yudkib]

oh - and stock block record is 277whp (rich - 505zoom). every single bolt-on running the MPI tuner, i think it was 12psi on a GT28RS.

 

[shane02pro5]

In your quest for 250whp on stock block you may invest in a knock light and most definately without timing control at 14psi.

I ran 13psi on my bigger IHI vf-22 on stock injectors with a J&S with 2deg midrange (3500-5000rpms) and boost timing retard above 10psi 1deg/psi for a few years going through 2 3rd gears (once at only 10psi) in that time frame.

If I were you and are trying not to build the motor (and possibly blow the tranny) keep the boost down to maybe 12 with all bolt ons. Or plan for a build or part out thread very soon

You have to pay to play especially with this car!!

 

[yudkib]

^everything he said.

 

[ScratchNSniff]

I have the Turbolife FMIC and Steedspeed Exhaust Mani for sale if you are interested...

 

[Wagonbacker9]

nothing like a shamless, totally off topic plug.

 

[squire0311]

its 915 for the haltech + i think 200 or 300 for the harness.

 

[Ricktalife]

well he is the parts ***** after all.

 

[thecrash91]

so let me get this clear, size of turbo or how much air the turbo forces into the engine doesnt matter with timing, its all about the amount of pressure in the manifold? (psi)? so if i am bored with 10 psi on stocker and go to a disco potato (gt28rs) at 10 psi i dont have to worry about timing?

 

[ScratchNSniff]

Lol...just trying to help out the OP...haha...

 

[squire0311]

wow! will the wonders never sease? buy your self a tuners guide for the basics and learn. its the easiest way to understand the how to and the reasons behind it.

 

[shane02pro5]

If your talking about the settings I mentioned...that's just what I used on my old IHI turbo and new set-up with the gt3071 (very similar) and works for me. There would definately be a difference in a smaller turbo??

 

[Wagonbacker9]

so let me get this clear, size of turbo or how much air the turbo forces into the engine doesnt matter with timing, its all about the amount of pressure in the manifold? (psi)? so if i am bored with 10 psi on stocker and go to a disco potato (gt28rs) at 10 psi i dont have to worry about timing?

DEFINITELY NOT.

timing, afrs, and what the compressor map for a given turbo looks like are all variables when it comes to what power levels are safe.

 

[dandan2]

lets put it this way, i was like all u kids one day. i swore to sam my power goals where never gonna be anywhere near where i would need a standalone. he kept trying to talk me into it it. i kept telling him no, i wanted a unichip. so long story short i bought the unichip had a custom map loaded onto it and installed it for maybe 2 months. i spend something like 790 on the unichip, sold it for 350. if i just would wised up in the first place my money woulda been more usefull in the installation of the standalone in the first place. why the hell would u want a unit that everytime u want to up ur boost or change the map u have to mail it. i live next to one of the best unichip tuners around and i still hated the damn thing. ive delt with most scenarios u can have with this car. ran many different setups with different boost levels and the headaches that comes with it. shane prolly knows what im talkin about. lol dont waste ur money. modding and hp is addicting. saving money now will just end up costing u more in the future. trust me get the standalone and a pnp harness so if u have inspection u can return it to stock ecu and tune for the obd2 scan. oh yah, and i promise u i wasnt seeing any where near 240 hp with my unichip tune. the only way u will get those power levels is with a custom dyno tune and atleast 12 to 15 psi.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

then buy the SSAFC, and learn to tune it yourself.

Not all of us want to go nuts on our cars, for many of us, a piggyback is all we'll ever need.

For the record, there are plenty of guys who have hit 200+ with just an IC, intake, exhaust, and a tune, and stock or near stock boost. 250 with a few more boltons, maybe a cam, and a quality tune on 10-12 is achievable.