timing belt tensioner question

[north42g]

Getting ready to do the timing belt/water pump on my 2001 PR5;
Called the local mazda Dealer to get parts, when I asked for the timing belt tensioner there reply was that "they" never replace the tensioner itself, but they do however replace the spring & some thing else on the tensioner.
Has any one heard of this? And do you agree with it?

as a tech, I work on cars every day, so I do know that sometimes there are things that get skipped because they never fail.
I have never done a Timing belt job on the mazda 2.0L engine so I am not familier.

Any one have an opinion on this? Thanks.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

The tensioner has a bearing in it...
The Idler has a bearing in it...


Replace them BOTH.

/Thread Close

 

[north42g]

Then what is this "spring" thing they sold me?

 

[hornsfan10609]

The spring is what sets tension on the belt, it hooks onto the tensioner and to the block. Install it last to avoid stretching it.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

You should get the install manual and read it or let them install it and relax.

 

[north42g]

yeah whatever. i am perfectly relaxed. if YOU don't know the answer then say,,,
'Im sorry, I don't know."
insted of the half assed brush off advice you gave me.
go by a manual....thanks a lot mani thought

 

[Tiajaunatoad]

From what I've read on here most people replace the spring because after it gets alot of miles on it, it will develop some stretch and not set the correct belt tension. I would check the pulley bearings and if they're noisy I would replace them also.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

yeah whatever. i am perfectly relaxed. if YOU don't know the answer then say,,,
'Im sorry, I don't know."
insted of the half assed brush off advice you gave me.
go by a manual....thanks a lot mani thought

He knows the answer

The manual is available for free here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123744855-3rd-Gen-Workshop-Manual-(P5-MSP-MP3-also)

Read it, there's a lot of good stuff in there.

From what I've read on here most people replace the spring because after it gets alot of miles on it, it will develop some stretch and not set the correct belt tension. I would check the pulley bearings and if they're noisy I would replace them also.

If I were you I'd replace the pulleys, I didn't when I changed my timing belt and I regret it. I didn't change them because the Mazda service guys said not to when I was buying the parts, but I could swear I hear something starting to make noise from that side of the engine. Perhaps they don't change those pulleys on their customers' cars because they know that if they fail in the future it's just more money for them...

Also, don't buy the parts from Mazda, they're a huge rip-off. The belt they'll sell you is Gates-brand which can be found for significantly less online (check out rockauto). Often it comes in a kit with new pulleys (like in the pic posted by BRIAN_MP5T).

 

[bazooka joe]

+1

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

yeah whatever. i am perfectly relaxed. if YOU don't know the answer then say,,,
'Im sorry, I don't know."
insted of the half assed brush off advice you gave me.
go by a manual....thanks a lot mani thought

You probably don't know me, but I Do know the answer... I can probably answer any question about the Protege 5 you can dream up.

Link To Truth http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123804006-Mp5t

Sorry but, I thought that it was obvious that the "Tension Pulley" would need to have tension applied to it by something... Probably a spring... which is why I didn't bother to type out the words to tell you why the tension spring was to be installed on the tension pulley.

This isn't meant to be insulting, I am a very frank person and I have no goal other than to help you get the correct answer so please try not to give me attitude when I am actually trying to help you...

It's Counter-productive and will make people want to help you less.

 

[bazooka joe]

brian FTW!

 

[Jordysoso]

The kit in the pic comes with bearings correct?

 

[LE-FLO]

a little advice....don't hate...he knows everything about a MAZDA..Brian ROCKS.. !!!

 

[north42g]

You probably don't know me, but I Do know the answer... I can probably answer any question about the Protege 5 you can dream up.

Link To Truth http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123804006-Mp5t

Sorry but, I thought that it was obvious that the "Tension Pulley" would need to have tension applied to it by something... Probably a spring... which is why I didn't bother to type out the words to tell you why the tension spring was to be installed on the tension pulley.

This isn't meant to be insulting, I am a very frank person and I have no goal other than to help you get the correct answer so please try not to give me attitude when I am actually trying to help you...

It's Counter-productive and will make people want to help you less.

Its all good man.I had no right to get all bent.You're just trying to help. I get it. I apologize. I spend the majority of my day working on GM's, Ford's & Chrysler's. Which I gfuess is my idea of an excuse.
BTW: I got this "thing" about after-market parts...I don't generally care for them at all. Some aren't made as well, some don't fit correctly; Like today at work...I was replaceing the Steering Column Intermidiate shaft on a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer. Our service writer/manager generally gets parts from NAPA. Most of there stuff is...well...ok..errr..good enough. Anyways,The shaft I got was allmost a perfect fit. It was just a tiny bit shorter than the OEM. Which wouldn't of mattered but the bolt for the pinch bolt assembly wouldn't line up just right. which in turn opened the door for a cross threaded bolt. I had to have my partner hold down the shaft w/ a pry bar while I threaded the bolt.
I run into s*** like that all most every day.
oh well...that's my take on aftermarket parts.
I just spent $172.75 on a timing belt, water pump, spring tensioner, the w-pump gskt & the v-cvr gskt.
That's with my 20% discount! I still haven't got the tensioner & pully!!! OEM is always costly.I can't believe the list price for the PR5 w-pump is $112.54!!

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Actually you got a pretty good deal, I paid $500 for the timing belt, accessory belts, water pump and a bunch of gaskets. Hence why I suggested going aftermarket.

 

[M2P503]

Hey Brian. I have just recently had my Timing Belt and Water Pump redone with the Tensioner pulleys but i dont think that there were any Springs and now my Timing Belt is Loose in the Front but tight in the Back i dont want to blow my motor but this Mechanic installed it and i just want it fixed. What can i do to fix it Should i just replace the Spring? Does the Tensioner pulley slide back and forth to adjust the Slack? Ive also herd that when you turn the Crankshaft wheel a certain number of times that can tension it to but i DONT want to take the belt off!

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Hey Brian. I have just recently had my Timing Belt and Water Pump redone with the Tensioner pulleys but i dont think that there were any Springs and now my Timing Belt is Loose in the Front but tight in the Back i dont want to blow my motor but this Mechanic installed it and i just want it fixed. What can i do to fix it Should i just replace the Spring? Does the Tensioner pulley slide back and forth to adjust the Slack? Ive also herd that when you turn the Crankshaft wheel a certain number of times that can tension it to but i DONT want to take the belt off!

It shouldn't be loose anywhere :S

The tensioner pulley is the one closest to the firewall. There's a spring that goes from the tensioner to a spot on the block, you should be able to see it. The spring sets the tension right away, there's no need to turn the crank, it's a very simple mechanism.

If you're concerned, take it back to the mechanic who did the work and show him what you're talking about, he's responsible for doing the job properly.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

^^^ You can't see it, there is a cover over it...





If there is no spring installed then you should try not to run the motor.

If the spring was reused, I strongly suggest getting it replaced. The reason I say that it that the spring is calibrated, many people stretch it a bit and make it weaker. Then the Idler/Tensioner does not hold the way it should.

That is itself isn't very dangerous, it would take a fair level of free play for that belt to jump a tooth, but it is designed to last 100,000 Km.

The upsetting thing is that the cover is not a 5 minute job to remove. You will have to remove the Valve cover, which means Coils and Wires Off... And by the book, the crank pulley has to come off, which means both belts have to come off as well.

You might be ale to remove the 10mm bolts that hold the cover and then rotate the cover to get access to the spring.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD BE MINDFUL THAT THE COVER IS CLOSE TO THE TIMING TEETH. They are strong, but should be treated with care as to not bend them at all.

When the spring is installed, the service manual notes to put a 6mm Allen in the Tensioner and take up as much slack as possible as to not over extend the spring.

make sure that the Rubber Cover is on the spring. It is very much a part of the springs longevity plan.

 

[M2P503]

Thanks Alot Brian unfortunatelly i will tell my Mechanic about that tomorrow and also to put a 6mm Allen in the Tensioner and take up as much slack as possible as to not over extend the spring. Ill let you know how that goes.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

What about doing the cams seals too when doing the timing belt and rest of the stuff?