Synthetic oil

[table5511]

I could be wrong, but my impression is that age does not cause oil to break down, only useage.

 

[Alfissimoint.]

The 'experts' say that there really is no such thing as a 'warped' rotor. The pulsation that people feel isn't a result of a rotor that is warped, but since the feeling presents itself that way, that's what people will say is the issue. The issue is actually deposits (brake material) that end up, in a sense, 'welding' themselves to the rotor and then cause an uneven surface for the brake pad to press against. And I'm no expert on the subject, just sharing what I've heard and read.

And I agree with you on your other point. For the first 600 or 1000 miles, it does make sense to err on the side of caution and be 'gentle' to your new engine....no over-the-top revs, don't idle for extended periods, and don't get on the highway and put the cruise control on 70 and keep it there for 500 miles.

Yes this is 100% true. Warped rotors are kind of a myth. Typically a replacement of the pads to a harder compound and some heavy stops from 65 down to 10mph up to 10 times will remove the deposits and clean the rotor so that they do not feel like they are warped. Way way too many people change perfectly good rotors out for new ones when the old ones just needed the deposits removed. 98% of the time "warped rotors" is just deposits. Very very rarely will rotors warp. Only in heavy duty racing like DTM racing will a warped rotor really happen and even then it is rare.

Use synthetic oil. Up the interval and if you feel the need change the filter with 1 qt of oil halfway. I do this on all my cars, some have gone 300K+ with mobil 1. I use to run a Datsun 280Z (1983) for 15K mile intervals, filter change in between and 1 qt of oil. The thing ran almost to 400K miles with not a SINGLE engine problem, ever!!! Internals looked like new.
If you use non-synthetic change it sooner. But remember to use a REAL full Synthetic. In the US they can call it full synthetic even if it only has 75% synthetic oil in it. The additive package can be all non synthetic therefor making the oil only 75% REAL synthetic. I typically use Motul, Pentosin Lubro-moly oil, Mobil 1 (German Castrol 0W-20,30) cause most of these are grp IV base stocks which are 100% synthetic and also in EU 100% Synthetic has to be just that! As far as filters. Not sure why people think FRAM is bad? Typically it ha nothing to do with actual evidence that they are bad but mainly due to bad rep in the old days of them bursting. Not so true anymore. Use FRAM just choose the better FRAM. FRAM makes a lot of filters for OEM's. Not a big deal. I do not see the point in super expensive filters like K&N or Mobil 1. Paper filter medium can filter just as well as synthetic. I think they are mostly hype and especially when your oil intervals are below 5-7K miles, no need of this kind of filter. Waste of money. I use OEM filters, or WIX and have used FRAM as well. All good. Oil anyl. have never come back dirty or heavy in Silica from using FRAM or OEM. I also don't use K&N air filters. They are garbage! If you want to know why I will show you and tell you why but stick with OEM and change them as needed.

 

[ceric]

I believe it is recommended to change oil every 1/2 year even if the engine has never been run.
The oil does break down over time, just slower at lower temp.

 

[cvandenhaute]

My dad said his car seemed to ride smoother when after it was washed.......LOL!

I know mine does