Switched to 5W-30 from 0W-20

This is always a hard, non-negotiable requirement. The rest you are correct about.

Sorry.. just hasn’t been my experience in nearly 40 years of driving.. never chased latest spec and always had great reliability on my engines. Aggressive service schedules served me well or I just made reliable choices in vehicles with greater tolerances to oil variances
 
Considering the spec includes improved engine cleanliness and protection from low-speed preignition (for example by reducing the calcium in the formula) it is important to just use the latest oil. In fact, there is no reason to ever use old spec oil. There is simply no advantage.
 
I’ve probably been moved along without paying attention to spec with my Amsoil use over the years.

 
Considering the spec includes improved engine cleanliness and protection from low-speed preignition (for example by reducing the calcium in the formula) it is important to just use the latest oil. In fact, there is no reason to ever use old spec oil. There is simply no advantage.
What do you think about the new 0w16 oil that Toyota uses?
Do we expect the new CX5 to require it?
 
My drive to work is 8-10 minutes at 35-40mph. My car won’t warm up at all unless I let it idle for 5 minutes first.
you are ready for 4k oil changes. That is severe usage and long term not so good unless you change oil more frequently.
 
My drive to work is 8-10 minutes at 35-40mph. My car won’t warm up at all unless I let it idle for 5 minutes first.
My drive to work is also 8-10 minutes at 35-40mph.

Both my 2.5T and 2.0 reach the 210 mark on the gauge during that drive and start providing heat when I'm about 1/2 way there. At worst, the heat starts working about 3/4 way there.

Subjectively I remember the 2.5G taking longer to warm up, but I don't have any hard proof.
 
I would think the the turbo cars would have to heat up faster than NA due to turbo heat soak via the liquid cooling.
 
I need to monitor mine via OBD some morning to see how long it takes to get to full operating temp…

I’ve never noticed it to be slow to warm up and is already throwing out some warmth even when the low temp light goes out which isn’t that warm.

I’ve never researched whether different thermostats were being used between models and engines

Side note.. how has fuel dilution been for you with oil? That is a short commute. Do you change your oil at shorter intervals?
 
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Given the frigid temps of 10-20 degrees in the morning, I’m thinking of switching back to 0w-20. Anyone else? Can’t recall Delaware being so cold, but here we are, lows around 10 this week and next.
 
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Given the frigid temps of 10-20 degrees in the morning, I’m thinking of switching back to 0w-20. Anyone else? Can’t recall Delaware being so cold, but here we are, lows around 10 this week and next.
a 5W is perfectly fine for freezing temps.
 
Sorry.. just hasn’t been my experience in nearly 40 years of driving.. never chased latest spec and always had great reliability on my engines. Aggressive service schedules served me well or I just made reliable choices in vehicles with greater tolerances to oil variances

I agree. I don't know if it is nonsense or not, but I do know that oil is oil. It will protect your engine, just change it on time and employ good usage habits. (Etc. no excessive idling, don't run the engine hard and frequently, especially when cold, try to avoid short distance trips, etc.)
 
I agree. I don't know if it is nonsense or not, but I do know that oil is oil. It will protect your engine, just change it on time and employ good usage habits. (Etc. no excessive idling, don't run the engine hard and frequently, especially when cold, try to avoid short distance trips, etc.)
Improving engine cleanliness and preventing LSPI is definitely not nonsense. Large sums of money have gone into R&D to make these advances.
 
Given the frigid temps of 10-20 degrees in the morning, I’m thinking of switching back to 0w-20. Anyone else? Can’t recall Delaware being so cold, but here we are, lows around 10 this week and next.
This is Delaware weather from the 60's.
 
I'm still deciding if I'm going to move to 5W-30 with my 2.5NA. I ran 0W-20 throughout my ownership of my 2019 Toyota C-HR until it was totaled. The car had 185,000 miles on it. Didn't burn any oil. No varnish or build up I could tell based on looking down the oil fill cap and at the dip stick. Also no unusual noises from the engine. I was contemplating pulling the valve cover at some point but that's moot now. I did 10,000 mile oil change intervals on that car. I felt comfortable doing that because of how much of the mileage I put on the car was due to long distances and many of it was at higher speeds.

As to getting up to operating temps, with my 2013 BMW 135i, there is an oil temp gauge. I don't know if the 2.5Ts have an oil temp gauge. For turbo engines, it's more important to monitor the oil temp over coolant temp. The N55 motor in my 135i takes 6.5 qts of oil and has an external oil cooler. It takes at least 15 minutes or so of light driving before the oil temp approaches any temp that I would consider safe to apply more than part throttle. I would say at least 20 minutes.

In regards to Toyota, I was considering a Corolla Cross before settling on the CX-5. Because I'm a gear head/DIYer, I always poke around the engine bay. I was surprised to see a sticker stating the recommended oil for that 2026 Corolla Cross is 0W-8.

An option I'm considering for my CX-5 is possibly 5W-20 based on the videos Lake Speed has put out. He said the base oil has more stability if the two viscosity numbers are closer together.
 
An option I'm considering for my CX-5 is possibly 5W-20 based on the videos Lake Speed has put out. He said the base oil has more stability if the two viscosity numbers are closer together.
That just means as the additives degrade and/or the oil shears, the viscosity drop would be less. But that's usually not an issue unless you're really stretching the intervals.
 
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